Need help deciding
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Los Angeles
Thank you for all your suggestions and opinions. They were really helpful and I appreciate it!
I'm going to look more into these Massive Audio components.
Let me clarify... for example, it would be perfectly okay to power 125 RMS(continuous) speakers with an amp that has like... 180 watts RMX x 2 @ 4 ohms?
I'm going to look more into these Massive Audio components.
Let me clarify... for example, it would be perfectly okay to power 125 RMS(continuous) speakers with an amp that has like... 180 watts RMX x 2 @ 4 ohms?
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,710
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From: La Jolla, Ca
Yep, no problem at all. I would recommend you check out DIYMA and search for Massive Audio CK6 Version 5. If they can be mounted as a coaxial (Which I believe they can), that will probably be your best bet in regard to best sound with the simplest installation.
In regard to having additional power on tap, I have a 600 watt amplifier running my 300 watt rated subwoofer and a 180 watt per channel amplifier running my 100 or 150 watt rated (Can't remember) components and after listening at moderate levels, my amps are barely warm, this even in the enclosed area of the spare tire mount.
When you allow yourself headroom, you won't need to worry about your amplifier taking a break because it's too hot or prematurely fails because it is operating as if it's on a nice jog (Well within it' limits).
Also keep in mind that the additional available power will allow you to listen to your music clearly with the windows and top down. I can turn my speakers up loud enough with the windows down to make my ears ring for hours (Not that I do, just an example).
Good luck, and enjoy!
In regard to having additional power on tap, I have a 600 watt amplifier running my 300 watt rated subwoofer and a 180 watt per channel amplifier running my 100 or 150 watt rated (Can't remember) components and after listening at moderate levels, my amps are barely warm, this even in the enclosed area of the spare tire mount.
When you allow yourself headroom, you won't need to worry about your amplifier taking a break because it's too hot or prematurely fails because it is operating as if it's on a nice jog (Well within it' limits).
Also keep in mind that the additional available power will allow you to listen to your music clearly with the windows and top down. I can turn my speakers up loud enough with the windows down to make my ears ring for hours (Not that I do, just an example).
Good luck, and enjoy!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Yep, no problem at all. I would recommend you check out DIYMA and search for Massive Audio CK6 Version 5. If they can be mounted as a coaxial (Which I believe they can), that will probably be your best bet in regard to best sound with the simplest installation.
In regard to having additional power on tap, I have a 600 watt amplifier running my 300 watt rated subwoofer and a 180 watt per channel amplifier running my 100 or 150 watt rated (Can't remember) components and after listening at moderate levels, my amps are barely warm, this even in the enclosed area of the spare tire mount.
When you allow yourself headroom, you won't need to worry about your amplifier taking a break because it's too hot or prematurely fails because it is operating as if it's on a nice jog (Well within it' limits).
Also keep in mind that the additional available power will allow you to listen to your music clearly with the windows and top down. I can turn my speakers up loud enough with the windows down to make my ears ring for hours (Not that I do, just an example).
Good luck, and enjoy!
In regard to having additional power on tap, I have a 600 watt amplifier running my 300 watt rated subwoofer and a 180 watt per channel amplifier running my 100 or 150 watt rated (Can't remember) components and after listening at moderate levels, my amps are barely warm, this even in the enclosed area of the spare tire mount.
When you allow yourself headroom, you won't need to worry about your amplifier taking a break because it's too hot or prematurely fails because it is operating as if it's on a nice jog (Well within it' limits).
Also keep in mind that the additional available power will allow you to listen to your music clearly with the windows and top down. I can turn my speakers up loud enough with the windows down to make my ears ring for hours (Not that I do, just an example).
Good luck, and enjoy!
What do you mean by mounted as a coaxial? I plan on having the head unit and speakers installed by a professional. I don't want to take any risks.
Thanks for clarifying the amplifier stuff for me. So, the only thing you should ever be worried about is under powering your speakers?
I also read about the CK6s and some people are complaining that the tweeters are far too harsh. Even at -3 db. What can I do to avoid this? What if I only want to use the woofers?
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: La Jolla, Ca
Yes, that is the Website.
The older, version 4 CK6 models had the harsh tweeter. The tweeters have been better attenuated on the V5. To combat the harshness, you mount the tweeter on top of the woofer cone (Like a coaxial speaker). Tweeters mounted closer to the woofer will not sound as loud because the sound will reach your ears simultaneously to the sound emitted by the woofer. When the tweeters are mounted closer to your ears such as high on the door panel, this sound reaches your ears prior to the woofer which tends to augment the harshness. Factory speaker locations are almost always sub-par.
Since you will not be running active, and because you probably don't want to tinker with the best positioning of the tweeters in your car, it's probably best to mount them in the coaxial configuration. It takes a lot of testing whether running actively or passively to get the tweeters to sound just right in the S2k.
The older, version 4 CK6 models had the harsh tweeter. The tweeters have been better attenuated on the V5. To combat the harshness, you mount the tweeter on top of the woofer cone (Like a coaxial speaker). Tweeters mounted closer to the woofer will not sound as loud because the sound will reach your ears simultaneously to the sound emitted by the woofer. When the tweeters are mounted closer to your ears such as high on the door panel, this sound reaches your ears prior to the woofer which tends to augment the harshness. Factory speaker locations are almost always sub-par.
Since you will not be running active, and because you probably don't want to tinker with the best positioning of the tweeters in your car, it's probably best to mount them in the coaxial configuration. It takes a lot of testing whether running actively or passively to get the tweeters to sound just right in the S2k.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 37
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From: Los Angeles
Yes, that is the Website.
The older, version 4 CK6 models had the harsh tweeter. The tweeters have been better attenuated on the V5. To combat the harshness, you mount the tweeter on top of the woofer cone (Like a coaxial speaker). Tweeters mounted closer to the woofer will not sound as loud because the sound will reach your ears simultaneously to the sound emitted by the woofer. When the tweeters are mounted closer to your ears such as high on the door panel, this sound reaches your ears prior to the woofer which tends to augment the harshness. Factory speaker locations are almost always sub-par.
Since you will not be running active, and because you probably don't want to tinker with the best positioning of the tweeters in your car, it's probably best to mount them in the coaxial configuration. It takes a lot of testing whether running actively or passively to get the tweeters to sound just right in the S2k.
The older, version 4 CK6 models had the harsh tweeter. The tweeters have been better attenuated on the V5. To combat the harshness, you mount the tweeter on top of the woofer cone (Like a coaxial speaker). Tweeters mounted closer to the woofer will not sound as loud because the sound will reach your ears simultaneously to the sound emitted by the woofer. When the tweeters are mounted closer to your ears such as high on the door panel, this sound reaches your ears prior to the woofer which tends to augment the harshness. Factory speaker locations are almost always sub-par.
Since you will not be running active, and because you probably don't want to tinker with the best positioning of the tweeters in your car, it's probably best to mount them in the coaxial configuration. It takes a lot of testing whether running actively or passively to get the tweeters to sound just right in the S2k.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 37
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From: Los Angeles
Oh, I see. Well, to be honest I think I'm going to end up getting the Polk MM6501s since they're more reputable. But thanks for all the info man. Everything you said was really helpful and I feel like I have a good understanding of everything now. I appreciate it!
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