S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Cam Timing with Supercharger

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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #251  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky
Originally Posted by s2konroids' timestamp='1331572167' post='21501178
I don't have an overlay with me at this moment in time.

It looks like there were no any gains until after 7600rpm even then it was around 2BHP, up top at around peak is where i noticed small gains, even then it may have just been due to the fact it leaned the mixture out a little (from 11.7 to 12.1 AFR) so the cam timing 'could' have done nothing. The belt was slipping slightly at the top end at the power was originally down from when i was last at the dyno, it was tightened and power shot up.

I did advance/retard the timing slightly with no gains in power so the timing was pretty much spot on with the cam keys and before. I am the tuner.

I'm not sure what went wrong really.
It sounds like it made positive improvments

The fact that it made the afr leaner shows that the engine is breathing better as a result. I think it’s safe to say that if you were maximizing the pressure from your blower, that you probably would see your current gains two fold.

At my level I’m really interested to see what gains I would make. I'm making nearly 16psi at only 8k rpm. After all my efforts getting my car back on the road and running good, I am leery of performing this operation though, as strait forward as it is. I dont like the idea of undoing the head bolts. hg failure scares me a bit running my pressure level and injecting water/meth.

AJ did you see any difference in boost pressure measured after this? More? less?
Initially that would be correct as pointed out. TBH Chris, I'm not convinced I cant remember if i tuned the top end beforehand on the road when i left the dyno (at the original AFR in the high 11's) - I think i did. Running richer would tie in with boost loss at the top end, tightening the belt would then bring the AFR's back in to line hence run leaner, so in effect I'm running what i should have been and if i was tuned at low 12's on the dyno i would have seen similar results.

Nope, exactly the same amount of boost.

You wont effect the head bolts, its a doddle.

Basically you take off the cam cover
Line up to TDC use a pen marker
Remove the cam carriers,
take out the cams,
Put in a vice and get a spanner to hold them
Crack off the front bolt
Take out the old key do this to both the intake and exhaust cam
Insert the new keys remembering to get it on the correct side and torque back up
Put back together.
IMPORTANT Torque settings are in the workshop manual
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 05:09 AM
  #252  
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Just installed the cam keys yesterday. Going to get re-tuned this week. Results to follow.

Brian
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Old May 3, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #253  
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Sorry guys, but I will not be on the dyno today like I had planned. On Monday evening we think that my Competition Clutch pressure plate took a crap as it will not disengage (even after re-bleeding and completely removing the master and slave cylinders and cleaning them as well as the lines so...) The trans will be removed most likely tomorrow to see for sure what happened. I will get it on the dyno once this issue has been corrected.

Sorry for the delay.

Brian
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Old May 3, 2012 | 02:11 PM
  #254  
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Old May 3, 2012 | 02:16 PM
  #255  
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Pretty much what we did...

[/quote]
Basically you take off the cam cover

Line up to TDC use a pen marker (all my cam gears were marked from the factory and spun crank with wrench)

Remove the cam carriers, (paying attention to the OE service manual specs for removal pattern)

take out the cams, (we actually loosened up the cam gears while they were still in the head before we loosened up the cam caps using a socket on the cam gear and an open end on the cam...with two people)...yes there is plenty of clearance for this)

Put in a vice and get a spanner to hold them (we chose to do it while still in the head...seemed easier to us for holding purposes)

Crack off the front bolt (simply un-threaded)

Take out the old key and do this to both the intake and exhaust

Insert the new keys remembering to get it on the correct side and torque back up (printed out the diagram for reference)

Put back together.

IMPORTANT Torque settings are in the workshop manual
[/quote]


Brian
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Old May 6, 2012 | 03:52 AM
  #256  
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Well it turned out that the clutch disc hub broke and one of the springs came out and got jammed up in the PP.

The GOOD news?...Competition Clutch and King Motorsports really stepped up and are getting me a brand new replacement clutch and pressure plate for FREE! Big suprise and Props to Competition Clutch and King Motorsports for this!

BIG BIG THANK YOU TO BOTH FOR THIS! I APPRECIATE IT GREATLY!


Big Thanks to RAINH8R (Dustin), 518135 (Joe), Tim and Mike (both from King) for all of their involvement. You are all very stand up guys IMHO!


Brian

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...12414-broken-1

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...12415-broken-2

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...12416-broken-3

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...-jammed-spring

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...g-motorsports/
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:07 AM
  #257  
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Should be all back together and on the dyno again by the end of this week or so. I'll update when I know more.

Brian
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:21 AM
  #258  
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Hey! Where are the props for the guy who diagnosed it/broke while driving?
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:31 AM
  #259  
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HUH? You cant read?
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Old May 6, 2012 | 04:45 AM
  #260  
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edit much?!?! haha
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