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My projected system setup

Old Feb 21, 2008 | 01:05 PM
  #11  
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Where did you find the Polk MMC6500's for $112? The best price I can find them for is $179.99

I agree with what others said, go with a 12 instead of a 10 and get a 4 channel amp, bridging two of the channels with the sub. I'm using an older e4300 JL audio 4 channel amp with a single 10w1 in a Wlaurent side mount box, with the Polk component set, for the money I think it will be a hard system to beat. Alpine 9885 headunit, with ipod cable and DCI
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 01:08 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by audiophile,Feb 21 2008, 02:05 PM
Where did you find the Polk MMC6500's for $112? The best price I can find them for is $179.99

I agree with what others said, go with a 12 instead of a 10 and get a 4 channel amp, bridging two of the channels with the sub. I'm using an older e4300 JL audio 4 channel amp with a single 10w1 in a Wlaurent side mount box, with the Polk component set, for the money I think it will be a hard system to beat. Alpine 9885 headunit, with ipod cable and DCI
Good setup
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #13  
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Good input here, over the weekend im going to be researching and demoing stuff to hopefully have a completed list come monday-tuesday.
My price on the polk's is through a friend who works for a retail store. I did find them for around 130-140 via froogle and amazon i think.
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 02:11 PM
  #14  
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If you can afford it and sound quality is of concern to you, I recommend going with separate amps for your door speakers and sub.

Differences in the circuitry between Class A/B (highs/mids) and Class D (mono/sub) affect how accurately sound is reproduced through the amp (due to freqs involved).

Class D amps will produce more power in a smaller footprint, but won't have the same fidelity across a wide range that a Class A/B will have. Subs require a freq range of, perhaps, 100-150Hz. Highs/mids require a freq range of 22,000+ Hz.

If you can't afford it right now, go with the 4-chan as has been suggested, and look into a dedicated Class D amp for your sub in the future.
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 02:19 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by FNR32,Feb 20 2008, 11:33 AM
I was just about to post up and ask about this. Good info! Im re thinking my whole system now. Ive gotten great input in this thread and via PM.

*My only question now is which sub to get (4ohm or 2ohm) and which if any of WLaurents enclosures would be best. The sub will be an Alpine Type R. I want the best sound quality, not so much worried about space savings at the moment.
When shopping for a sub, take into account what amp you'll be using.

One nice feature of the JL 500/1v2 is that it's 500W output for any load between 2ohms and 8ohms, so the configuration of the Sub doesn't matter.


My IDQ 12 is a dual 4ohm that I chose to wire as a 2ohm load. While the 500/1 will put 500W into 8ohms and be more stable, it has to work harder to do it, thus increasing draw and heat and decreasing life expectancy of the amp.

Ideally, I would have bought the IDQ with dual 2ohm voice coils so I could wire it to be a 4ohm load. It allows the amplifier to be more stable than a 2ohm load, and not work as hard as for an 8ohm load.
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 06:15 PM
  #16  
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I have the DEH-P7900BT and a similar system in my S but with a JL 300/2 powering ADS components.

I'm happy with the sound quality, and the bluetooth works great with my RAZR for taking calls while driving. The ipod integration is only ok however. It's functional, but not nearly as user friendly as it should be.
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