4k for a turbo kit?!?!?!
Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Jan 26 2010, 03:33 PM
here is a complete list of what parts I ordered for my Turbo kit...............it gets PRICEY
anyway, not everyone has to spend that much money. When all is said and done I'll be in the 400whp SC range for about $8k including the cost of the car, lol
alright dude, subtract 200, its now $13,800.00
Besides that everything I added can and IMO SHOULD be added with a F/I kit. Yes you can find cheaper manifolds, and skip the valves, or turbo blanket but this is what it really costs. I ADDED up everything I got for a "TURBO KIT". I did it the cheap way before, and not cutting corners this time
To do it right prepare to spend at least $10,000.00 or around $6,000 for a used one minus maybe a few things
Besides that everything I added can and IMO SHOULD be added with a F/I kit. Yes you can find cheaper manifolds, and skip the valves, or turbo blanket but this is what it really costs. I ADDED up everything I got for a "TURBO KIT". I did it the cheap way before, and not cutting corners this time
To do it right prepare to spend at least $10,000.00 or around $6,000 for a used one minus maybe a few things
Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Jan 26 2010, 03:16 PM
Besides that everything I added can and IMO SHOULD be added with a F/I kit.
You won't get the power curve with an SC that you get with the turbo, but you don't need half the tings on your list either because you don't have to do anything to the exhaust or get the same kind of heat.
Now the kit I went with will cost you a minimum of $5k (SOT Roots SC) which is more than the OP thought was too high, and has a compromise of lower potential maximum HP, but gives you a power and torque curve similar to a turbo at the same power level, without the heat and complexity. But you'll never get 450 to 600 hp out of it either.
Originally Posted by TRBOKEV,Jan 26 2010, 04:20 PM
I'm just stating what I have and the cost of those things... I don't see why you have to get all bent out of shape?
I put the spare diff there but I did not include what I paid for it in the total costs. I wanted a spare cause they do blow and I didn't want my car to be down for an extended time while I try and find one if and when it blew. Lots of cars blow them and I have a 6 puck CC stage 4 clutch which isn't very nice on drive line parts. Stage 4 clutch plus flywheel plus install is a little over 1K.
I did all my own work minus the clutch install cause that is just a major PITA and I also didnt do my welding of the exhaust/down pipe because I am not a professional fabricator.
I would never cheap out on fuel, you are asking for problems... I had the emanage ultimate and hated it along with every sinlge tuner in the area. I have a 1052U with the built in wideband, 3.5 bar AEM map, Injector dynamics 1000CC injectors and plug and play clips. It all adds up.
I never knew 2 serial gauges and a autometer pillar pod was baller as far a gauges were concerned?
What do you use a wind sock and pocket thermometer and a pressure gauge from home depot?
Sorry I just had to...
I use to run Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's which for an entire set mounted and balanced runs just under 1K in the 17" 255/225 variety. I am not going to run Dunlop Star specs as I can get them mounted and balanced for 700 for four corners. Yes the front last two to three sets of the back.
As far as the built head, please read member neemans thread (I think its still on the first page). Myself as well as a few other members I know along with neeman all had warped exhaust valves. Neeman broke his valve in half and it ate his entire motor. Many others have dropped valves due to stock valves or stock retainers.. I dont know about you but why risk it.. I had to pull the head out anyway for the thicker head gasket so I just bought a spare and had it completely built.
By the way this is my third FI build up on my S2000 which I have owned for six years.. I've had a comptech supercharger, Greddy kit and now my current Inline kit. If its one thing I have learned, its that cheap and fast dont mix well, as it usually costs a lot more in the end to fix things.

I put the spare diff there but I did not include what I paid for it in the total costs. I wanted a spare cause they do blow and I didn't want my car to be down for an extended time while I try and find one if and when it blew. Lots of cars blow them and I have a 6 puck CC stage 4 clutch which isn't very nice on drive line parts. Stage 4 clutch plus flywheel plus install is a little over 1K.
I did all my own work minus the clutch install cause that is just a major PITA and I also didnt do my welding of the exhaust/down pipe because I am not a professional fabricator.
I would never cheap out on fuel, you are asking for problems... I had the emanage ultimate and hated it along with every sinlge tuner in the area. I have a 1052U with the built in wideband, 3.5 bar AEM map, Injector dynamics 1000CC injectors and plug and play clips. It all adds up.
I never knew 2 serial gauges and a autometer pillar pod was baller as far a gauges were concerned?
What do you use a wind sock and pocket thermometer and a pressure gauge from home depot?
Sorry I just had to...I use to run Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's which for an entire set mounted and balanced runs just under 1K in the 17" 255/225 variety. I am not going to run Dunlop Star specs as I can get them mounted and balanced for 700 for four corners. Yes the front last two to three sets of the back.
As far as the built head, please read member neemans thread (I think its still on the first page). Myself as well as a few other members I know along with neeman all had warped exhaust valves. Neeman broke his valve in half and it ate his entire motor. Many others have dropped valves due to stock valves or stock retainers.. I dont know about you but why risk it.. I had to pull the head out anyway for the thicker head gasket so I just bought a spare and had it completely built.
By the way this is my third FI build up on my S2000 which I have owned for six years.. I've had a comptech supercharger, Greddy kit and now my current Inline kit. If its one thing I have learned, its that cheap and fast dont mix well, as it usually costs a lot more in the end to fix things.

As far as the valves, I was not acknowledged that these motors had any kind of issues creating power. I figured they were as good as the K series but I guess that isn't exactly so. And to what extent are we talking here? Because I was having a 300-350whp setup in mind which considering the past and how over enginnered honda engines are, and this being the infamous F20 that it wouldn't have an issue running 100-150whp over stock.
i pieced together my own kit. i got all the "kit" parts including greddy emu for around 3000 and my total (including 3" exhaust, clutch, gauges, okada coils, secondary fuel etc.) came out to around 8000, around the same price as the mase kit. not to discredit the mase engineering kit though, its a badass setup and sometimes wish it was introduced before i started getting mine together. but proves it can be done for cheaper. plus all the dsm kits for 2 grand ive seen look like crap unreputable companys, but what do i know as ive never owned one.
Originally Posted by nismo4life,Jan 26 2010, 06:53 PM
Not bent out of shape its just some of those prices didn't add up. $500 for a set of Defi's and the control unit I can see but a good ol' uego wideband and stewart warner boost gauge only set you back about 250.
As far as the valves, I was not acknowledged that these motors had any kind of issues creating power. I figured they were as good as the K series but I guess that isn't exactly so. And to what extent are we talking here? Because I was having a 300-350whp setup in mind which considering the past and how over enginnered honda engines are, and this being the infamous F20 that it wouldn't have an issue running 100-150whp over stock.
As far as the valves, I was not acknowledged that these motors had any kind of issues creating power. I figured they were as good as the K series but I guess that isn't exactly so. And to what extent are we talking here? Because I was having a 300-350whp setup in mind which considering the past and how over enginnered honda engines are, and this being the infamous F20 that it wouldn't have an issue running 100-150whp over stock.
I have 106whp over my baseline stock dyno on an unopened block (stock down to the headgasket) on a DD S2000 (310whp daily driven at 8psi) on pump gas. Other people have more power than that stock block, stock compression. There are lots of people north of 400whp on just a headgasket.300-350whp should be cake provided you don't cheap out on anything important...like fuel and tuning.
Originally Posted by Boost76,Jan 26 2010, 01:08 PM
Hey guys thanks for the input. I'll also check on SCers for the S2. I love the car no doubt, but people mark up the prices on parts. We drive S2s not NSXs. I might look into the greddy kit also. I just don't want a garage queen or tuner king. I do a lot of traveling in my car but I'd love to have more power.
All inputs are great, good or bad. I'll consider all & no harm intended. I also agree I'm glad I got myself out of DSMs although my DSM was more reliable than my S2(don't know why all my buddiies DSMs were dead). The S2 drives like a dream & I've got the RWD factor but I've had to replace the motor, both rear axles, both hub assembly, front windshield, top, dead ABS, check engine light & so on... Then I check on the turbo kit & I see myself getting robbed again. LOL...
All inputs are great, good or bad. I'll consider all & no harm intended. I also agree I'm glad I got myself out of DSMs although my DSM was more reliable than my S2(don't know why all my buddiies DSMs were dead). The S2 drives like a dream & I've got the RWD factor but I've had to replace the motor, both rear axles, both hub assembly, front windshield, top, dead ABS, check engine light & so on... Then I check on the turbo kit & I see myself getting robbed again. LOL...
Originally Posted by Boost76,Jan 26 2010, 08:24 AM
I've been also following that Godspeed kit & its gone from 1,900 to 3,500? Parts list hasn't changed but the price has. 2k for fuel might be it... if you go stand alone. I don't plan on going stand alone. I hope that cuts it down a little. My other brother has a Miata on stand alone @ 270whp & tuning is always a must = (headache). That thing is a garage queen.
Whats the best way to go without too much fuel work?
Whats the best way to go without too much fuel work?









