Bad Tune? Greddy recently installed.
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I'll call them up and find out. They're known for tuning Subbies and EVO's though. But they are the only tuners within a reasonable distance. Church's is double the distance. And I know they've done S2K's before.
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Originally Posted by t0m,Oct 20 2010, 12:41 PM
I'll call them up and find out. They're known for tuning Subbies and EVO's though. But they are the only tuners within a reasonable distance. Church's is double the distance. And I know they've done S2K's before.
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From: Irvine, CA
Which tuners do you guys recommend in Socal for the Emanage? I know, I still need to send you my map itlyn =\ I'm so bad with that.
I have this EXACT same issue. It was tuned at HB Speed in Huntington Beach. I notice that if I let the car warm up COMPLETELY, not just 1 or 2 notches, it'll be okay. And by okay I mean it wont stall out, but the idle will fluctuate a little at idle and when I put the clutch in it'll get dangerously close to shutting off, but the ECU will catch it and itll go from like 500 rpm to 1200 rpm with a blip.
I'd say out of a 7 day week, maybe 1 or 2 days it will do this. The other days it runs perfect with no idle issues.
This happens regardless of the weather or moisture in the air. I noticed that during the rain it threw a CEL twice though. It goes away when the rain stops.
I also noticed that this was an issue with the old flywheel, but when I got a lightened flywheel it's far more exaagerated as an issue. Before, it would happen the first time and then it'd be fine the rest of the drive. I think it was better with stock because the RPMs fell so much slower than they do now which meant that the ECU had more time to compensate for the low rpms.
Btw, I have an AFR gauge that's setup in the High-flow CAT and all I notice is that the idle is fluctuating because the AFR gets too rich. It'll bump up to like 15-16 afr and it seems like the car is trying to compensate by raising the idle which will drop it down to 12 afr...which then causes it to go too lean and so the car will compensate by lowering idle and itll bounce back to 16 afr...and so on...
I have this EXACT same issue. It was tuned at HB Speed in Huntington Beach. I notice that if I let the car warm up COMPLETELY, not just 1 or 2 notches, it'll be okay. And by okay I mean it wont stall out, but the idle will fluctuate a little at idle and when I put the clutch in it'll get dangerously close to shutting off, but the ECU will catch it and itll go from like 500 rpm to 1200 rpm with a blip.
I'd say out of a 7 day week, maybe 1 or 2 days it will do this. The other days it runs perfect with no idle issues.
This happens regardless of the weather or moisture in the air. I noticed that during the rain it threw a CEL twice though. It goes away when the rain stops.
I also noticed that this was an issue with the old flywheel, but when I got a lightened flywheel it's far more exaagerated as an issue. Before, it would happen the first time and then it'd be fine the rest of the drive. I think it was better with stock because the RPMs fell so much slower than they do now which meant that the ECU had more time to compensate for the low rpms.
Btw, I have an AFR gauge that's setup in the High-flow CAT and all I notice is that the idle is fluctuating because the AFR gets too rich. It'll bump up to like 15-16 afr and it seems like the car is trying to compensate by raising the idle which will drop it down to 12 afr...which then causes it to go too lean and so the car will compensate by lowering idle and itll bounce back to 16 afr...and so on...