As mentioned, the pump will be running all the time just recirculating through the pumps bypass, so the system is under pressure/primed, that is the key to resolving the delay issue. Incorporating the solenoid is what makes that possible. The fluid is under pressure up to the solenoid, as soon as the injection controller set points are trigger the solenoid opens and it’s forced into the injector. So rather then the pump being the last step before the injector, it’s now the solenoid. Also the solenoid has no spool up time, its delivering everything the pump has to offer when its called upon. Normally you would have to wait for the pump to turn on, then start to spin and build pressure and then inject, this is a terrible set up. It surmounts to a big delay and poor initial atomization as mentioned, so the only way to try and help the delay aspect (which still didn’t work well enough) is to get the pump as close to the injector as possible. Before I figured all this out I ran the pump on top of the cross member under the after cooler, but it was a compromised place still, and not every after cooler is the same shape so it may not even be an option for some.

 

Ok yeah I forgot how big the pump is. Don't think it will really fit anywhere in the engine bay with how crammed it is with aftercooler and combo catch can etc.

So I guess I will mount it in the trunk. I'd rather put it closer to injection point but should be fine there.

It says the pump needs to be lower than the lowest point of the tank though which doesn't really seem to be possible in the trunk. I have a sub in the tool well so how important is it that the pump be lower than the lowest point of the tank? It also lists that the tank and pump should be lower than the injection point which also doesn't seem to be possible when mounting it in the trunk.

 

Get rid of the bass speaker . Mount the tank to the wall of the trunk and the pump can be mounded under that. This puts everything where it needs to be with relation to one another for the system to work at its best.

If you hook the system up with the solenoid as I described, it doesn’t matter where the pump is in distance relation to the injector, its a pressurized system at that point.

 

Do without running that solenoid there would be a noticese difference in lag you think? Or would the built in check valve help with that as well.

 

Absolutely night and day difference in performance. The check valve does nothing for you in this scenario, in fact the only thing its going to do for you running with the solenoid set up, is keep any fluid remaining in hose between the injector and solenoid from dribbling into the intake after it injects, that’s all its good for. Its a preset low pressure check valve, and operates totally different then what the solenoids job is, when is a electronically controlled on/off valve.

You should also have a flow meter separate or as part of the solenoid device to monitor flow coming in from the pump, and the AEM ECU cuts ignition or some form of failsafe IE; map switch or boost dump to trigger when no flow is detected. IF you want to cover all the bases.

 

Ok cool. Which solenoid are you running? I wired the solenoid wire into engine bay today so I'll definitely hook that up.

I spoke with Evans tuning and they can run a nitrous map I guess with the aem ems and if the unit detects an issue or runs dry etc it will trigger the safe map. I don't think I'll have to spray a ton of meth for the sc setup. Only up high most likely.

 

Im running just a generic water solenoid that I adapted the fittings to accommodate the hose we use in these kits. It was like $45 and a few bucks for the fittings. Im sure most any of the injection companies would have one, however they may cost more.

Anywhere from about 4500rpm and up is good with a moderate amount of injection. You will set the controller for a particular psi for it to start injecting, so that may be say 3psi at 4500rpm at WOT, but if your not at WOT it will still come on at 3psi, it just may take till 5500+ for you to make that due to the throttle opening, which is fine, but that’s what you can expect. You will see some benefit in the lower rpm with the cooler/denser charge of the injection and some timing advance. Just need to make sure you calibrate the injection amount so its not overwhelming the engine in the lower rpms as its ability handle it is less, but with a progressive system such as yours its less of a issue. For my personal system, I run 100% of my injection all at once (no progression) so I start injecting about 6500rpm where the motor approaches max trq and where it would see the most benefit.

 

Sounds good. Thanks. I'll check to see what's available when I get a chance.

Got all wires/ hoses routed. Led out in gauge pillar. Can't figure where to mount the tank. Guess I need to make a custome bracket or something. No good flat spot anywhere in trunk to mount it.

 

Not a problem, hate to see people go down a crumby road when I know there is a better one to take, since ive been down both already.

Well with a speaker box it could be an issue, but I can only lead you to water, I cant make you drink it

 

Has anyone noticed that the AEM V2 meth nozzle dribbles at the start of spray and after spray? I was helping a buddy install this kit (tank and pump are in trunk area) and i noticed that the nozzle dribbles a couple of drops of water when he press the test button and it dribbles 1-2 drop of water after. He has a solenoid valve installed to keep pressure up between the pump (recirc type) and solenoid. However, there is about a foot of tubing between the solenoid and the nozzle. Perhaps this is causing it to dribble at the start of spray. Do you think shortening the length between the solenoid and nozzle will help this problem? A foot of tubing between the two is not so bad in my opinion. What do you think? Also, do you think dribbing a few drops of water will cause any problems? Thanks.