thanks for response

Im actually NA temporarily, trading the turbo kit for a Vortech kit soon.

If you are making 375/231 on an 11psi pulley, I guess I can run a 12 psi pulley and advanced timing on E85 and still be within the limits. That should put me around 400/250 @ wheels I think.

You know how it is when you get to the tuner. You go there saying you will be happy with 9psi/350whp, by the time you leave you're running almost 14psi lol

 

12 psi on pump with a vortech and good exhaust should get you to 400whp I would think.

 

yeah thats the other thing,
I would like to keep my stock cat this time around.
I cut my OEM exhaust at the split & just welded 2.5" pipe to a single magnaflow muffler.

 

I've got an ACT clutch as well.. had it put on at 55k when I was NA. Been turbo charged 3 times, i have over 100k, and it still holds strong and no sign of crank walk.

 

Which ACT are you using?

 

yikes i can't remember nao. I don't know if it was the street or HP...either way..it holds and i have no issue.

 

I have the cusco clutch. It's really nice but again it pretty expensive.

 

What is difference between street vs. HP. Oem disc vs. Act street disc? I thought they were the same.

 

Nobody wants to pay for or worse perform a clutch job on this car more than once or twice. Here's what you need to know:

1. You must have enough torque handling capability (THC) to hold the max torque your engine delivers- or your clutch will slip and you will wish you were dead or

2. Clutch makers measure this in flywheel torque (FWT) not wheel torque. Worse they all think that whatever adjustment they made (other than paint color) to Honda's STOCK pressure plate (PP) is top secret

3. THC comes from three places:
A. Cannabis Sativa
B. Clutch disc material or design
C. Clamping force

4. A is cool; B is not terribly cool unless you're going to the drag strip and C is cool if you need it.

5. How much clamping force do you need? If you're making the stock 162 lb-ft at 6800 rpm your PP will not require a paint job lol. However for every lb of boost you make you will increase this “base” figure by 12 lb-ft to 15 lb-ft FWT depending on elevation, atmospheric pressure, supporting mods etc.

6. Most enthusiasts will be fine with the stock clutch up to about 7 lbs of boost. However I was able to make my stock clutch slip with stock torque until I figured out that I didn't really need the clutch delay valve (CDV)

7. 7 to 10 lbs of boost and you can pick any aftermarket clutch- they all have (about) the same amount of clamping force. Use the stock disc...everyone loves that OEM engagement!

8. If you exceed 10 lbs of boost the only reliable choice is the ACT PP. It has more clamping force than any of the other aftermarket clutches. I found this out the hard way running 12 to 14 lbs of boost.

9. Crank walk (CW) is real and you should be very scared of it. It's about the only thing that makes a clutch job look like a walk in the park. It also has nothing to do with clamping force

10. It has everything to do with release force (RF). RF equals pedal pressure. If your pedal pressure is stock or close to it you’re

11. The 2010 ACT HDDS PP has about the same pedal pressure as stock and will hold more torque than most of you will ever need. If you want an added layer of safety against CW- bypass your clutch safety switch as well.

 

^Doesn't the ACT pressure plate have a much harder pedal pressure? The ones I have felt seemed much firmer compared to stock.