Yeah, I don't think anyone that is going to spend $3-$4000 to upgrade a $32k car is making $8 an hour. I will probably go Vortech one day in the near future. And I have other Comptech parts now. I can just imagine what the intercooled kit will go for? $5-$6k?? The fact that most are making 320+ with the VAFC tuned is impressive.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Nobody
[B]I talked to Comptech today--their intercooler will be out soon.

 

I got to see (and touch) a Comptech Intercooler today!!!! Maybe another month or so? It's damn close to being ready.

 

Hey CMiS2k

Can you check your intercooler level or pack it with ice without taking off the strut bar?


fltsfshr

 

I actually had to take the STB off. It coverd about 1/8 of an inch of space that I needed to take the cap of to fill the intercooler up as the water/anti-freeze circulated into the system. So for now it is off. I will put it back on for the track and auto-x events. I am now looking for another STB that maybe angled back or forward to clear the cap.

It has been 104+ all week here in Texas and no power lag at all has been experienced. I had someone take a thermo reading of the discharge side of the blower 158 degress and the throttle body intkake side after the cooler 101 degress. The after cooler does work!!!

The denso IK27's are working awesome at .036 gap. I may close the gap up later.

I have a vafc hooked back up but all settings are ZERO for now. I am trying to get to the dyno next week.

btw, if you have a VAFC harness and you follow the Vortech instructions on tapping and splicing, then you can just Plug N' Play the harness back into ecu and oem wiring harness just as it is designed.

if you choose to splice and tap the harness, there is one instruction that you will still have to follow and that is the MAP sensor wire #17 on the 31 PIN connector will still need to be spliced as the directions state in the vortech manual and the splcing will be performed on the OEM wiring harness. Why? This is to keep the ECU from seeing boost. if you tap the VAFC harness the vafc will see boost and then the ECU will and then your screwed.

all other wiring can be spliced on the approprieate pin connector on the harness. Since all of the wiring on the harness is the same except for the wires that are already to go for the vafc you will need to find the corresponding pin hole and splice the wire that comes out of the pin hole.

I decided to post this information since I had such a hard time getting anyone to give me clear instruction on how to make the VAFC + Harness plug N play once again.

 

yeh but on the street vortech superchargers are known for easily blowing a cylinder or two (mostly for the civic si)
i rather get the comptech very reputable company

 

yeh but on the street vortech superchargers are known for easily blowing a cylinder or two (mostly for the civic si)
i rather get the comptech very reputable company [/QUOTE]
And Vortech isn't? You can't make a cross comparison like this. What it does for a Civic engine is not necessarily applicable here.

 

A civic needs several thousands spent on a rebuild in order to have a FI application applied to it. The Stock S is the engine these Civic racers dream of. What we have stock is what a civic and integra owner would pay money and donate there left/right nut to have in their car.

intercooled will reduce the odds of a blown cylinder because it will reduce the odds having detonation. Did you not read my post 55+ degree reduction in Intake temps. The comptech here in Texas would have been blowing hotter air than ambient into the intake.... Detonation? Also the comptech kit doesn't doing anything to pull timing like the vortech kit does, does it?

 

Let me see if I've got this straight? You tap the pressure sensor upstream of the voltage clamp for the V-AFC. That way the V-AFC sees the pressure, but then the voltage clamp (ESM or whatever) stops the ECU from seeing it. Correct?

 

yes, the ECU will see normal pressure. From what I can tell the pressure never reads over 2.5XXX volts on the vafc. You want the VAFC to still be able to read pressure, but you want to keep it from seeing boost, if the vafc sees more pressure than normal then it is seeing boost and then the ECU will get the reading and it will freak out.

Splicing upstream would be away to put it. No matter if you tap and splice the OEM wiring harness or the VAFC harness, you will need to still splice the #17 wire on the 31 pin connector "Up Stream".

I hope this helps. I can tell you that my car has not thrown a CEL or have I experienced any voltage related problems that would throw a CEL or any other light. I need to hit a dyno this week and do some tuning before an auto-x this saturday and a track day on Sunday.