Battery?

 

Car will only run as good as the tune / tuner...

 

Feel the cable from the to the starter right when you turn the car off and then after you try cranking. Is it hotter than before? Might just need some corrosion cleaned off the terminals. I had a very similar problem on a civic of mine and replacing the battery-starter cable and cleaning all the terminals solved the problem.

 

very true, but whos tuner has the time, gets paid enough, or has a tech team behind them to spend the time the manufacturer did building start tables, and logging startup values in all conditions, at all temps, in all altitudes....
nobodies.
So its 90% likely youll never have a good starting car in all conditions, on a setup where the typical tuner spent less than 30 mins on the startup portion of the tune.
ya with me.

 

Well i called AEM and this is the second time in my life that i am calling them and they are pretty good at their job.
I explained what happened when i cranked that the Voltage drops like hell and i couldnt tell them if the voltage drops when its cold,i will check that when i get home.But in any case.
Its easy to talk about a tuner..when you can choose one.
I have no access to Tuners and dont have any help in tuning since there is no tuner here in my country and no reputable tuners in the neighbour countries also..so its not easy for me.Even when i have small problems i have no one to ask since i am alone at this.
For instance,when my car gets hot she tends to die since i see that she gets very lean when i push the gas a little to move from standstill.
I have no idea how to fix this how to get the car not to be Lean on the first push of gas...
I have been looking at different maps on the Dtps and
dload accel maps and saw that they are all the same as my setting.
and making the main fuel map richer doesnt help either..so i am stuck.

i dont think its a rust problem but i will check..since the car cranks real good when hot and has great power while doing that.also It starts real nice.


Back to the point - AEM tech said that i should open the AEM itself and look at R11 and R30 and see if there is a resistance of 4700ohm and if there wasnt i should change the resistor..probably that will solve my problem.

Cheers anyone that can help in tuning is welcome.
stefce

 

bad ass. mad props that you are in your country, and have no one to help, and yet you get this handled. You deserve credit for that. many people would never even attempt this.
Hope your issue gets solved. you should be able to figure this all out, since youve already gotten this far. but im sure if not, there are many from the USA, and other countries who would fly out to you and help you, provided you had some cash to pay for the trip.
later dave

 

bare in mind that i am at 14-15 psi at stock CR stock motor..
thats even rare in the states....i was affreid to do it but i did it later on.
now i just have to clear this little bug and i am good.What i need to do later is have someone look at my IGN table and dyno tune it for more power..
currently i am at 370whp uncorrected. or 400WHP by DIN. or 430 flywheel by DIN.

i love the s2k and this forum.

 

There have been a few threads from different owners (me included) about this problem. In my case, it ended up being the AEM EMS (1012) itself. I upgraded to the 1052, and the problem persisted. So I sent the unit (1052) back to AEM, they upgraded the software and now the problem is gone.

I would suggest u send the unit back to AEM and have them verify that u have the latest software. Should look like this on the side of the unit:



Good luck.

 

Well i did check what happends when its cold..the voltage is at 11.3-4v before i crank it and when i crank it it goes down to 9-10v range and starts right up when Stat Sync is on. which is after few cranks.
I bet that my car wont start when hot because Stat Sync isnt on. I am pretty sure..its than also at 9-10v range and the stat sync doesnt come on.

Now i dont know what to do. i cant think of a stronger battery or bigger one,its the biggest it can take its a red top 78 i think.its oversized and not for this car.
and the Battery voltage at idle is 13.8v or so,

i dont know,can i have a bad ground somewhere on the car that this happends? i have 2x1 farad caps in the trunk with all the ICE i bet they should help when cranking? Can the battery be discharging while sitting from a bad ground? just shooting ideas..but the car has been left a month not moved or started and starts right up when i tried it after a month...so no point on battery draining...what i cant understand is why the car cranks bad when its hot,like the battery is too week,It should have be the other way around.,.since the car was charging the battery all the way when the car was working...
i will test the car with another battery i have BLUE top on cranking to see if the voltage drops than during cranking,..
can someone check the cranking battery volts for me on thier car as a reference?
thanks
stefce