A sub fitted in the boot works well as it has the boot cavity (in front of the speaker) to use to move air. The air-capacity is perfect in the boot for a single sub - plus the sound comes through the area beneath the soft top nicely (and through the vents a treat).

I cut holes through the door card as there are none standard. I have a set of grilles that i'm going to mount into the holes.

Yes, I expanded and cut-away a small quantity of the metal within the door skin - Only to allow the basket of the speaker to clear. The cone itself has ample room and is not obstructed in any way. It's important to get the seal between the 18mm MDF spacer and the door skin. When you do, the entire door cavity acts as a fixed-capacity box and improves the mid and low-end response of the speaker dramatically.

Oh I gotcha... I just realized your door panels were CF not the stock panels... :LOL: Very nice :thumbup:

Hey guys, I need to get something to connect to an ipod/phone or something that I can listen to my music with. Listening to radio is killing me. My problem is that I really DONT wan't the cheesy looking aftermarket headunit. I just dont think it looks good and haven't found one that looks slightly stock. Does anyone know of a stock looking headunit that will provide me the extra performance and convenience of an aftermarket unit?

Aftermarket head units don't have to look cheesy. Your best bet will be to look for something that has matching or variable illumination. The Pioneer DEX-P99RS is a good example of something with a more refined look.

Also, search...

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/913...-ipod-adaptor/

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/964...one-connector/

that pioneer is perfect! I looked at pioneer, sony and alpine HUs and they all looked like crap. Where can I get the DEX-P99RS?

Edit: Holy crap! 1400 for it? I could never justify that. I could justify a $300 HU but that's pushing it. How can they justify a price like that?

and yes, I saw the adapters, but I want an improvement in performance so if, down the road, i choose to upgrade my actual speakers, the headunit wont be a detriment.

Try the deh-80prs...... its totally badass, a looker, and in your price range. It has matching illumination as well.

finally got my system up and running but not 100% complete yet

Head Unit - Pioneer DEX-P99RS
Speakers - Focal KRX3
Primary Amp - McIntosh MCC406M
Subwoofer - JL 10W6V2
Sub Amp - JL 500/1
OEM Control Adapter - Modifry Wired Adapter

Misc Items

Battery Terminal - Audison Connection SBC41N/SBC41P
Circuit Breaker - Stinger 150A Circuit Breaker
Distribution Block - Audison Connection SFD41C
Sub Enclosure - DIY Fiberglass
Mid Range Speaker Pod - DIY Fiberglass
RCA Cable - DIY F-CONN RCA RG-6 Connector w/ Dayton 3106AD0A RG-6 Coaxial Cable
Sound Deadener - Second Skin Alpha Damp

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...0/DSC_0011.JPG
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if you want to see how it started check here https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/863...#entry20511743

Does anybody have any suggestions for speaker systems that will maintain a good amount of bass without having to add a subwoofer? I want to upgrade what's already in the car as i have quite a bit of rattling from a couple speakers. I love my music loud but every time ive replaced speakers in the past it's always killed all the bass. I thought about focals for all of 5 seconds but I have a hard time justifying $1000+ for two speakers.

Hey everybody ! My OEM Clarion (P/N 39100-S2A-A701-02) in my '04 S2K has a cd stuck in it and I've read in earlier posts that this is a known issue and that even if you can manage to extract it, the issue may reoccur. I haven't decided on whether to replace it with the OEM part or a snappier head unit (with the Modifry unit). Where's the best place to find any of this stuff (OEM or non)?

Thanks

Anyone here have a 10" infinity sub, I can't seem to find a speaker cover for it and it's driving me nuts having my gym bag in the front seat due to me not wanting to damage/tear this sub. I went to stereo shops and all of them can't seem to help me with the right part. I also tried some shops that say they do customer work but none of them can manage to make a grill fit over the speaker it self. I'm thinking of ordering one of those universal ones from Amazon (around $20 +), but I'd prefer not risking it if it's not going to work.
Btw I have the box for the sub that replaces our tool set and scissors jack.

Anyone got the Focal PS165's? How easy does the tweeter go in? I'm installing mine tomorrow!

And how do I keep my rear speakers on new head unit?

Hey all, question: I've been looking at amp installs for a while and I see that a lot of people put up like a wall of carpet covered mdf at the back of the trunk, but what I can't find or figure out is how they did it. I want to do this to mine so I can save more space, but how exactly do you mount it? Any advice is awesome. Thanks.

its generally screwed down, but you can hide the head of the screw under the carpeting.

Built an amp rack yesterday and added a JL 500/1 into the mix

Headunit: Pioneer DEH-80PRS
Speakers: MB Quart QS216
Amplifiers: JL 500/1 & JL 300/4
Subwoofer: JL 10W3-D6

So I have the ability to use the DEH-80PRS to control a 3way active crossover network for tweeters/mids/sub, OR use the JL amplifiers to crossover the tweeters/mids/sub, OR the tweeters/mids could just use the MB Quart crossovers with each still being powered by their individual channel.

Currently, I'm using the headunit to set a crossover of 80hz for the subwoofer/speakers, front output goes to mids, rear output goes to tweeters (using front and rear outputs for mids/tweeters allows quick fine control over tweeter/mid volume difference using fader controls). The JL 500/1 is set to full range, JL 300/4 is set to full range, and all four outputs from the 300/4 go through the MB Quart crossovers.

Any suggestions?

http://dannydahl.com/img/x/IMG_2865.JPG

The headunit crossovers are typically the best ones. First and foremost these are crossovers in the digital domain before the signal gets converted to analog using the headunit DAC and passed along through pre-amp outs. 99% of the amplifiers have analog domain crossovers which add a bit more distortion than the ones in the digital domain. The 1% of the amplifiers that have digital domain crossovers are even worse because they have to convert the signal back to digital to process and then back to analog to amplify.

The second reason the headunit filters are better than the amp ones is because the steps you choose are very precise. For the amps that have analog domain filters you generally turn a knob and that can be 10hz off or 100hz off. The larger the discrepancy the worse the left to right balance.

Third reason headunit filters are better is that you can adjust them on the fly. A properly tuned car sound system requires dozens of hours of in car testing and when the adjustments are made at the back of the car this could take ages.



The only downside to headunit crossovers versus amp crossovers is that IF your headunit forgets to high pass your tweeters, these can easily be overdriven without a crossover and fry. You can use in line capacitors with a fairly low HP setting but then you forgo the benefits of all active filtering. More on this below.



The reason both headunit and amp crossover are better than the passive crossovers that come with speakers is that they filter the sound before amplification. This is the single largest benefit of active filtering. Passive crossovers not only rob power, but they also lower damping factors, and increase distortion noticeably, especially for high volumes. A proper high power crossover is hundreds of dollars in cost and no audio manufacturer ever produced a proper one for basic filters, let alone one that is tuned specifically for your car.


My vote is to use headunit filters without passive caps. I have burned one set of tweeters due to a DC short in ~ 10 years of using active filters. Totally worth the benefits of running a proper headunit filtered all active sound system. (Dome tweeters are generally pretty robust, it's hard to fry them even without a crossover on, if you want to use ribbons or air motion transformers I recommend inline capacitors because these two designs will fry even for small signal disturbances like turn on thumps).

anyone got any suggestions on a amp for a 4ohm dual coil kicker s12l5? i have an amp i got in 08 but its way off specs of the speaker. its only a 800w max and 200w rms at 4ohms. i really want to treat this speaker right since they dont make it anymore and it has been one of my dream speakers since my brother had one since i was about 12. im trying to find something small that i can hide too.

On Sept. 1st, 2005, I took delivery of my '05 S2000. I immediately disassembled the interior and installed 144 sq. ft. of Dynamat Extreme. The sound system has been through some changes. Recently, I replaced my sub amp with a JL Audio Slash series 600/1V3. What a difference an amp makes!!! I also replaced my front Focal K2P165 components with the German built, JL Audio ZR-650 components. What a difference! In my opinion, the ZR-650's sound so much better. Anyways, here's how she is at the current and final stage. (A little bit of old skool and a bit of newer skool).

144 sq. ft of Dynamat Extreme

Alpine DVA-9861 DVDAudio/Cd/MP3 Head Unit

JL Audio 600/1V3 Sub Amp(600Watts)

PPI A-404 Front ComponentsAmp (50X4)

PPI A-200 Rear Components Amp(50X2)

Audio Control DQXS DigitalActive Crossover ,1/3 Octave Dual Band Parametric Eq.

AudioControl DDC FrontController for DQXS

JL Audio 10W6V2 Dual VoiceCoil Sub

JL Audio ZR-650 FrontComponent Speakers (Bi-amped)

Focal 130KP Rear ComponentSpeakers

1 Farad StreetwiresElectrolytic Capacitor

Streetwires Power/GroundBlocks

Monster Cable Interconnects

S-Pods Rear Rollbar SpeakerEnclosures

Interstate Battery

Clifford Dual Proximity 2-wayPaging Alarm

144 Sq. Ft. Dynamat Extreme
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...1140239435.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...1140239477.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...1140239532.jpg


Alpine DVA-9861 DVD-Audio/CD/MP3 Head Unit w/ 24 bit Burr Brown Dacs:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_473223.jpg


JL Audio 600/1V3 Sub Amp (600 Watts):
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...38926_2792.jpg


PPI Art Series A404 4 Channel Front Component Amp (50X4) Bi-Amping Front Components
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_180854.jpg


PPI Art Series A200 2 Channel Rear Component Amp (50X2)
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_615050.jpg


Audio Control DQXS Digital Active Crossover, 1/3 Octave Dual Band Equalizers with Linkwitz-Riley Filters:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_153981.jpg


Audio Control DDC Digital Cabin Controller for DQXS Digital Crossover/Eq.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_210212.jpg


JL Audio 10W6V2 Dual Voice Coil Sub (wired in series at 8 ohms).
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...17f0a1f2a8.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_386453.jpg


JL Audio ZR-650 Front Component Speakers:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_779182.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...217_249131.jpg


Focal 130KP Rear Fill Speakers (in S-Pod Enclosures):
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...8926_77579.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...926_536053.jpg


Power Distribution: Interstate Battery, StreetWires 1 Farad Electrolytic Capacitor, Streetwires Power/Grounding Blocks.
Monster Cable Interconnects.
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Security:
Garage, LoJack, Dual Proximity 2-Way Paging Alarm, OEM Hardtop, Kodakan Seat Locks.

Haha nice system, what's your car weigh now with all the gear in it?

That I don't know. I do know that the Dynamat itself weighs in at about 60 lbs. & the OEM aluminum hardtop adds 40 lbs. I did however shave off 33 grams off each of my lugnuts by using Ray's Duralumin lugs. Oh, and about 4 lbs per wheel over stock by using Volk CE-28N's!!! At 51, my racing days are over. We all have our priorities and a good sounding system is mine. I did give up my trunk space. I still am able to carry a spare in the back and a jack behind the driver's seat. Although it's my daily driver, I have never had to use it in the 8 yrs. since I purchased it. Every few years I change it up a bit and right now, with the JLAudio Slash monoblock sub amp and front components, it has never sounded better.

Found a picture from when I swapped out my old JL sub for an Orion.

http://dannydahl.com/img/x/s2ktrunkaudio.jpg

Was finally able to put in a proper amp for my Focal K2Ps today (in place of old Alpine KTP-445) and re-wire everything.

Wanted to keep things clean, simple, and fairly light. Still have some wiring tidying up to do.

Alpine CDA-117 (due for upgrade soon)
Pair of Focal K2Ps
Focal FPS 2160 amp

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-e...2520woofer.JPG
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My goal was to just have a simple, relatively cheap, basic upgrade from the horrendous stock audio system.

I got a Kenwood KDC-BT555U head unit and Infinity Reference 6032SI component speakers. For $200, I couldn't be happier with the upgrade. The speakers are crisp and have quite a bit of bass for components, I'd hihgly recommend this setup for anyone looking for a cheap/simple upgrade.

Hey everyone, so I bought my s2000 last week and the first thing I plan on tackling is the stereo (well I'm shopping for a handful of things atm). The car came with a Sony headunit, Infinity components and a 2ch amp tucked in where the tools are in the trunk. I'm looking to add a sub, I think the easiest route would be replace the 2ch with a 4ch and bridge the extra 2 channels to a sub. My initial thought was to relocate the amp to the back left wall of the trunk and put the sub where the tools are now. I read in a different thread (can't find it) a few days ago that you can wrap the tools in a blanket and put them in the spare tire well? I'd like to keep them and the spare in the car.

What would be the best way to mount the amp? I noticed 2 methods and quoted them below. I also saw some people have amps behind the seat, that would be even better if I could do that. I'm only 5"8' so I could inch the seat up if needed.

This is the gear I'm looking at:
Kenwood KFC-XW1200F - 12" SHALLOW MT SUB - had one of these in a ported box in my old Civic. I think it would be enough for my S.
Zen enclosure box Would also do a corner mount.
Precision Power PPI P900.4Back in the day I sold car audio and PPI made a solid product. From what I could find, this pumps out a fair bit of RMS power. Bang for the buck, it was the best option I could find, but am more than open to suggestions.
PIONEER GM-D8604 Also saw this one which looks like it would work. 300RMS bridged at 4ohms to a sub thats max is 350RMS, should match up well.
Precision Power S760.4 The last option I was looking at.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Looking for the best way to mount the amp. I already have power running to the 2ch, I'll have to check the gauge as I may need to upgrade it for a more powerful amp. The current one is only 240w.

All input is greatly appreciated :)

here are some random pictures from s2000's we've done over the years!

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http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...finished_1.jpg

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Soft top space Audio Project Like to more detail

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...315_498912.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...15_2849146.jpg

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/g...315_729548.jpg

Very impressive - lotsa dead space there so if you don't have a soft top this is a good use of the space :)

Can anyone recommend a carpet that matches? I'm going to end up wrapping my sub enclosure and see some of you have used some carpet that matches very closely.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Almost done putting this together. Components going in this weekend.

Attachment 89844

^nice job, your subwoofer enclosure is probably one of the best locations and looks like our 10W6 design!


We've been doing a lot of custom dash installs lately and have another one in the works with an iPad mini....

here's the AVIC-8000 in a blue s2000 with our custom thicker OEM sport grip steering wheel:

Attachment 89842



and this one love the color combo, GPW with Red is hard to argue:

Attachment 89843

Thanks! I wanted to conserve as much space as possible. Going to make a cover for the amps soon with a window so that they are visible. Dealing with some rattling from the soft top tray right now when the bass hits. Thinking about adding some venting for the air to move through.

I love your double din installs. One day I'll grow the balls to cut into my dash. Would really make everything so convenient.

HERTZ 165XL and a new JL sub with a good tune...

Hertz makes excellent stuff. Had a full system in my old 99 Si and it sounded fantastic. 1000W RMS through 2 high energy 10's pounded.

Finally finished my system!

When I bought it, it already had an aftermarket Sony deck and speakers with a 2ch amp. I knew I wanted a sub, but couldn't nail down where I wanted to put it. A couple weeks ago I found a good deal on a box, picked up the amp and sub at cost from Visions and proceeded to tearing my car apart.

Sony DSX S100
Not sure of speakers, want to say Infinity Kapa
Hertz HCP 4D (tiny foot print and lots of power!)
JL 10TW1 (Hits hard for a shallow mount)

On to the good stuff:

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Sounds good and very happy with how clean it looks, almost OEM.

JL tw3 vs alpine swr-t 10". Has anyone tried both shallow mount 10'S ? What was your experience?

New trunk install!
 

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...b33914d04c.jpg
Kenwood deck Hertz HSK 165's Hertz 10" sub sealed Hertz amps