Also in for settings...

 

I will check my old turbo calibration & post up later for you guys.

 

heres the setting when car was running 12psi (410whp/280tq)
[attachment=7824:2step.JPG]

 

I'm here to learn, so bare with me here. But if I'm SC, I get boost by RPM. Since all I'm trying to do is keep the RPMs consistant when launching, adding any retard (whatever causes flames) wouldn't be necessary. Wouldn't that make the 2Step safer to run on the motor?

 

Is there an issue for sc too?

 

Doesn't matter what your power adder. Stock valves trains have been known to drop valves from cracking retainers/keepers. When you use a 2step, you are basically moving the combustion process from inside the cylinder where it belongs, to outside the cylinder, ie the exhaust ports/manifold/turbo, a delayed combustion if you will, it's hard on those parts as they weren't designed for it as you can imagine.

 

Doesn't matter what your power adder. Stock valves trains have been known to drop valves from cracking retainers/keepers. When you use a 2step, you are basically moving the combustion process from inside the cylinder where it belongs, to outside the cylinder, ie the exhaust ports/manifold/turbo, a delayed combustion if you will, it's hard on those parts as they weren't designed for it as you can imagine.
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What about the rev limiter? Is there also a problem with F/I?

 

Doesn't matter what your power adder. Stock valves trains have been known to drop valves from cracking retainers/keepers. When you use a 2step, you are basically moving the combustion process from inside the cylinder where it belongs, to outside the cylinder, ie the exhaust ports/manifold/turbo, a delayed combustion if you will, it's hard on those parts as they weren't designed for it as you can imagine.
[/quote]

What about the rev limiter? Is there also a problem with F/I?
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I mean the redline rev limiter

 

I think what he's wondering, is if it is bad to make a "2-step" limiter in the same way that a stock limiter works. I believe you would set it up as mentioned but just leave out the Ignition Retard setting and set the fuel cut first. That way, it will hold your revs for an easy launch, but not retard the timing causing heat buildup in the exhaust or a broken valvetrain. This would make more sense for a supercharger anyways because there is no need to try and spool it up via exhaust lol.

So I think your settings for a limiter without retard would be:

Soft - - - - Hard = 5 or lower. (This just changes how much RPMs will drop before the next fire I believe)
always on = Means it will always work providing you are under the set MPH
7000 ignition cut
6000 fuel cut = The ecu will cut fuel to the engine before spark, so there will not be excess fuel that gets burnt in the exhaust
??? ignition retard = I'm guessing either 0 or a value above 7000
MPH = Your choice. I prefer 5 or below

Please note, this WILL NOT build boost on any type of car. This is just a means of having the computer hold the revs for you for a consistent launch. Also, keep in mind that NO limiter is GOOD for your car. A fuel cut is much less likely to do valvetrain damage than an IGN/ Retard setup, however.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.