Question about what Sub to get?
That amp is pretty much the 4-ch version of my current amp. Good amp. You will want to run the door speakers off Channels 1 and 2 and bridge channels 3 and 4 for the sub. You will need either a Dual Voice Coil (DVC) 2-ohm sub, or a Single Voice Coil (SVC) 40ohm sub in order to get the most out of the amp without blowing it. I am currently running a Clarion SW10x sub. It is an SVC 4-ohm sub. Pretty affordable at ~$60. Can handle 300WRMS, so power is not an issue. It provides good overall response, but the low end is not all that great. More of an SQ sub. Also it does not require much volume for the box.
I will be selling this sub for $40 + shipping in a few weeks, if you are willing to wait. I need to get my Alphasonik first (they are backordered now).
John
I will be selling this sub for $40 + shipping in a few weeks, if you are willing to wait. I need to get my Alphasonik first (they are backordered now).
John
Easiest way to solve this, Go to your local stereo shop. Tell them how much you can spend and what you want from the system and let them install it.
There is no reason why he cannot install the amp, sub, and speakers. There is a walkthrough in the FAQ section. If he has a question on impediances, crutchfield advisor does a good job of explaining everything, in lehman's terms.
Oh, and that amp can be had for cheaper than $300. I got my amp for $99, granted its only a 2-ch version, but you could just as easily buy 2 and save $100. I think that amp can be had for ~$200.
John
Originally Posted by jwa4378,Dec 16 2005, 02:14 PM
You will want to run the door speakers off Channels 1 and 2 and bridge channels 3 and 4 for the sub. You will need either a Dual Voice Coil (DVC) 2-ohm sub, or a Single Voice Coil (SVC) 4ohm sub in order to get the most out of the amp without blowing it.

I guess you should watch out what you title with, "Easy question easy answer."
just without my drivel of why more current does not mean more power
John
What I was trying to get at with all of that is that amps are generally designed with a 2 Ohm load per channel in mind. So if you bridge two channels you would want a 4 Ohm load since that's what it was designed for and placing a 2 Ohm load on the bridge will lead to more current but may not necessarily be louder (i.e. more power). I showed how you could have a lower impedance speaker that isn't as loud as a higher impedance one. So you could very well lose on both fronts by generating more heat (from the higher current) and making less noise (from an unbalanced load), so lower impedance is not always better. Matching the loads is best, which is what you did.
Actually, the lower impediance would lead to greater power, but only for a SHORT time, until the amp fried itself. Impediance (i belive) is inversely related to power. Higher impediance = less power. You can hook a DVC 2-ohm sub and wire it for a 1-ohm load and hook it to a 4-ohm stable amp. The amp should produce more power than it would at 4-ohms, but would fry itself pretty damn quick.
Hence why a 4-ohm stable amp can accept an 8-ohm load and still work (just at dimished output). It works the other way as well, but is detrimental to the amp circuitry. MacGyver or Modifry could explain it a LOT more technical than I understand, but from what I gather, lower impediance does mean more power.
I agree that matching loads is better, unless the amp is designed to do otherwise. Some JL amps you can run the channels 1 and 2 at standard load (3-ohm I think is JL standard) and bridge the other channels for a 1.5-ohm load. I depends on what you are looking for. If you want more bass (or a more powerful bridged channel) it can be good. I always say that its better to over amp than to under amp. You can always back the gain down, but you cannot always go up.
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
John
Hence why a 4-ohm stable amp can accept an 8-ohm load and still work (just at dimished output). It works the other way as well, but is detrimental to the amp circuitry. MacGyver or Modifry could explain it a LOT more technical than I understand, but from what I gather, lower impediance does mean more power.
I agree that matching loads is better, unless the amp is designed to do otherwise. Some JL amps you can run the channels 1 and 2 at standard load (3-ohm I think is JL standard) and bridge the other channels for a 1.5-ohm load. I depends on what you are looking for. If you want more bass (or a more powerful bridged channel) it can be good. I always say that its better to over amp than to under amp. You can always back the gain down, but you cannot always go up.
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
John
Yes, thanks for all the help! I got everything together and running. It made alot of difference changing the db650 door speaker wires to 12 gauge vs. that crap they send with the speakers. Now I need to figure out how to tune and adjust this thing. I think I need a little more airspace behind the sub. I will post pictures tonight. I had one more question, when disconnecting the door speaker to swap speaker wires, I poked the woofer part of the speaker with my cordless drill. Should I replace or just use it as a High pass and not worry about it? Will it effect the sound?
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