RSX Sub makes poping sounds
If it's auto-sensing ( as we theorized ) it HAS to draw some current from the battery to power the detection circuit. I would expect this to be in the range of 10-30 milliamps or so, but if your battery is getting weak, it could cause problems after a few days.
Anyone know how many amp-hours a stock battery is rated for? A 30 milliamp current for 72 hours would only be about 2 amp-hours, which isn't much.
BTW, I have seen amplifier failures where they stick in the 'on' position, and drain batteries very quickly.
Anyone know how many amp-hours a stock battery is rated for? A 30 milliamp current for 72 hours would only be about 2 amp-hours, which isn't much.
BTW, I have seen amplifier failures where they stick in the 'on' position, and drain batteries very quickly.
I will know tomorrow. I'm getting a new meter since I can't find the one I had. It was a little radio shack pocket one but wasn't that flexible. I found one on sale that can measure up to 10amps dc and will post my findings....

________
As I said earlier, I don't get these popping sounds like some have mentioned. I was just messing with it and get a very slight thump that is barely detectible when:
Radio volume is turned all the way down, and I turn radio off... slight thump... Turn radio back on(volume still all the way down) slight thump...
Question - If I had an aftermarket stand alone amp hooked straight to the battery and didn't have the remote turn on connected, it probably wouldn't do this? Would it? I'm pretty much convinced this bose unit has this auto-sensing in it and is turning on/off with the radio, evem though there is no turn-on lead connected.

________
As I said earlier, I don't get these popping sounds like some have mentioned. I was just messing with it and get a very slight thump that is barely detectible when:
Radio volume is turned all the way down, and I turn radio off... slight thump... Turn radio back on(volume still all the way down) slight thump...
Question - If I had an aftermarket stand alone amp hooked straight to the battery and didn't have the remote turn on connected, it probably wouldn't do this? Would it? I'm pretty much convinced this bose unit has this auto-sensing in it and is turning on/off with the radio, evem though there is no turn-on lead connected.
Question - If I had an aftermarket stand alone amp hooked straight to the battery and didn't have the remote turn on connected, it probably wouldn't do this? Would it? I'm pretty much convinced this bose unit has this auto-sensing in it and is turning on/off with the radio, evem though there is no turn-on lead connected.

aftermarket amps can be turned on both ways (depending on the model) either by also auto sensing or by detecting an small current from the headunit 'amp turn on lead' or power antenna lead...
does this answer your question?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Jason B
I will know tomorrow. I'm getting a new meter since I can't find the one I had. It was a little radio shack pocket one but wasn't that flexible. I found one on sale that can measure up to 10amps dc and will post my findings....

________
As I said earlier, I don't get these popping sounds like some have mentioned. I was just messing with it and get a very slight thump that is barely detectible when:
Radio volume is turned all the way down, and I turn radio off... slight thump... Turn radio back on(volume still all the way down) slight thump...
I will know tomorrow. I'm getting a new meter since I can't find the one I had. It was a little radio shack pocket one but wasn't that flexible. I found one on sale that can measure up to 10amps dc and will post my findings....

________
As I said earlier, I don't get these popping sounds like some have mentioned. I was just messing with it and get a very slight thump that is barely detectible when:
Radio volume is turned all the way down, and I turn radio off... slight thump... Turn radio back on(volume still all the way down) slight thump...
hrm... i don't think this is killing your battery.
if your meter works like mine, the 200 mA setting represents the max the meter is scaled for. so if you have the meter on the 200 mA, and it shows you 1.0 -- that means you've got a current draw of 1.0 mA. that shouldn't drain your battery...
anyone else want to throw in or have other multi-meter experiences?
to give us a comparison -- try taking the same measurement, but this time w/ the radio/sub turned on.
if your meter works like mine, the 200 mA setting represents the max the meter is scaled for. so if you have the meter on the 200 mA, and it shows you 1.0 -- that means you've got a current draw of 1.0 mA. that shouldn't drain your battery...
anyone else want to throw in or have other multi-meter experiences?
to give us a comparison -- try taking the same measurement, but this time w/ the radio/sub turned on.
i wonder why it showed a 1 on the 200 ma reading... 
but agreed... if on the 10A setting it showed .1, i'm inclined to believe that it is a 100 mA draw. that doesn't seem right.... that will hurt a battery over a reasonably long time period...
doh!
and when you do get a new meter -- take 2 current measurements w/ the radio turned on... one w/ the volume very low (almost barely audible), and the other w/ the volume at normal listening levels.

but agreed... if on the 10A setting it showed .1, i'm inclined to believe that it is a 100 mA draw. that doesn't seem right.... that will hurt a battery over a reasonably long time period...
I didn't do the test with turning the RADIO on yet, since I BLEWthe meter up. I made the mistake of trying to check the battery voltage, without taking it off the AMP setting and putting the probe back. I need to return it and get a new one, hehe.
doh!and when you do get a new meter -- take 2 current measurements w/ the radio turned on... one w/ the volume very low (almost barely audible), and the other w/ the volume at normal listening levels.






