Problem running a radar detector and an amp off the 12v accessory outlet?
To all you do-it-yourself amp installers,
I plan to install my amp this upcoming weekend, and I am a little confused on what to do. My major concern is how to turn the amp on since the s2k head unit doesn't have a dedicated turn-on. I have read that I can use the 12v accessory outlet to do this, but I am unsure of how to splice into the wire? Can anyone help me with these problems?
1. What color is the 12v accessory outlet wire?
2. How do you properly splice into it and how do you connect it?
3. If I use the 12v accessory outlet wire to turn on my amp, will I have problems running my radar detector and the amp at the same time?
Thank you in advance for the advice,
Fish
I plan to install my amp this upcoming weekend, and I am a little confused on what to do. My major concern is how to turn the amp on since the s2k head unit doesn't have a dedicated turn-on. I have read that I can use the 12v accessory outlet to do this, but I am unsure of how to splice into the wire? Can anyone help me with these problems?
1. What color is the 12v accessory outlet wire?
2. How do you properly splice into it and how do you connect it?
3. If I use the 12v accessory outlet wire to turn on my amp, will I have problems running my radar detector and the amp at the same time?
Thank you in advance for the advice,
Fish
There is a wire coming out of the factory harness that has power when the key is turned to the on position, which is what you want for your amp. I don't remember which wire it was. I used a voltmeter and looked for voltage at each pinout to figure out which wire to use. Hopefully someone else knows which wire it is and will post it.
I think the stock harness has a remote wire that you're supposed to use. All I know is that the aftermarket harness that plugs into the stock wiring has a female connector for the 12v remote wire for amps.
Strike - You should use the remote wire from the head unit for your amp. Otherwise you should install a relay. You probably hear a popping sound through your speakers when you start your car, and this is why.
If you use the "always on" lead (which is wired to the battery) you will always draw from the battery even when the car is off. This is not good and with enough components the parasitic loss will kill your battery. That or drain it to the point your car won't start one day. In addition, these taps should be fused. You can buy automotive fuses at a car parts store for a buck and change.
I would strongly recommend buying a female harness for your stereo. All of the leads will be labeled. In addition, all of the leads will be crimp ready. Problem solved for under $20. Wire the deck and components to the switched positive lead along with proper fuses. In addition, open the fuse box and replace the stock fuse for the stereo with a fuse with an amp rating equal to all of the components on the wire. If deck=5amp, detector=5amp. Install a 10amp fuse.
If you use the "always on" lead (which is wired to the battery) you will always draw from the battery even when the car is off. This is not good and with enough components the parasitic loss will kill your battery. That or drain it to the point your car won't start one day. In addition, these taps should be fused. You can buy automotive fuses at a car parts store for a buck and change.
I would strongly recommend buying a female harness for your stereo. All of the leads will be labeled. In addition, all of the leads will be crimp ready. Problem solved for under $20. Wire the deck and components to the switched positive lead along with proper fuses. In addition, open the fuse box and replace the stock fuse for the stereo with a fuse with an amp rating equal to all of the components on the wire. If deck=5amp, detector=5amp. Install a 10amp fuse.
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DJ Qube
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Jun 2, 2001 10:34 PM






