Want amp suggestions, info
Okay, so if I have a 2 ohm DVC sub, and I wire it in parallel, the amps will see 1ohm.

If I wire it in series, the amp will see 4 ohm, right?

Bottom line, 4 ohm is more stable, but less powerful, and 1 ohm will probably damage my amp if its only 2 ohm stable?

If I wire it in series, the amp will see 4 ohm, right?

Bottom line, 4 ohm is more stable, but less powerful, and 1 ohm will probably damage my amp if its only 2 ohm stable?
You got it. This is assuming the sub is the 8w3v2-D2. Check the last letter and number. it should tell you the impediance of the coils. If you have a multimeter, you can set it for an impediance test. Wire it up like the diagram, and check the positive and negative leads. Should tell you the impediance.
I dont know much about how rising impediances effect power, Phil or Modifry could light on this, but I would think it would effectively cut the power in half. Not sure, though. That is assuming a 2-ohm rated amp is powering the sub. If you indeed have a DVC with 2-ohm coils, you can get the Alpine MRV-F345 amp and not have a problem. The key is the impediances of the coils.
Once again, though, it also really matters what you a looking for, and if what you are looking for is even achievable through the current sub. 250WRMS to an 8" sub is not that much. I am running 283WRMS to a 10" sub and it leaves me wanting more sometimes. I think that is why a lot of people run a pair of 8" subs instead of just 1.
I would bring the sub / box down to a local audio store and ask them to hook it up to one of the amps. They should be able to do this for you. Just keep in mind that it will be significantly quieter in the car, as it will be in the trunk.
I dont know much about how rising impediances effect power, Phil or Modifry could light on this, but I would think it would effectively cut the power in half. Not sure, though. That is assuming a 2-ohm rated amp is powering the sub. If you indeed have a DVC with 2-ohm coils, you can get the Alpine MRV-F345 amp and not have a problem. The key is the impediances of the coils.
Once again, though, it also really matters what you a looking for, and if what you are looking for is even achievable through the current sub. 250WRMS to an 8" sub is not that much. I am running 283WRMS to a 10" sub and it leaves me wanting more sometimes. I think that is why a lot of people run a pair of 8" subs instead of just 1.
I would bring the sub / box down to a local audio store and ask them to hook it up to one of the amps. They should be able to do this for you. Just keep in mind that it will be significantly quieter in the car, as it will be in the trunk.
Thanks for all the help.
The sub is a JL 8w3v2-D2, and from what I'm hearing, I have to wire it in series to get 4 ohm since 1 ohm is not safe. Yes?
My current amp, and the F345 are both 2 ohm capable, so with this sub wired in series, I should be in good shape.
I'm looking for a little low-end fill, not resonating bass. I wired an old 10" Kicker to my current amp and it is loud enough for my needs, so an 8" with a little more power should give me the same performance.
The sub is a JL 8w3v2-D2, and from what I'm hearing, I have to wire it in series to get 4 ohm since 1 ohm is not safe. Yes?
My current amp, and the F345 are both 2 ohm capable, so with this sub wired in series, I should be in good shape.
I'm looking for a little low-end fill, not resonating bass. I wired an old 10" Kicker to my current amp and it is loud enough for my needs, so an 8" with a little more power should give me the same performance.
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