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Andy's CR PFAB Turbo Build...so it begins.

Old 11-28-2016, 12:20 AM
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Default Andy's BB 2008 CR Turbo Build

Follow me on iG: boost2k

Hi guys,
Just want to introduce my project to you guys to get some helpful feedback along my build. I've been collecting parts for years, actually since two Hondas ago to be exact lol to go boost. My goal is to hit around 500hp on E85. I also want to buff up my head with springs and retainers but not sure if that's necessarily needed at this time. Anyway, I've finally got around to tearing the CR down this weekend and am committing to this build! Wish me luck!
Some photos of when i first got her:


OG RG1s for a little while

Then came the 17x10 ce28n

Alignment at vodie's

Currently, my build consists of:

ENGINE/TRANS
Stock 2008 unopened f22c 65xxxmiles
Stock transmission
Stock differential
Supertech dual valvesprings 95lbs and ti retainers
Spoon front upper strut bar
Spoon magnetic engine and trans bolts
Fluidampr crank pulley damper
Balladesports TCT
Balladesports bolt-in oil pan baffle
NGK Iridium 8
Vibratechnics HON200M motor mounts
Alloycraft heater bracket
Timing chain cover -10AN oil drain
ACT HD pressure plate
Honda OEM friction disk
AP1 resurfaced flywheel
Exedium differential collars
Koyo hypercore radiator
Blox slim fan with custom shroud

TURBO
Garrett T3/T04E/V-band 58mm 60trim .63 A/R turbocharger
PFAB equal length topmount manifold and 3" downpipe, open dump
Import Auto Pros sidewinder manifold and 3" downpipe, open dump
Tial MVR wastegate
Synapse synchronic bov
Precision 600hp intercooler
PFAB 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping
Schmuckbuilt combination catch can
Challenge 3" Ta-R exhaust
Mac 3 port boost solenoid
Hondata Flashpro
Hondata 4 bar map sensor

FUEL
DW 1300cc Injectors
Five-O 2200cc Blackops E85 Injectors
SOS fuel return system
SOS fuel pump wiring kit
AEM 320LPH e85 fuel pump
Walbro 450 e85 fuel pump
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Blox fuel pressure gauge
GM Continental flex fuel sensor
Digital to analog signal converter

SUSPENSION
Swift Spec R springs on factory CR struts
Volk CE28N 17x10 +45 & +44
Nankang NS-2R 120utqg 255/40/17

MISC
Defi BF boost gauge and controller
HKS turbo timer
Backyard Special low seat rail

Shout outs:
Pang at PFabrications
All the guys at Science of Speed
Nate at Balladesports
Lorenzo and David at Import Auto Pros
James and Lawrence at Signature Autobody
Kenneth at Funfzehn Automotive
Speedfactory

I literally just started the tear down this weekend and only got around to fitting the intercooler. I'll try to be as detailed as I can with each step so others may find this thread helpful if they're in the same situation as me. Then again, I'm usually pretty good at taking pictures and documenting stuff at the start and tend to forget to take pictures towards the end...hopefully that doesn't happen. Anyway, on with the build and pictures!

I cut and smoothed the plastic guards with a dremel to make room for the intercooler piping.
Driver's side:



Passenger's side:



Once clearance for the piping was good, I used the dremel to cut away at the support beams to make room for the precision intercooler (its all hacked up, gonna clean it up later when its all fitting nicely).
Passenger's side:



Driver's side:


As you can see, I started to make a bracket out of 1.5"x1.5"x6" aluminum L bracket to use as an anchor to mount the intercooler. The precision 600hp intercooler has a threaded hole on each endtank. It also had these aluminum extensions that I cut off to get the intercooler up higher closer to the crossbar about 1/4" more, shown below:



Then I mocked up the pfab manifold, turbo, and downpipe. I ended up thrashing the exhaust manifold studs taking them out. Gonna have to buy some new ones :/ It all fits very nicely. Only thing is the elbow for the wastegate sits on the hard brake line which I'll have to bend the line out and around the elbow. Just wondering how I should go about doing this so that I don't put a kink in the line or cause it to vibrate against the chassis somewhere (if anyone has pointers here, please share, I was planning on just using some pliers with shop towels to prevent any scratches??).


Downpipe:


Hard brake line issue:


I'll end up putting a 3" flexpipe somewhere between the end of the downpipe and testpipe.

BATTERY RELOCATION
I also relocated my battery and fusebox some time ago referring to multiple diy threads here on s2ki. The relo was pretty easy and straight forward for anyone tackling this too. I took a couple pictures to show how I did mine.


I relocated my battery to the trunk with 0gauge welding wire and gold terminals from O'Reilly's autostore. I had to use a step bit to drill a hole in the firewall to feed the wire through. From there I used a distribution block to wire it up to the factory fuses. I grounded the battery to a bolt behind the passenger seat and it seems to hold well with no electrical problems...yet. Hopefully its a good spot, I probably should have sanded the area down a bit but it hasn't given me grief yet. I also used a Scorpion battery kill switch nearest the battery for the power line. It's a cheaply constructed piece but its doing the job. I wrapped it with an old neoprene knee brace that I had so stuff in the trunk don't accidentally hit it. It's kind of half-assed since I couldn't find good places at the time to mount everything. But I recently saw another member mount the battery with factory hardware in the spare tire section, looks so much cleaner. I might have to copy him and place my battery there.

As for the fusebox, I ordered a second bracket from Honda pictured below and it worked out perfectly with how I mounted the fusebox turned to the side.



Well this is where I'm ending the build tonight. Dropping off my spare oil pan with my dude at Import Auto Pros to get the bung welded up. I ordered some grey permatex for the oil pan sealant (is this good stuff??) Hopefully I'll have some time tomorrow to finish up mounting the intercooler. I want to be able to run the stock grill to be a little more stealth on the road. I'll take pictures of how that goes.

Thanks for reading, and if anyone has any pointers for me drop a line, good or bad. I'll definitely have questions for you guys throughout this thing so help me when I ask haha.

Last edited by Mijae007; 10-15-2018 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:21 AM
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BTW, here's a picture of how the car looks right now


Last edited by Mijae007; 11-28-2016 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 12:21 AM
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First dyno

435whp and 331wtq

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Old 11-28-2016, 12:21 AM
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New dyno on 6/26/17 @18psi. Tuner is Dave @importautopros
499whp/367wtq

Night runs with a few friends

A few runs against my buddy with a 511whp evo10

F80 M3

Vortech SC S2000 and Tesla P100D

Last edited by Mijae007; 05-02-2018 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 11-28-2016, 07:22 AM
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the brake line just unclip it and bend away slowly and careful away from the manifold. I have same manifold but on a 66mm turbo. 6096511866 text me any questions-Luis
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sdosmil77 View Post
the brake line just unclip it and bend away slowly and careful away from the manifold. I have same manifold but on a 66mm turbo. 6096511866 text me any questions-Luis
thanks man, super appreciate that
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Old 11-28-2016, 01:08 PM
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Looks good. you should be able to make your power on that turbo . about your brake line. I would just buy some heat cloths and wrap them. I did the same on my and it's been fine. no brake line damage. here mine if you want to look threw it.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-fo...-dyno-1163803/
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Old 11-28-2016, 01:15 PM
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I would use studs with nuts/lock washer on your turbo manifold so your bolt don't back out on your turbo. also the srt4 arp manifold exhaust manifold studs with some loctite works good. I haven't have them back out on me and also the studs are longer than the s2k studs so you have a little bit more grip. I had bad boost creep on the tial 44mm mv-r wastegate brand new. the precision 46mm work for me. Your ap2 retainer will be good for your power level. No need to upgrade them. just some stuff i ran into on my built that could help you out.

Tap your timing chain cover instead of your oil pan.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:00 PM
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Thanks Hershey. i just ordered these titanium studs from speedfactory 35% off black friday deal, cant beat that!
https://www.speedfactoryracing.net/s...stud-kit-14015
i decided not to ceramic coat the pieces thanks to a member who warned me it would void the warranty. Man, this is what a car forum is supposed to be like
Next comes finishing up making the brackets and mounting the intercooler. ill keep updating the thread

Last edited by Mijae007; 11-29-2016 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 11-29-2016, 05:52 PM
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Had my battery in the exact same spot! But don't forget to put some sort of rubber insulator caps on your terminals, I learned the hard way. Had a few occasions when I took a sharp right turn and my battery leaned and the terminals arched against the metal trunk hinge and my car completely shut off Can't wait to see your finished project!
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