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Coolant Temps in stop and go traffic on 90 degree day. Overheating?

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Old 08-13-2012, 09:21 AM
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Default Coolant Temps in stop and go traffic on 90 degree day. Overheating?

My coolant relavent set up:

Ptuning Turbo Kit
Water cooled GTX 3076 turbo
Koyo radiator
1.3 bar Koyo radiator cap
Brand new OEM Honda Thermostat

This weekend was the first long trip (over 300 miles) I took since I installed the turbo kit. Since the temp was pretty hot I closely monitored my temp gauges.

Below are the 2 sensors that I have and are reading from.

1) Honda OEM coolant temp sensor which is being read directly from the KPro through the PLX DM-150 gauge plugged into the OBD II port.

2) PLX coolant temp sensor is mounted in the upper radiator hose (read through the DM-6 gauge.

One thing that I noticed is that the two sensors reads different temps. The one mounted in the upper radiator hose always reads about 8 degrees higher (I concluded that this is normal because the sensors are mounted in different locations with the PLX temp sensor supplying the hottest coolant heading towards the radiator to be cooled) If I am wrong with this thought please let me know.

With the car MOVING (constant 55 -65 MPH) the temp gauges read around:

Honda OEM sensor (stock location): 188-204 degrees F

PLX sensor (upper radiator hose): 196-212 degrees F


In STOP and GO traffic the gauges read as hot as:

Honda OEM sensor (stock location): 216 degrees F

PLX sensor (upper radiator hose): 224 degrees F


I have bled the system a total of six times as per Billman250's directions.

I think that I may be overheating in stop and go traffic.

The single Spal fan the I have does turn on when the OEM temp reads 204 degrees F.


Do you think the temps above are normal or am I overheating?

If not what should I do to remedy this problem?

Thanks in advance.
Old 08-13-2012, 10:20 AM
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if your positive system is bled properly, then add a second fan and wire them to be on all the time. it def will help. this with the ac on or off?
Old 08-14-2012, 12:48 AM
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At those temps you are at the edge of overheating, I would recommend adding a second spal fan and also an Air Dam to increase the air flow to the radiator since your blocking it with the intercooler
Old 08-14-2012, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by camuman
if your positive system is bled properly, then add a second fan and wire them to be on all the time. it def will help. this with the ac on or off?
This is with the a/c on. I just purchased this:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp...t+bleed+funnel

This time I am going to bleed it with the engine running and see if it burps.
Old 08-14-2012, 12:23 PM
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Have you actually called PTUNING yet to ask them what they think is going on? That would have been my very first action.

-O'Brien
Old 08-14-2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by OBrien@PTuning
Have you actually called PTUNING yet to ask them what they think is going on? That would have been my very first action.

-O'Brien
Are you being facetious or do you have inside information?
Old 08-14-2012, 02:36 PM
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You went from two fans with nothing in front of the rad/condensor to one, added a large thick aluminum core in front and a thicker radiator core. Plus added a huge heat factory under the hood. Sounds about normal to me. Get the hood vented asap, and/or add another fan. Problem solved. By the time the air hits the radiator its already hot as hell and has been slowed by having to pass through the intercooler and condensor. Those temps are not astronomical for that setup. Try taking the hood off and driving around measuring the temps again. Then order up a vented hood or break out the cutting tools.
Old 08-14-2012, 02:39 PM
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also set the fans to come on sooner
Old 08-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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224F seems hot, in stop and go the fans kick on at 200F and usually highest is like 202F, usually never go above 200F
Old 08-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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Fwiw I disagree with needing a vented hood. My car runs great an cool. Ac on or off in south Florida heat.


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