Switched Source
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: Eastern NC
Switched Source
I am installing 2 gauges and a pump for my FMIC, I found one switched source in the underdash fuse box, the two identical terminals above I thought were switched sources, but apparently not. One was constant power and the other did not give me anything? I am an electrical idiot and probably should not be attempting this, but hey what better way to learn. Can anyone give me some direction on where to hook up the other two leads? Thanks!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 62
From: NJ USA
One is constant, one with the key, one with the lights on.
from the UK technical FAQ, I believe originally courtesy of Modifry
Why do you need three separate switched sources? Unless you are drawing a lot of current you
should be able to connect all three to one source.
You should make sure that whatever you are connecting to those terminals have their own fuses.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: Eastern NC
One is constant, one with the key, one with the lights on.
from the UK technical FAQ, I believe originally courtesy of Modifry
Why do you need three separate switched sources? Unless you are drawing a lot of current you
should be able to connect all three to one source.
You should make sure that whatever you are connecting to those terminals have their own fuses.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 62
From: NJ USA
quoting Modifry, from this thread:
The constant and ignition terminals are off the same fuse, so there is no particular reason to split them
for the different inputs.
I'd run wire(s) to a spade connector that slips onto the fusebox spade, then to 1, 2, or 3 (depending on how
obsessive you are) inline fuses (or a fuse/distribution block), and from the fuse(s) to the the pump and gauges.
Radio Shack has an assortment of fuse holders to choose from.
The two gauges probably draw very little current, and you should use a low-amperage fuse for them, while the pump
draws more and you'll need a higher amp fuse for it. Hopefully you have some specs that will tell you exactly what
the current draw is.
Both the "constant" and "ignition" terminals are fused by fuse 42 in the under-hood fuse box. It's a 40 or 50 AMP
fuse (can't remember). That's why you should always use an in-line fuse when connecting to these terminals. From
this terminal you could short an 18-gauge wire to ground and instead of blowing the fuse it would just melt the
wire (in about 2 seconds).
BTW - connector E (lights) is fused by fuse 23, 10 amps.
fuse (can't remember). That's why you should always use an in-line fuse when connecting to these terminals. From
this terminal you could short an 18-gauge wire to ground and instead of blowing the fuse it would just melt the
wire (in about 2 seconds).
BTW - connector E (lights) is fused by fuse 23, 10 amps.
for the different inputs.
I'd run wire(s) to a spade connector that slips onto the fusebox spade, then to 1, 2, or 3 (depending on how
obsessive you are) inline fuses (or a fuse/distribution block), and from the fuse(s) to the the pump and gauges.
Radio Shack has an assortment of fuse holders to choose from.
The two gauges probably draw very little current, and you should use a low-amperage fuse for them, while the pump
draws more and you'll need a higher amp fuse for it. Hopefully you have some specs that will tell you exactly what
the current draw is.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: Eastern NC
quoting Modifry, from this thread:
The constant and ignition terminals are off the same fuse, so there is no particular reason to split them
for the different inputs.
I'd run wire(s) to a spade connector that slips onto the fusebox spade, then to 1, 2, or 3 (depending on how
obsessive you are) inline fuses (or a fuse/distribution block), and from the fuse(s) to the the pump and gauges.
Radio Shack has an assortment of fuse holders to choose from.
The two gauges probably draw very little current, and you should use a low-amperage fuse for them, while the pump
draws more and you'll need a higher amp fuse for it. Hopefully you have some specs that will tell you exactly what
the current draw is.
Both the "constant" and "ignition" terminals are fused by fuse 42 in the under-hood fuse box. It's a 40 or 50 AMP
fuse (can't remember). That's why you should always use an in-line fuse when connecting to these terminals. From
this terminal you could short an 18-gauge wire to ground and instead of blowing the fuse it would just melt the
wire (in about 2 seconds).
BTW - connector E (lights) is fused by fuse 23, 10 amps.
fuse (can't remember). That's why you should always use an in-line fuse when connecting to these terminals. From
this terminal you could short an 18-gauge wire to ground and instead of blowing the fuse it would just melt the
wire (in about 2 seconds).
BTW - connector E (lights) is fused by fuse 23, 10 amps.
for the different inputs.
I'd run wire(s) to a spade connector that slips onto the fusebox spade, then to 1, 2, or 3 (depending on how
obsessive you are) inline fuses (or a fuse/distribution block), and from the fuse(s) to the the pump and gauges.
Radio Shack has an assortment of fuse holders to choose from.
The two gauges probably draw very little current, and you should use a low-amperage fuse for them, while the pump
draws more and you'll need a higher amp fuse for it. Hopefully you have some specs that will tell you exactly what
the current draw is.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
for_my_s2k
S2000 Electronics
6
Jul 27, 2013 06:09 PM