http://www.billzilla.org/engvariable.html
Some thoughts on the results above ...
1. Moving the inlet cam around has a greater effect than for the same amount for the exhaust.
2. Advancing the inlet and retarding the exhaust gives more mid-range power, at the expense of bottom-end and top-end.
3. If you want power over a narrow band, then there's a lot to be gained by playing with the cam timing.
4. This is why variable cam timing is a good thing for making a wider torque curve, and hence making the engine more driveable. Examples of these engines are the Toyota 20 valve 4AGE, generation four 3SGE, Honda S2000 engine, etc.

 

DO did decide to hook it up a bit. To make the test REALLY fair, we will be doing baseline run, slap on the keys just the way sideways has presented, and then do another run RIGHT away!

We will also be taking pictures of how the keys are installed, so there would be no doubt on if they are installed wrong.

DO seems to be a bit offended at the suggestion that they might have installed it wrong, so they would like to do the test exactly it was carried out the first time, as shown in the drawing.

- Sung

 

is there anyway that you guys could do the run then remove just the exhaust key and do another run.....i know its asking alot

 

 

I can ask, but if its going to cost me more money in doing so, probably not. Unfortunately, with holiday season is right around the corner and money is fairly tied up.

If anything, I may try to talk to them about installing it as retarding intake by 2 and advancing exhaust by 1, but according to them, that will NOT yield the same result as retarding intake by 1 and advancing exhaust by 2.

We will be beginning in about 30-1 hour. I am HOPING for some good results just like most of the people keeping an eye on this thread.

- Sung

 

i say if installed correctly the first time this would be a waste.trying the other way makes more sense

 

rain you waiting,sideways too

 

Alright guys! Here is the update every has been waiting for! You guys can almost use this as a DIY for those brave souls!

So, we did go with 2 advance on exhaust and 1 retard on the intake side.

Initially, we did a dyno run, where we found the belt was slipping. We proceeded to tighten the tension and ran it on the dyno! Please ignore the winter wheels


After getting the initial number, pulled the VC and cams off!

VC coming off:


Cams:


Lined up correctly:




Couldnt take picture of the crank pulley and the triangle lining up.. here are the attempts:


Finally, the cams are off:


Exhaust side getting installed. Notice the 2 facing left side:




Intake side getting installed. Notice the 1 facing right side:




Putting the cams back and lining them up:




Finally what everyones been waiting for! The Results:
Todays run before and after:


Todays result vs first dyno run:


Although the belt was slipping, we still were able to get same boost to make a comparison! It seems as though theres just about ~14whp//~10tq made!

Myth has been busted! The cam keys DO make power! I'd like to thank Drift Office for offering to do the full test (baseline, install on the spot, dyno again to compare the difference) and everyone who has been contributing and following this thread!

Now everyone go buy the keys from sideways and install them!

- Sung


PS: For those people who have Vortech superchargers, what is the proper procedure of tensioning the belt? I have a very hard time adjusting the bolt on the back of the pulley. I did purchase the replacement nut from Sideways, which I will be installing soon. The question I have is, can you swap out the bolt with supercharger still on the car? Also, what size is the bolt thats on the back of the pulley?

 

YESSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!! did you guys tune anything else?timing,a/f?why were they not revving it to the limiter?

 

Great news, thanks for doing this!

I took my entire blower assembly off to install the Sideways lock nut.