Cooked/tweaked valves?
Laskey quoted me yesterday for a complete head build, containing Supertech nitride SS valves, Supertech springs and Ti retainers, Supertech valve seats, full head disassembly, hot tank, deck, valve guide check, 3 angle valve job, and assembly and shipping back for $900 total, that is a untouchablre deal!!!!
Originally Posted by boostedf22c,Feb 3 2010, 10:32 AM
I think if you keep it in the low 500whp range and a good tune, you should be ok.
I pretty much immediately saw issues once I was in the low/mid 600 range.
I pretty much immediately saw issues once I was in the low/mid 600 range.
Of course it will stay in the 400 range 95% of it's life..just as it did last summer.
Only turning it up a handful of times over the summer, or the 1-2 track days.
Still, this has me concerned.
Originally Posted by Bryan720,Feb 3 2010, 01:44 PM
Laskey quoted me yesterday for a complete head build, containing Supertech nitride SS valves, Supertech springs and Ti retainers, Supertech valve seats, full head disassembly, hot tank, deck, valve guide check, 3 angle valve job, and assembly and shipping back for $900 total, that is a untouchablre deal!!!!
Originally Posted by Evans Tuning,Feb 4 2010, 09:55 AM
I am bit surprised that people are having issues with the stock valves warping under heat. Are you guys drag racing (i.e 2 step and anti-lag) or street driving/highway pull type of driving? I have only had issues with the exhaust valves warping on our drag car with heavy amount of anti-lag/2 step. We'd get about 15-20 passes before I was seeing 60-75% leakdown out of the exhaust valves, but the car would run the same mph at the track regardless. High rpm seemed to seal them up just find under 30-40 psi, the trap speeds back up that idea as well. I know the Ecotec engines in the Pro Cobalts had similar experiences as well after a few passes (60 psi+), but ran good mph trap speeds.
My car would still run a decent number under boost, but I would notice a drastic decrease in idle quality. Eventually, after adjusting the valves like 10 times, 2 of the valves broke. In the mean time, this put a lot of wear on the seats too.
Good thing about boost.......haha. My old Subaru motor had 60%+ leakdown in all cylinders past the valves, and it still ran 10's. Actually, that motor, which was beat, was the only time I got into the 10's with that car.

What's strange is, I ALWAYS used stock valves back in the day in my 9 second FWD car, and never had issue. For some reason though, with the S2000, it just doesn't work. That said, with a drag car you often accept certain things that you wouldn't in a car you drive on the street a lot since you don't see much variable in the driving condition and type of driving.
I tried the 2 step one time while I was setting it up. Didn't "sound" right, so I haven't been back to trying it since...winter came to quick 
I spoke to a well known tuner about this yesterday, he said in some instances, some people who are making big power on stock components could be running ultra conservative timing which is causing their EGT's to be higher than normal causing the valves to warp.
I'm still going ahead w/my plans..see how it pans out.
I'll save the headwork until next winter.

I spoke to a well known tuner about this yesterday, he said in some instances, some people who are making big power on stock components could be running ultra conservative timing which is causing their EGT's to be higher than normal causing the valves to warp.
I'm still going ahead w/my plans..see how it pans out.
I'll save the headwork until next winter.
Just hope the worse doesn't happen and wipe out your entire motor. I got VERY lucky when my valves broke. VERY.
Typically it's catastrophic when that happens.
You also want to make sure that your VTEC is locked in while on the two step. This can cause some serious issues too if overlooked.
Typically it's catastrophic when that happens.
You also want to make sure that your VTEC is locked in while on the two step. This can cause some serious issues too if overlooked.






