Rewiring, no bueno... but better than crappy wiring, that's for sure.

As to some math you could work off of, I'll quote a post of mine in a different thread:

[QUOTE=ace123,Dec 15 2009, 02:42 PM].... I'll try to explain octaves and the crossover parameters:

Filters are shown in the form:
Decibels down @ start frequency / octave change
Ideal LP = low passes, high gets attenuated/reduced, no change at the crossover point
Ideal HP = high passes, low "

 

Alright, I looked through the manual, and can't find anything about the slope, so I think the slope is determined by my amps at this point, not my headunit.

For the crossover points on the headunit, I have them currently turned off so I think it's all about setting my crossover points on the amps at this point, and not the headunit.

I've got all my speakers disconnected, so I'm going to re-check my gains tonight, and then maybe try to adjust my crossover points, since I have all the panels in my trunk pulled out (Tucking all my wires and apply more sound deadener).

Here is the breakdown of my Resistance though my speakers + speaker wire, and the voltage I got after adjusting my gain.

Resistance:
Sub: 1.5 Ohms
Left Channel: 3.6 Ohms
Right Channel: 3.5 Ohms

Voltage from Amp:
Sub: 38.7 Volts AC (using a 60 Hz tone) (Gain Adjusted to give 1000W)
Left Channel: 6.57 (using a 1k Hz tone) (Gain unadjusted)
Right Channel: 6.63 (using a 1k Hz tone) (Gain unadjusted)

According to 12volt's calculator, I'm running WAY under voltage to the components. They claim to be 120WRMS (60W per channel). I should be running at 14.5 volts for 60W per channel, using 3.5 ohms, and 60 Watts of power.

(Edit: Just rechecked it, and the voltage was on the wrong scale. For some reason it was reading 10 volts at 1.0, but last night was reading 38.7 volts as 37.8 automatically. I picked a set scale, and got 3.87 volts for my sub, and then checked it against the component sub, and set the component amp at 1.45, so basically it's a scale of 10.) I haven't hooked my speakers up yet, cause I'm still in the process of tucking my wires. It's coming out pretty clean and is easier than I thought it was going to be. My ground cable is kinda long though (three feet-ish. Runs from center of tool well, to back wall, wraps around and goes under the carpet, and then to the strut grounding post, but it's also 4 ga, so it should be more than enough current flow for it's purpose).

I set my volume at -25 db (It's a scale from -78 to 0), and did my gain adjustments using a 1k Hz tone for the components, and a 63 Hz tone for my sub. I have the settings on my component amp set to:

HPF:
Range x1
(30-300 Hz) Set to 120~ Hz

HPF-Full-LPF: Set on HPF

LPF: (Don't think this will matter, since I have it switched to HPF)
Range x1
(50-500 Hz): Don't really know, cause I didn't mess with it.

Bass Boost:
Freq: (35-120 Hz) Set to 65~ Hz
Q: (0-18 DB) Set to 0

In the process of taking out the soft top tray right now. Going to look online for some shallow mount port tubes (If they exist).

Going to keep tucking my wires tonight, and get everything hopefully put back and tidied up. Got some pictures I need to upload. I'll probably leave the left side of the trunk liner off, so I can adjust the settings without having to mess with everything. The 4-meter RCA cables BARELY reach, so I'm going to leave them in, instead of getting the 6 meters. Sorry for the .

 

Can't tune with a multimeter.

Tuning is about what sounds right to you. Not what a multimeter says.

 

Alright. So, I think I finally got everything done. Took my like 6 days, but I'm there. I'd post the pictures up tonight, but I still have to install some panels, and I'm dead tired.

Got it so it blends smoothly between my woofers and sub. Took a lot of adjusting, but I think I got everything right.

One bad thing is I thought I blew my sub.... And then I noticed when I push upwards on the bottom of my sub box, it stops clicking.... Any pressure applied to the bottom, stops the clicking noise, so I'm wondering if the wire I have connecting two of the terminals is vibrating off the bottom of the box, so I'm going to have to take that apart, and apply some sound deadener to the inside of the box, see what that does, and/or make the wire shorter.

Still need to take my doors apart. I hear the covers on the crossover vibrating. Need to figure out a way to stop that...

Still haven't fixed the passenger grommet...

Going to apply more sound deadener to the doors. I've got like 10-15 sheets left. Might aswell use it. Going to deaden the inner skin of the door this time, since the outer skin is done.

Anyway to keep the trunk springs from vibrating?

Took the soft top tray out. Make a big difference. It was a pita getting those 4 back white clips undone though. I thought they popped out, not slid out. Going to try and find some ports online to port it, and then put it back in. Going to do them off to the side, so they don't scratch the glass.

I don't really know what I'm saying anymore. My brain is pretty fried. Any questions/comments feel free to say/ask. Thanks for the help guys.

What do you guys use to seal your sub to your sub box? Also, is there any certain type of screw to seal around the screws?? Mine's leaking air around the basket, but it's got a rubber gasket around the entire thing, so I'm not sure what to do. Any recommendations? going to e-mail SSA today hopefully.

 

What makes you think you blew the sub?

With a leaky enclosure, I wouldn't be surprised if you blew your sub and had trouble getting the sound you were looking for.

To seal the enclosure, there are a few options depending on the material the box is constructed of. A continuous solid bead of silicone caulk around all seams (inside) works. You should have some foam window insulation from Home Depot/Lowe's to seal the woofer to the enclosure.

Just remember that all that sound deadening you're adding "just because" adds weight to what was designed to be a light (ish) nimble car... And it's not something that you can easily remove.

 

I e-mailed SSA, and they said the knocking is from the air leak.

Not too sure what you mean by foam window insulation, but I'll look. The guy at SSA said the rubber gasket on the speaker should suffice. Need to seal around my wire coming into the box too.

I thought I blew my sub, because it was knocking. And then I realized when I apply pressure, the knocking stopped. The knocking/vibrating sound is coming from the bottom side of the sub box, where the wire connecting the terminals of my voice coil runs.

 

Hmm, so, did you build the box or it was sold used to the OP?

If you built it, why wasn't it built with a properly sealed pass through for the speaker wires? I mean, a quality sealed enclosure should, well, seal. The consumer shouldn't have to worry about silicone to seal up holes.

And, if you cared to read the thread (or even the post prior to yours), you'd see that the OP states the sub does have a rubber gasket that should properly seal the sub. I can attest that those gaskets are sometimes tricky.

OP: when you screw the sub in, do you go in order around the outside (i.e. 12, 1:30, 3, 4:30, 6, etc) or do you cross-tighten (i.e. 12, 6, 3, 9, 1:30, 7:30, 4:30, 9:30) ?

 

I did a star pattern for the screws. I got some poly fill,and some different screw I'm going to try. Also got some silicon for around the hole I drilled for the speaker wire, going to check the wire connecting the bridged terminals, and going to try and see if I can get it to seal better.

 

I wouldn't mess with poly fill unless you're looking at the enclosure being too small for the sub's requirements.

 

The Co-pres of SSA recommended I put four or so handlefulls in the box, to help give the sub a better working area.