Different question involving new build
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See this is where my head starts slamming the wall
..The bigger turbo from what im understanding isnt going to spool for the drift car like i would like. 320hp is what im shooting for. Since this is a drift car, im not shooting for crazy hp #'s like u guys hehe 
..
As far as the honing goes, the few shops ive called here act like they've never heard of FRM sleeves, im assuming they dont know how to do it. Would it just be easier to buy a naked short block and just throw the forged setup in it?
..The bigger turbo from what im understanding isnt going to spool for the drift car like i would like. 320hp is what im shooting for. Since this is a drift car, im not shooting for crazy hp #'s like u guys hehe ..As far as the honing goes, the few shops ive called here act like they've never heard of FRM sleeves, im assuming they dont know how to do it. Would it just be easier to buy a naked short block and just throw the forged setup in it?
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From: Raleigh, NC
Use the 63 ar gt3071r, it will come into boost pretty quickly and the throttle response will be amazing with the 2.4 liter engine.
the gt28rs is tapped out to make 320hp, ait's will be through the roof and you wont hold power to redline, the 3071 will.
the ONLY way i'd consider the 28rs is with atp's 86ar t3 turbine housing.
the gt28rs is tapped out to make 320hp, ait's will be through the roof and you wont hold power to redline, the 3071 will.
the ONLY way i'd consider the 28rs is with atp's 86ar t3 turbine housing.
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From: USA
Originally Posted by RedLineS2k10,May 19 2010, 07:16 PM
As far as the honing goes, the few shops ive called here act like they've never heard of FRM sleeves, im assuming they dont know how to do it. Would it just be easier to buy a naked short block and just throw the forged setup in it?
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry18498854
If you cant find a competent machine shop, you can hone the block yourself. I bought an Sunnen An-112 hone and honed mine when I rebuilt it. My catch can never sees any oil, so I guess it worked good pretty good, and yes my car is my DD. Here is the list of stuff needed to do it, right off of sunnens catalog.
Tools Required for High-Silicon Aluminum Alloy
Such as Porsche, Mercedes, Honda and Vega.
Tooling Required When Honing High
Silicon Aluminum Blocks
• AN-111, AN-112 or AN-815 Cylinder Hone
• AN-80 Quick Coupler
• AN-1060 Heavy Duty Drill Motor
• UN-60 Universal Honing Stand
• MM33-J63 Roughing Stone Set
• MM33-J85 Finishing Stone Set
• MM33-CO5 Polishing Stone Set
• MM33-FO5 Felt Set
• AN-30 Sunnen Silicon Compound
• AN-35 Storage Box
• GA-2125 or GR-2125 Dial Bore Gage
• MAN-845 Honing Oil
It can get a little spendy to buy all this stuff, but you dont actually need all of it. I actually skipped the mm33=f05 felt honing step, since the Honda manual does not call for it and It was hard to find.
Also I think the honda manual hone procedure is inferior to the sunnen hone procedure, but I guess honda saw sufficent results using only 3 of the 4 steps.
As for the procedure check the linked article below, however when they talk about the Xm27 honing stones, they were never actually released for sale. And I think you can subsitute the MM33-f05 felt and An-30 silicon compound for this step.
The article has some excellent information on why cast iron sleeves are inferior to pure aluminum blocks.
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/ne...cylinder-bores
Tools Required for High-Silicon Aluminum Alloy
Such as Porsche, Mercedes, Honda and Vega.
Tooling Required When Honing High
Silicon Aluminum Blocks
• AN-111, AN-112 or AN-815 Cylinder Hone
• AN-80 Quick Coupler
• AN-1060 Heavy Duty Drill Motor
• UN-60 Universal Honing Stand
• MM33-J63 Roughing Stone Set
• MM33-J85 Finishing Stone Set
• MM33-CO5 Polishing Stone Set
• MM33-FO5 Felt Set
• AN-30 Sunnen Silicon Compound
• AN-35 Storage Box
• GA-2125 or GR-2125 Dial Bore Gage
• MAN-845 Honing Oil
It can get a little spendy to buy all this stuff, but you dont actually need all of it. I actually skipped the mm33=f05 felt honing step, since the Honda manual does not call for it and It was hard to find.
Also I think the honda manual hone procedure is inferior to the sunnen hone procedure, but I guess honda saw sufficent results using only 3 of the 4 steps.
As for the procedure check the linked article below, however when they talk about the Xm27 honing stones, they were never actually released for sale. And I think you can subsitute the MM33-f05 felt and An-30 silicon compound for this step.
The article has some excellent information on why cast iron sleeves are inferior to pure aluminum blocks.
http://www.mmsonline.com/articles/ne...cylinder-bores
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From: New Orleans, LA.
Originally Posted by wadzii,May 19 2010, 07:45 PM
Use the 63 ar gt3071r, it will come into boost pretty quickly and the throttle response will be amazing with the 2.4 liter engine.
the gt28rs is tapped out to make 320hp, ait's will be through the roof and you wont hold power to redline, the 3071 will.
the ONLY way i'd consider the 28rs is with atp's 86ar t3 turbine housing.
the gt28rs is tapped out to make 320hp, ait's will be through the roof and you wont hold power to redline, the 3071 will.
the ONLY way i'd consider the 28rs is with atp's 86ar t3 turbine housing.
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From: United States
So where should i go guys?? Your knowledge far excedes mine on this topic. Its getting to crunch time on the build. Im so far over budget and time, i might as well build the f24c the way i want. So i need some input guys? What turbo should i run and is anyone interested in my gt28rs?? lol
Excuse the possible dumb question..But would lowering the redline down to say 7000? help with some of the power run off? The car made hp through the map, but the tq just took a fat shit towards the end. This map is probably a run or two before disaster struck. Any advice and help with parts would be awesome! Thanks guys
Excuse the possible dumb question..But would lowering the redline down to say 7000? help with some of the power run off? The car made hp through the map, but the tq just took a fat shit towards the end. This map is probably a run or two before disaster struck. Any advice and help with parts would be awesome! Thanks guys
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From: Raleigh, NC
on another note, if you are going to be competing with this car i would highly recomend going with an ap2 crank instead of doing the 2.4 engine, those have proven somewhat unreliable in racing situations.
with the 2.4 yes, back it down to 7000 rpms in the interest of it lasting a season.
IMHO, i'd run with the ap2 crank and some mahle 9.5:1 pistons with a gt3071. Depending on the rest of the setup you will have a very nice/fat powerband from 4500 to 9000 rpms and if its tuned right you will have awesome throttle response.
I'm not sure i understand the need for super low end power. Everyone i know that drifts their 240's and such are always trying to do things to make those pos sr20's rev out farther and not kill the valve train.
with the 2.4 yes, back it down to 7000 rpms in the interest of it lasting a season.
IMHO, i'd run with the ap2 crank and some mahle 9.5:1 pistons with a gt3071. Depending on the rest of the setup you will have a very nice/fat powerband from 4500 to 9000 rpms and if its tuned right you will have awesome throttle response.
I'm not sure i understand the need for super low end power. Everyone i know that drifts their 240's and such are always trying to do things to make those pos sr20's rev out farther and not kill the valve train.
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From: Annapolis MD
What about a Precision type turbo they seem to spool faster and make more power than Garrett. Like a 5557 BB or something. My guage shows 10 psi by 4k and I can hit 20 psi by 5k and I have the 6165 S. I can only imagine what a 5557 would do and should make good power out to redline.
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From: Raleigh, NC
The story isnt always about spool up time on the dyno, throttle response is the key.
from my experience (and i'll admit i dont have much with the newest precision BB stuff) the garret gt turbos have always responded quicker to throttle input in a RR/drift type situation and they are generally bullet proof, i cant say the same for my experience with precision.
a gt3071r should hit 20psi before 5000 rpms. The last car i built with a 3071 was a 84mm bore b16, it hit full 18psi at 4800 rpms
from my experience (and i'll admit i dont have much with the newest precision BB stuff) the garret gt turbos have always responded quicker to throttle input in a RR/drift type situation and they are generally bullet proof, i cant say the same for my experience with precision.
a gt3071r should hit 20psi before 5000 rpms. The last car i built with a 3071 was a 84mm bore b16, it hit full 18psi at 4800 rpms
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From: United States
Originally Posted by wadzii,May 20 2010, 03:34 AM
on another note, if you are going to be competing with this car i would highly recomend going with an ap2 crank instead of doing the 2.4 engine, those have proven somewhat unreliable in racing situations.
with the 2.4 yes, back it down to 7000 rpms in the interest of it lasting a season.
IMHO, i'd run with the ap2 crank and some mahle 9.5:1 pistons with a gt3071. Depending on the rest of the setup you will have a very nice/fat powerband from 4500 to 9000 rpms and if its tuned right you will have awesome throttle response.
I'm not sure i understand the need for super low end power. Everyone i know that drifts their 240's and such are always trying to do things to make those pos sr20's rev out farther and not kill the valve train.
with the 2.4 yes, back it down to 7000 rpms in the interest of it lasting a season.
IMHO, i'd run with the ap2 crank and some mahle 9.5:1 pistons with a gt3071. Depending on the rest of the setup you will have a very nice/fat powerband from 4500 to 9000 rpms and if its tuned right you will have awesome throttle response.
I'm not sure i understand the need for super low end power. Everyone i know that drifts their 240's and such are always trying to do things to make those pos sr20's rev out farther and not kill the valve train.
As far as the f24c setup, i do love it because of how nasty the tq gets, but then again people are running 600hp on stock internals and im blowing my shit up at 10psi at 300hp?? I dont know of a good tuner in this city nor a machine shop, or someone with any insight into this except for Dave's garage. It looks like im gonna just put a POS sr20 or Ka24 into it for now.. I traded my blown ap1, for this drift are and havent even driven the f***** car yet, (im serious). Its to the point of irritation now with this car.
The biggest hurdle is the machine shops in this city which i have yet to find one who even kows what FRM sleeves are. Anybody know what just a stock Ap1 short block cost??
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