Subwoofer In Trunk Consensus?
I've read all the threads concerning the Subwoofers. Some say large amp/Subwoofer in the Tool Space. Some say it just rattles the trunk. Some say you gotta vent it into the cabin.
I myself have come to the conclusion installing in the cabin is a no-go.
Is there anybody out there who has installed in the trunk who can report - Clarity of Bass, Abundance of Trunk Rattling, Venting/Not Venting, Size of Amp/Speakers used?
Has Anybody heard from JL about cost of their stealthbox? Howz about a group buy?
I myself have come to the conclusion installing in the cabin is a no-go.
Is there anybody out there who has installed in the trunk who can report - Clarity of Bass, Abundance of Trunk Rattling, Venting/Not Venting, Size of Amp/Speakers used?
Has Anybody heard from JL about cost of their stealthbox? Howz about a group buy?
mine is mounted in the trunk well in a qlogic box, its great, one 10 inch woofer. Honestly, any woofer in ANY trunk will get a little rattle, but the lows are pretty good nonetheless. IMO, thats the best place to put a woofer in the s2000. Its clean and the box can be removed for more space. Hope that helps.
I've got a Bazooka tube 8" with bilt in amp. Works great, and you can tap it into the lines for the front speakers. If need be it is as easy as two starps and one harnes to remove it from the trunk. The only thing is to make sure that you get the fade control with it, because with some music it can be overpowering.
I had the 10" Infinity Baselink in the trunk, and if I turned it up too much there was significant rattling. You can hear the rattling outside of the car and not so much inside. I'm waiting on my new sub box to replace the Baselink and then I'm going to Dynamat the trunk area to minimize the rattling.
Definitely use the tool area with a large amp/subwoofers. You can't normally hear the "rattle" in the passenger cabin unless the top is up or you are hitting resonant frequencies. (and you are playing your music loud) The two most common rattle points are the trunk lock, and the convertable tray. The tray rattle can be fixed with either venting or neoprene strips. The trunk lock rattle can be fixed with packed neoprene. I wouldn't recommend using Dynamat unless you want to add fifty pounds of weight to your car without fixing the problem.
JL has not finished development of their subwoofer/box/amp for the tool area. I would recommend building a box to the specifications of the sub/subs you choose to use.
I am using a pair of JL 10w3-d2 (dual 2ohm voice coils) driven by a Pheonix Gold ZX350 bridged mono. est 500+ watts RMS. Not only can you hear it, you can feel it. Besides the mirrors, the sunvisors shake a good 1/2" in either direction. Its loud enough that your neighbors will complain. This is a very doable project but you won't have audiophile bass response without ripping out the convertable top.
If you bought this car to install a stereo, you bought it for the wrong reasons. There isn't much room to work with, and the acoustics are a limiting factor, unless this is your race car, there is no reason why you shouldn't do it.
JL has not finished development of their subwoofer/box/amp for the tool area. I would recommend building a box to the specifications of the sub/subs you choose to use.
I am using a pair of JL 10w3-d2 (dual 2ohm voice coils) driven by a Pheonix Gold ZX350 bridged mono. est 500+ watts RMS. Not only can you hear it, you can feel it. Besides the mirrors, the sunvisors shake a good 1/2" in either direction. Its loud enough that your neighbors will complain. This is a very doable project but you won't have audiophile bass response without ripping out the convertable top.
If you bought this car to install a stereo, you bought it for the wrong reasons. There isn't much room to work with, and the acoustics are a limiting factor, unless this is your race car, there is no reason why you shouldn't do it.
I made a .50 ft^3 fiberglass box for the spare tire well and vented the roof well... it sounds very good. Not only does the sound come from right behind you but nothing in the trunk rattles... I just have to relocate the spare...
I just got back from the local stereo shop. The owner there ardently opposes the placement of the subwoofer in the trunk. "You will get noise, not bass".
He recommended putting it in the footwell of the passanger side, decreasing the legroom of the passenger, or ripping the entire glovebox unit out between the seats and placing a 10" there in a custom fiberglass unit.
Also, He did not like putting full range speakers in the stock location because the existing location points towards the floor.
I agree with JerryPetersen, I am not looking for audiophile sound - its the wrong car for that. I also think this guy was taking me for a ride (to the tune of $5k).
He recommended putting it in the footwell of the passanger side, decreasing the legroom of the passenger, or ripping the entire glovebox unit out between the seats and placing a 10" there in a custom fiberglass unit.
Also, He did not like putting full range speakers in the stock location because the existing location points towards the floor.
I agree with JerryPetersen, I am not looking for audiophile sound - its the wrong car for that. I also think this guy was taking me for a ride (to the tune of $5k).
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I would love it if someone can do this for us at a reasonable price.
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ViewInstall....asp?EventID=26
10 in sub in the passenger footwell. I think the NSX has more space than the stook, but could it work?
Anyone think this is doable?
Will
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ViewInstall....asp?EventID=26
10 in sub in the passenger footwell. I think the NSX has more space than the stook, but could it work?
Anyone think this is doable?
Will



