Clutch Suggestions
My gf drives my boosted S with an act 6 puck sprung w/o issue in traffic And driving me home 35 miles after a long day at work. I'm 440whp@15psi in northern va traffic. Also when I have had to much to drink and still manage not to throw up all over in my interior
Originally Posted by GrandMasterKhan,Sep 28 2009, 03:41 PM
The ACT HD with the street disc is capable of holding 380tq which i believe is in your WHP range of 450-500 depending on which turbo kit you go with.
ok heres two opinoions of mine.
1. i love my clutch. its perfectly fine in traffic, hard shifting, lazy shifting, from a stop or rev matching. holds like a SOB for my power, and should hold up to about 350wtq.
2. CC stage 5. my buddy put this in his stock s2k in preparation for a mase turbo kit. side note , it was stolen before the turbo. anywho, he did the CC 5 clutch 4 puck with the CC ultra light flywheel. from a stop, you had to rev to 2500ish and slip it in. then you could get zero chatter when it broke in. you couldnt drive it like the sotck clutch though. slipping near idle would result in crappy chatter. once you were moving, it was fine.
SOOOOOOO, i guess the big question, what kinda power do you wana make? my friend was gonna do the CM3 like me, but he wanted more then 500whp, and if the 500whp comes in early, you could see near 400tq, which the CM3 is not rated for.
1. i love my clutch. its perfectly fine in traffic, hard shifting, lazy shifting, from a stop or rev matching. holds like a SOB for my power, and should hold up to about 350wtq.
2. CC stage 5. my buddy put this in his stock s2k in preparation for a mase turbo kit. side note , it was stolen before the turbo. anywho, he did the CC 5 clutch 4 puck with the CC ultra light flywheel. from a stop, you had to rev to 2500ish and slip it in. then you could get zero chatter when it broke in. you couldnt drive it like the sotck clutch though. slipping near idle would result in crappy chatter. once you were moving, it was fine.
SOOOOOOO, i guess the big question, what kinda power do you wana make? my friend was gonna do the CM3 like me, but he wanted more then 500whp, and if the 500whp comes in early, you could see near 400tq, which the CM3 is not rated for.
well im going with Mase's kit but a 6262.. ill be fine with anything from 400-450 on pump, but if it'll push out 450+ without a problem then i'll see what it makes and settle somewhere under 500. 500+ on race gas for sure, number for race gas not set in stone yet, just gotta see what it makes.. Thats my power expectations roughly for now. Definitely dont care to break the 600's quite yet. So mid 500s for now at most, but my car will rarely see race gas. Only on track days, maybe 5 times out of the year at most.
and on your number 2. I dont have the flywheel, but i basically have to rev it to about 2k to get the chatter out when going off the light. I've gotten use to that no problem.
I think my main reason for wanting a different clutch, is not so much the engagement since I'm used to it. But because of the way the clutch/pedal seems to act up when going out of town or sitting in traffic. <<< That is 70% of my reason for wanting to get rid of this clutch. Its just been a PITA for me since 100 miles. Took it out of town to put about 300 more miles on it and just problems problem problems. Pedal feel, engagement getting worse as the pedal feel gets stupider..
My other reasons for wanting a change of clutch is the chatter, and having to rev it but thats whatever.. not a big deal..
If i can figure out why the clutch acts up in traffic and 100mile trips out of town and fix it, then I'll keep it. I've run out of ideas though, I already replaced the Master cylinder and the slave, bled it numerous times.
Also that weird grinding noise, anybody have an idea to what it may be? its only on occasion so it sorta think its clutch related, but it sounds to come from the diff region. idk..
and on your number 2. I dont have the flywheel, but i basically have to rev it to about 2k to get the chatter out when going off the light. I've gotten use to that no problem.
I think my main reason for wanting a different clutch, is not so much the engagement since I'm used to it. But because of the way the clutch/pedal seems to act up when going out of town or sitting in traffic. <<< That is 70% of my reason for wanting to get rid of this clutch. Its just been a PITA for me since 100 miles. Took it out of town to put about 300 more miles on it and just problems problem problems. Pedal feel, engagement getting worse as the pedal feel gets stupider..
My other reasons for wanting a change of clutch is the chatter, and having to rev it but thats whatever.. not a big deal..
If i can figure out why the clutch acts up in traffic and 100mile trips out of town and fix it, then I'll keep it. I've run out of ideas though, I already replaced the Master cylinder and the slave, bled it numerous times.
Also that weird grinding noise, anybody have an idea to what it may be? its only on occasion so it sorta think its clutch related, but it sounds to come from the diff region. idk..
ok, i thinkn i know what can fix your problem. you need to adjust your clutch pedal rod/slave sylnyder. bleedd the shit outa it, adjust it, bleed it again, check adjustment. then booya,, should be fine.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=142&t=699226
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw [/media]&feature=player_embedded
do this and 99% sure it will be fine.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=142&t=699226
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw [/media]&feature=player_embedded
do this and 99% sure it will be fine.
Id be careful with that guys hokey way of adjusting it. That prob works for POS dsm's but for s2k thats never necessary. Just adjust it to the factory spec, and youll be fine. As long as you grease the TO/TO bearing slide correctly, and all pivot points.



