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Aem meth kit install time

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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 04:36 AM
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Default Aem meth kit install time

For anyone who has installed the aem meth kit how long of an install is it? I was going to just have tuning shop out it in and then tune it once installed but didn't think install would cost almost $500. I'm so busy recently so hard to find time to install myself. Is this really that long/hard of an install?

Shops rate is $120 an hour I think. So showing about a 4 hour install. Seemed like such a simple install to me when quickly looking it over.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:01 AM
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Took me a few hours with a Devil's kit (btw their customer service is amongst the best I've ever experience!) and the aem failsafe and now that I have it, I really like seeing how much flow I'm getting. My install went something like this:

Mount remote trunk tank (15 min).
Remove passenger front fender (you must remove the front bumper first) and mount pump(20 min).
Run water line (drill and attach cable holders) to pump (15min)
Mount control box to desired location in car and affix wire taps (40 min-I hate the foot well crawl space).
Wire power to water pump(10min).
Remove afetrcooler and Drill nozzle location and reattach to blower (10 min)
Bench test (mity vac/pressure pump with gauge is very handy here) (depends how many nozzles your testing).
Put fender/bumper back on.

Some things to keep in mind. If you increase the pumps pressure (which your should), the nozzle's rating will be off. You need to measure it. If you are using a graduated cylinder and timer to measure flow, you're only getting battery voltage, not 14v the pump normally receives so again the flow you'll get while driving will be more than what you're measuring.
For example my 441mL/min nozzle measured 570mL/min with INCREASED pump pressure with 12.5v. While driving I'd see 600mL/min so it's a good idea to keep these in mind when calculating what size nozzle you plan on using.

HTH

edit: forget the last step.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:09 AM
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Hey thanks a lot! I'll see if I can find the time to install it. Want to up my boost and retune asap so hate waiting for time to install. I might just bite the bullet and have it installed and tuned so it will be done. Doesn't sound like it is a bad install at all though!
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Moddiction
Hey thanks a lot! I'll see if I can find the time to install it. Want to up my boost and retune asap so hate waiting for time to install. I might just bite the bullet and have it installed and tuned so it will be done. Doesn't sound like it is a bad install at all though!

It wasn't and actually one of the more fun mods I've done. Just be sure your shop bench tests it first if you decide to go that route. I know it sounds silly, but you know there are way to many less than thorough shops out there. I had a defective controller when I bench tested mine. Devil's sent another out quickly.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 04:15 AM
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Ok yeah sounds like a good idea. I'll see if I can find time to install it soon. Want to get tuned ASAP!
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 05:51 AM
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Did you install a solenoid from pump to nozzle to cut flow when off?

The new kit has a built in check valve in the nozzle but has wiring for an optional solenoid still. Not sure if needed or not or if the built in check valve will be sufficient at stopping any flow.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:14 AM
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Also everyone seems to install pump on passenger side fender. Are there any space issues or mounting issues on the driver side fender well?

I think it would install cleaner and shorter distance from pump to aftercooler if I installed in the driver side fender well. Also the flow of the pump how it is supposed be mounted would be reversed on the passenger side going directly straight through with the hose.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:02 AM
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Do not put the pump in the fender, that’s a terrible idea. Locate in the trunk with the tank where it is easily inspected and serviced. These fittings all start to leak eventually as ive experience over the years, last thing you want to do is put in a place where you A. can’t see it, B. above anything you care about get wet and corroding, or C. have to remove the bumper cover and fender to access. Just no need for that. Run the line from the trunk through the access panel coming out behind the pass seat and down under the door jam cover and into the firewall to engine bay. This is the best way I found to do it which makes it neat and all the equipment accessible.

The AEM directions if I recall will give you the CC PM at 150psi. So the size nozzle in the package will be based on that 150psi. before then the pressure is ramping up, so that nozzle will be injecting less pressure then what its rated for. Some of the newer pumps have a pressure selection 150/200/250psi. Make sure this pressure is corresponding to the CC MP you want to run.

Generally higher pressure is best as it gives you a better atomization for more complete and effective combustion/cooling with less chance of washing cylinders (most crucial at first injection when pressure is its lowest) This is the drawback in a progressive system so do what you can to minimize it. So if I were you I would run a higher pressure selection from the pump and run a smaller nozzle. Like the med 330cc that comes in the kit. This will give you more max flow at 100% pump duty, but also better atomization when pump first kicks on when at its lowest operating pressure.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Moddiction
Did you install a solenoid from pump to nozzle to cut flow when off?

The new kit has a built in check valve in the nozzle but has wiring for an optional solenoid still. Not sure if needed or not or if the built in check valve will be sufficient at stopping any flow.
The new nozzle injectors they use with the check valve are supposed to keep the injection from leaking back in when not called upon as well as set a basic/min injection. I think they open at 20psi. So technically no you should not need the added solenoid. I use a solenoid in my custom system as the actual on/off for the injection since mine is not progressive like yours. However due to the laggy nature of the progressive system and the longer run from trunk to intake, the added solenoid would be best to wire in, so you can wire the pump to run at all times and recirculating holding pressure at the solinoid, the solenoid on/off controlling the injection rather then waiting for the pump to turn on and then time spooling up before it starts to inject, that is/was my biggest complaint with AEM's old simple self contained kit. The pump does have a bypass/recirculation so you can run it this way as I mentioned. I strongly advise doing so to get proper and constant function of the injection system.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 08:54 AM
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Wouldn't having the pump all the way in the trunk really hurt the response of the injection? I thought most installed it in the fender well. It would be a pain to access it as you mentioned though. Possibly install it in engine bay somewhere?
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