Off topic here but do you know if the Kraftwerks loses a few psi as well? If so that kit would be sweet with an aftercooler to get over 400whp no problem.

 

I don't know why it wouldn’t lose more boosts with the fmic over any other centrifugal. It might retain upwards of 13-15psi with an After cooler. That blower spins at 100,000rpm though, which is twice as fast as a standard CT/VT centrifugal, so IAT heat plays a larger factor, which is why I assume the fmic was chosen. With an efficient larger AC/heat exchanger and with the addition of water/meth injection, throw some of those offset keyways in there and it could be a viable way to get that kit to see a reliable 425-450whp for the street

 

Anyone get a before and after dyno with these yet on a more stock engine setup? Really wanting to see some gains on a 10-12 psi setup!

 

i wonder how that will work with NA setups,do you have graph for NA Ap1 or ap2 ?

 

I have no experience with NA.

 

If anyone has undertaken this themselves I wonder if you can give me a little insight. I purchased a 2 degree key from Sideways and at some point will try to swap it in when I change out my valve spring retainers.

Now if this little dohicky swaps into the cam I guess I have two questions:

First, I think the exhaust cam rotates clockwise, correct? So advancing it two degrees makes it a little further in a clockwise direction at TDC than it would be stock?


Secondly, I don't know exactly what this looks like when it all comes apart so I have a concern about alignment of the cams when I swap in the new key. Will the cam gear still have the same orientation and it is only the lobes that are advanced with the key, or should the marks at TDC be off by two degrees advance when I try to put the cam back on because the gear is advanced as well? I hope that question made sense.

Thanks.

 

Your questions: I think the exhaust cam rotates clockwise, correct? So advancing it two degrees makes it a little further in a clockwise direction at TDC than it would be stock?

Not correct.
From the front of the engine, both cams turn counter clockwise.
The cam should move counter clockwise in relation to the sprocket to advance and clockwise to retard.

The cam timing will look stock with the key advancing or retarding the cam 2 degrees in relation to the sprocket.

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/i...amassemblygif/

 

Thanks Sideways, the pic helps a lot. To get the cam gear off is there a better way to take off the nut than wrapping the cam in plenty of cushy towel and gently securing it in a vice just enough to get the nut loose or is there another preferred method? Loosen the nut with the cam still on?

 

Just behind the sprocket is a place to secure an open end wrench to hold the cam. We did it with the wrench in a vise.

 

Many thanks.