Ever since seeing Darkknight's tiny Boston G5 sub enclousure he build for a customer I have been thinking about getting one.

I was wondering if anyone has had any expericnce with the Passive radiator they offer (or any other brand for that matter). I am fairly good with fiberglassing so I could build a box to house the duo, but my concern is phase canceling.

If I were to install the speaker and the radiator on the same plane, they would be moving in oposite directions. If I were to do this with two speakers I would get a bass loss, but is it different since the raditor has no motor structure?

I have built many boxes for my other vehicles, and have always like bandpass or a properly ported set-up, but am reverting back to a sealed set-up do to the size constraints in the S.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Paul

 

You can place them on the same plane with no problems at all. A passive radiator uses the changes in air pressure inside the enclosure to move the cone and supplement the bass output. These are designed to work with the G5 subs hand & hand. There are many different way to mount them but in an S2k there's really only one option given the trunk space.
Basically your bass will be louder

 

Think of a passive radiator as a tuned-port design and you'll be fine. The difference is that in a tuned port the mass of the "radiator" is the volume of air in the port. In a passive radiator design the air mass is replaced with a cone mass (and suspension).

 

Not necessarily. If you build a box similar to the one you build, you can have it firing sideways (under the beauty board). It will be more muffled, but should act similar to a down-firing sub. At least I think this would work.....as there should be some space between the side wall of the box and the side of the tool well.

John

 

Damn you people like a lot of bass.

Im getting old.

 

This is one set up I was looking into doing before I went hardcore and but the subs in the drop top area.


Make a inverted truncated pyramid parallel band pass enclosure.

There should be a slot port that that goes all the way around the box so it look like the box is floating in the tool area. The main driver is installed on the bottom baffle with the magnet facing down and exterior to the front main chamber. The passive radiator would be installed in the top. This would give the impression that the box is a single driver slot/vented enclosure. The box would be mapped on a box building program like leap or bass box pro as a parallel band pass. Your rear chamber vent volume would be area of the vent( perimeter vent) X the average length. Your front port would be mapped by selecting a port volume that has the volume of air that has the same mass as the passive radiator.

Hope this did not confuse anyone.

I might still do this to supplement my current install as I have been unable to fully isolate the back wave from the front wave.

 

Thanks for all the input. I wish it was warmer here in Wisconsin so I could start fiberglassing. I am probably going to angle them about 30 degrees forward, and 30 degrees to either side of the car. I am thinking that since the radiator is only 3" deep I can get them nice and tight together in the tool well.

Thanks