torrbi

So I live in north europe with exactly no one in my country who is good with AEM.
I had my car tuned by a tuner last year, but since he is more used to other systems, my idle was very hard for him to fix.
Ive had it supercharged, but this year I need to have it NA instead because reasons like to make it legal to drive.
I have flexfuel with 1300 deatschwerks injectors.

Is there anyone who has a good tune with idle set to coolant temp that is working, please send me a PM with maybe a printscreen on the idle settings.
Ive adjusted my idle myself to get it working perfect, but just when the engine comes up to working temp it just stalls.
Could need a full retune remotely I guess...

aaronyuri

If it's stalling then it's going too lean. If it's hunting then it's also too lean but not enough to stall. Anything mildly over 15.1 AFR and it starts hunting.

Make sure the idle ignition timing is set to 10° (lower it to 6° once you have it working better), then add more fuel. Your engine is getting enough fuel during warmup with the extra trim but once that trim is zeroed out, sounds like it's too lean and then your engine dies. Does the Infinity have idle PWM control? If it does, make sure it's set to around 26-27% at idle.

The likely hood is that you'll need to increase the base fuel at idle and then decrease the trims during warmup.

torrbi

Okey thank you very much!
I have a can gauge so I can see real time lambda and such, and lambda is at its target around 0.96 - 1.05 (keeps swaying with the rpm)
Im not so used to changing the ve table though, but I’ll carefully try it out

aaronyuri

Take a backup of the whole map before you start. You can always undo the changes with ease then.

You could start at 13 AFR (about .8 lambda) then slowly lean it out. That would be easier than trying to enrichen it.

EOE

I suggest logging it and sharing it with us. With a short log we can try to diagnose in addition to checking your setup, map, target AFR table, VE table, compensation tables, etc

DutchyFutch

Data log it and message someone that’s a remote tuner for a remote tune in USA. I know a couple people.

EOE

Also, you won't get a perfect cold or heat-soaked start and good idling car unless you have a solid base fuel table tune under normal operating temp, so 70-100C. Also keep in mind that below 70C you'll probably (hopefully) have these set right:

1. Pre-Crank Prime
2. Crank Enrichment
3. Post-Start Enrichment
4. Warm-Up Enrichment
5. Idle Speed Target (Idle base target map accuracy is important so ECU is not having to do a lot of work to get that idle speed correct (and hunt.)

These tables are multipliers over your base fuel table and most of these decay over time and will skew any adjustments you make UNLESS you're at an operating temps, so be careful making any changes until you're positive none of these are adding fuel. This goes for cold AND heat soaked start... but that's if you had a good tuner who configured these properly for cold start or a REALLY good tuner who did the same for a hot/heat-soaked restart after your car set for awhile. All of this had to be done right while reaching a compromise with an ON/OFF like condition so these multiplier tables don't mess up your car that was shut off then quickly started, so it never was stone-cold nor heat-soaked.

Up to 70C you'd probably want more fuel to run smooth like others said, so 0.85 LAMBDA and then once in the 70-100C coolant temps target stoich, so 1.00LAMBDA/14.7AFR

Anyways... share logs with us and/or a tuner.

HPC

See first what your target idle rpm is at the particular cts level you’re having problems with. Adjust the idle speed duty cycle accordingly while having a look at afr and then report back what goes on after that

RolanTHUNDER

Good info above but just get @AP1Chief onboard and let him tune it for you.