Ready to purchase and istall system
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From: Chattanooga, TN
Ready to purchase and istall system
I spent the past week going to different audio shops listening to all types of speakers, amps, and headunits. Also read a ton of info on the FAQ section and want to thank everyone for the resource.
I am ready to move on these items:
Front Speakers-
BOSTON ACOUSTICS SL60
System Type: 2 Way
Nominal Size: 6 1/2"
Power Handling: 220W Peak, 80W RMS
Frequency Response: 45Hz-20kHz
Impedance: 3 ohm
Sensitivity: 90dB
Mounting Cutout Diameter: 5 1/4"
Mounting Depth: 2 7/16"
DIN Sized Chassis
Rear speakers in S-Pods-
BOSTON ACOUSTICS S50
Nominal Size: 5 1/4"
RMS Power Handling: 55W
Peak Power Handling: 150W
Frequency Response: 60-20kHz
Impedance: 4 ohm
Sensitivity: 92dB
Mounting Depth: 1 7/8"
Head Unit
Alpine CDA-9857
AMP
ALPINE MRP-F450
RMS Continuous Power @ 4 ohm (1% THD): 70Wx4
RMS Continuous Power @ 2 ohm (1% THD): 100Wx4
RMS Continuous Power Bridged @ 4 ohms: 200Wx2
S/N Ratio: 100dBA
Input Impedance: 10k Ohm
Frequency Response: 10Hz-50kHz
Crossover Frequency: 50-400Hz
Input Sensitivity (V@10k ohm): 0.2-4.0V
Subsonic Filter: 15Hz Fixed
Bass EQ: 50Hz, +12dB (CH - 3/4) On/Off
XM Direct Tuner
IPOD directlink
Modifry DCI with harness
I already have 2 WLaurent Trunk Enclosures with 8" subs. This is being powered by a Rockford Fosgate amp. Radio shop people said it was a proper size for the two subs.
Am I sized correctly with the Alpine amp for the Boston speakers?
We measured and I can mount the amps side by side in the spare tire area. I plan on putting the cover back over the spare tire area. Shop felt I would be ok without a fan but I think that I need one. Any suggestions? They were worried about the noise of the fans.
We will be putting in a capcitor and using good cables and wiring.
Thanks for any feedback.
I am ready to move on these items:
Front Speakers-
BOSTON ACOUSTICS SL60
System Type: 2 Way
Nominal Size: 6 1/2"
Power Handling: 220W Peak, 80W RMS
Frequency Response: 45Hz-20kHz
Impedance: 3 ohm
Sensitivity: 90dB
Mounting Cutout Diameter: 5 1/4"
Mounting Depth: 2 7/16"
DIN Sized Chassis
Rear speakers in S-Pods-
BOSTON ACOUSTICS S50
Nominal Size: 5 1/4"
RMS Power Handling: 55W
Peak Power Handling: 150W
Frequency Response: 60-20kHz
Impedance: 4 ohm
Sensitivity: 92dB
Mounting Depth: 1 7/8"
Head Unit
Alpine CDA-9857
AMP
ALPINE MRP-F450
RMS Continuous Power @ 4 ohm (1% THD): 70Wx4
RMS Continuous Power @ 2 ohm (1% THD): 100Wx4
RMS Continuous Power Bridged @ 4 ohms: 200Wx2
S/N Ratio: 100dBA
Input Impedance: 10k Ohm
Frequency Response: 10Hz-50kHz
Crossover Frequency: 50-400Hz
Input Sensitivity (V@10k ohm): 0.2-4.0V
Subsonic Filter: 15Hz Fixed
Bass EQ: 50Hz, +12dB (CH - 3/4) On/Off
XM Direct Tuner
IPOD directlink
Modifry DCI with harness
I already have 2 WLaurent Trunk Enclosures with 8" subs. This is being powered by a Rockford Fosgate amp. Radio shop people said it was a proper size for the two subs.
Am I sized correctly with the Alpine amp for the Boston speakers?
We measured and I can mount the amps side by side in the spare tire area. I plan on putting the cover back over the spare tire area. Shop felt I would be ok without a fan but I think that I need one. Any suggestions? They were worried about the noise of the fans.
We will be putting in a capcitor and using good cables and wiring.
Thanks for any feedback.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Orange, MA
That system sounds great, I LOVE Boston Acoustic speakers the ones I've had always had nice warm sound which I like.
You also can't go wrong with Alpine amps.
I would forget about the cap though, unless you got it for free. Take the cap money and upgrade your battery instead.
You also can't go wrong with Alpine amps.
I would forget about the cap though, unless you got it for free. Take the cap money and upgrade your battery instead.
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From: Chattanooga, TN
Originally Posted by Dcon67,May 5 2006, 03:20 PM
That system sounds great, I LOVE Boston Acoustic speakers the ones I've had always had nice warm sound which I like.
You also can't go wrong with Alpine amps.
I would forget about the cap though, unless you got it for free. Take the cap money and upgrade your battery instead.
You also can't go wrong with Alpine amps.
I would forget about the cap though, unless you got it for free. Take the cap money and upgrade your battery instead.
Understanding that I am an electronics idiot I need you to clarify what you mean by dropping the capacitor and upgrading the battery. People at the shop had me all spooked talking about lights dimming and electrical issues without the capacitor.
Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I have the SL60s, and I would reccomend tuning the crossover so that the tweeters are at their lowest output level. It tends to sound more balanced this way when they are installed in the doors.
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From: Orange, MA
Caps are basically a sale gimmick for audio shops, they do hardly anything to actually help your electrical system since they discharge almost instantly once the voltage drops. Then they actually become a further draw on the system while they re-charge.
Properly used in high end SQ systems, caps are used to smooth out the voltage in a system that already has an adequate charging system.
Here's a quote I found explaining it better than I can:
So essentially if you do have a problem with dimming lights, the correct solution is to fix the problem with the vehicles electrical system....and I'd start that with the battery since thats an easy upgrade, and it's not much more of an expense than a cap.
Properly used in high end SQ systems, caps are used to smooth out the voltage in a system that already has an adequate charging system.
Here's a quote I found explaining it better than I can:
Caps are generally frowned upon because they can only charge up to the same voltage that the battery is charged to by the alternator. Usually the alternator becomes the weak link in the system because during long bass passages it can't maintain it's regulated voltage (usually 13.8~14.4v) at the battery and thus at the Cap and amplifiers once the Cap discharges. Especially when your stock 75~125A amplifier is trying to compete with your vehicles integrated electronics are drawing roughly 75% of that amperage. That only leaves the remaining 25% of that amperage to try and maintain the voltage at your charging system, and car stereo, all while your amps are trying to draw 50+ Amps . Plus, whatever energy the Cap does store, it is discharged as soon as the voltage across it starts to drop. And then it must recharge, and at that point it just becomes an unnecessary load to your alternator. I know that was pretty simplified but you get the drift.
Now does that mean that a cap can't be beneficial? No. A Cap can still be usefull in smoothing the voltage supply to the device it is connected across, ie. your amps. It is the very same reason your amps own internal power supply has those huge caps, to stiffin and filter the rail voltage from sagging. During those long bass passages we've allready determined that it can't stand up very well; but, at normal listening levels, the cap can help smooth out the major dips in your amps supply voltage that normally would have been present at those peak transients, saving on the rest of your charging system. Which is why you can see your lights dim less frequently. The more capacitance you have connected across your amp, the smoother that voltage delivery will be.
Now does that mean that a cap can't be beneficial? No. A Cap can still be usefull in smoothing the voltage supply to the device it is connected across, ie. your amps. It is the very same reason your amps own internal power supply has those huge caps, to stiffin and filter the rail voltage from sagging. During those long bass passages we've allready determined that it can't stand up very well; but, at normal listening levels, the cap can help smooth out the major dips in your amps supply voltage that normally would have been present at those peak transients, saving on the rest of your charging system. Which is why you can see your lights dim less frequently. The more capacitance you have connected across your amp, the smoother that voltage delivery will be.
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From: Chattanooga, TN
Originally Posted by Dcon67,May 5 2006, 08:30 PM
Caps are basically a sale gimmick for audio shops, they do hardly anything to actually help your electrical system since they discharge almost instantly once the voltage drops. Then they actually become a further draw on the system while they re-charge.
Properly used in high end SQ systems, caps are used to smooth out the voltage in a system that already has an adequate charging system.
Here's a quote I found explaining it better than I can:
So essentially if you do have a problem with dimming lights, the correct solution is to fix the problem with the vehicles electrical system....and I'd start that with the battery since thats an easy upgrade, and it's not much more of an expense than a cap.
Properly used in high end SQ systems, caps are used to smooth out the voltage in a system that already has an adequate charging system.
Here's a quote I found explaining it better than I can:
So essentially if you do have a problem with dimming lights, the correct solution is to fix the problem with the vehicles electrical system....and I'd start that with the battery since thats an easy upgrade, and it's not much more of an expense than a cap.
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Caps are basically a sale gimmick for audio shops, they do hardly anything to actually help your electrical system since they discharge almost instantly once the voltage drops. Then they actually become a further draw on the system while they re-charge.
Once again, a cap can be used or not, but there are legit arguements either way. You should also look into a BatCap. I think they are actually considered a second battery for competition purposes......I think they run about $400, though.
Just my $.02. Flame on.
John
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