Power Window Woes - Help
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Power Window Woes - Help
I put Focal splits in a few weeks back. Worked on the amp install over the long weekend and almost got it complete. Get in the car to drive it today and the passenger window won't go up. Did a bunch of searching here but nothing seemed to fit my problem. It did this to me last week once, but then started working again. Driver side has always had the regulator problem where auto doesn't work, I can live with that. Here's a summary of my new passenger window problem.
- I checked the master override switch
- I checked the master override switch (again)
- Passenger side switch was burned out when I got the car (literally, I disassembled it), but for $80 I figured the driver control was good enough for now. Until now, the pass. window still worked from the master so I wasn't too concerned (again, until now).
- I hear the pass. relay click when using the master to try and roll it down. I also conf'd 12V at the two wires going the pass. window motor
- When trying to roll it up, however, no click. And no -12V at the motor.
I assume this last point is where my problem lies. I would guess those 2 wires to the motor do it all, just swapping voltage to make it spin the other way - haven't completely disassembled door just yet to see if there are a couple wires hiding. If so, what do you folks suggest?
I've also slapped a meter on the passenger switch (5 wires on 6-pin connector going into the switch), while activating the window from the driver's side (side that was working before). Here are those results:
.......Neutral....Down......Up
#1.......x...........x...........x
#2.......-............-...........-
#3......+12......+12........-12
#4........0...........0.........-12
#5......+12......+12..........0
#6......+12.........0............0
#1 below is the red/blue all by itself (other 4 are together). I measured off this one.
"Neutral" is with car on but no up/dn selected. just at rest.
So the above results would tell me that:
a) the master override is NOT on (or is it off? whatever...)
b) what's coming in/out of the blown passenger switch's small PCB is still OK (even though the switch itself is shot)
c) the motor isn't being told to go up (no 12V at the wire)
d) all above would make me think it's a relay problem
Any ideas as to what the problem is? Now that I've said all that, I bought the Autoloc window devices when doing the audio install - thinking that I'd do it then just as a precaution. The former took to long, so the latter didn't get done, now I'm paying the price for procrasinating... If there's a hot wire fix using those I could give it a whirl. I'm guessing I've got a shot relay, but thought I'd ask the experts. Any way to confirm if that's the case? Thanks for any help!
-e
- I checked the master override switch
- I checked the master override switch (again)
- Passenger side switch was burned out when I got the car (literally, I disassembled it), but for $80 I figured the driver control was good enough for now. Until now, the pass. window still worked from the master so I wasn't too concerned (again, until now).
- I hear the pass. relay click when using the master to try and roll it down. I also conf'd 12V at the two wires going the pass. window motor
- When trying to roll it up, however, no click. And no -12V at the motor.
I assume this last point is where my problem lies. I would guess those 2 wires to the motor do it all, just swapping voltage to make it spin the other way - haven't completely disassembled door just yet to see if there are a couple wires hiding. If so, what do you folks suggest?
I've also slapped a meter on the passenger switch (5 wires on 6-pin connector going into the switch), while activating the window from the driver's side (side that was working before). Here are those results:
.......Neutral....Down......Up
#1.......x...........x...........x
#2.......-............-...........-
#3......+12......+12........-12
#4........0...........0.........-12
#5......+12......+12..........0
#6......+12.........0............0
#1 below is the red/blue all by itself (other 4 are together). I measured off this one.
"Neutral" is with car on but no up/dn selected. just at rest.
So the above results would tell me that:
a) the master override is NOT on (or is it off? whatever...)
b) what's coming in/out of the blown passenger switch's small PCB is still OK (even though the switch itself is shot)
c) the motor isn't being told to go up (no 12V at the wire)
d) all above would make me think it's a relay problem
Any ideas as to what the problem is? Now that I've said all that, I bought the Autoloc window devices when doing the audio install - thinking that I'd do it then just as a precaution. The former took to long, so the latter didn't get done, now I'm paying the price for procrasinating... If there's a hot wire fix using those I could give it a whirl. I'm guessing I've got a shot relay, but thought I'd ask the experts. Any way to confirm if that's the case? Thanks for any help!
-e
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 59
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well, i figured it out. tore out the burned up switch and heard something rattling internally. scraped away the burned up goodness and one of the internal contacts fell out!! it's working again but lesson learned. don't be a cheap a** and buy the $80 frickin' replacement from the dealer.
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