Got my new meter today. Did the test with the car off. 200ma setting, pulling 1.0 like it did.

Turned the radio on, and volume up 2 clicks with music playing and sub faintly kicking, 1.0 again. Tuned it up halfway then is started to pull 4.7-6.0.

So, there is no change for me when it's off, or when the radio is on with volume slightly on....... "

Hmm... So, that 1.0 constant draw will kill my new battery in about a week....

 

ok, so from that info i sounds like you will for sure need a relay switch for the power to the sub or hook it up to a AC on power source.

I currently have it hooked up the the AC On source and it pops when i turn the car on/off. Would a relay make that pop go away?

 

I had mine wire to Power Antenna source and it pops when I turn stereo on and off. If using relay will eliminate this annoying poping sound, I will try it. But, I paid only $30 for it, if this popping can not be killed, then I will live with it.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TR-S2K
I had mine wire to Power Antenna source and it pops when I turn stereo on and off. If using relay will eliminate this annoying poping sound, I will try it. But, I paid only $30 for it, if this popping

 

I don't have any popping, but this may be due to the fact that mine is powered "ON" all the time. I'm now suspecting if you don't have the bose sub hooked up to a remote turn on, or a relay, it will eventualy kill you battery over time with the contant cycling. My case....

 

yes... i'm thinking you're correct, that it isn't turning off...

so, here's the question - if you disconnect the inputs to the sub, does it turn off now?

 

so i wonder if there is a way to introduce a bit of noise into the input line just to keep the sub turned on when the car was running. that would at least keep it from popping when switching sources/muting the sound. however, you would want this to be a cheap solution and not hear the noise come through the sub. something out of its range maybe.

 

^ interesting concept...

 

i found this on crutchfield:

""Relay Pop
Relay turn-off pop is caused by components in the system turning off before the amplifier completely shuts off. In most cases, the component will be an EQ or signal processor. Usually adding a little turn-off delay to the offending processor can fix the problem. This allows the processor to turn off after the amplifier, preventing the pop. Many components have this feature built in, and it is adjustable. Check the manual to see if your component has this feature available. If not, you can build your own delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side toward the unit. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the positive side of the cap connected to the striped side of the diode, the negative side of the cap to car chassis ground (not to the body of the radio or processor chassis). Experimenting with the capacitor value will give you just the right amount of delay before the EQ shuts off. You don't want the delay very long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. Usually 220 - 1000uF is about right. Make sure that the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher.""


modifry? macguyver?

 

some interesting products here too:

http://www.soundgate.com/products/trigger/

any thoughts?