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Direct Port Methanol Injection Setup

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by EternalLx,Feb 8 2011, 04:49 PM
I am not sure if you can rotate the float switch without causing the seal to break.. I just didnt hook up the switch at all.


Yeah your good there. Just twist it. Its just a rubber grommet. I've pulled mine in and out several times with no leaking issues.
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:15 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 8 2011, 10:16 PM
Yeah your good there. Just twist it. Its just a rubber grommet. I've pulled mine in and out several times with no leaking issues.
Thanks i'll try it out when I use up the meth in there
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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by spectacle,Feb 8 2011, 05:41 PM
That was the most complicated thing I've ever seen.
Really? Seemed rather easy to me?

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Old Feb 8, 2011 | 08:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by EternalLx,Feb 8 2011, 04:49 PM
Siadam fyi the AEM float switch doesnt work with the cmgs.

The polarity is switched. The AEM float switch is grounded when the tank is full but the CMGS is set to read ground as empty, so if you hook up the lines the low fluid fault will turn on even tho your tank is full.

I am not sure if you can rotate the float switch without causing the seal to break.. I just didnt hook up the switch at all.



Also I've completely tested the aquamist check valves in each line and it works great. Instant spray and vacuum doesnt open it. The flow is normal also.
I asked CM about my aem float and they said the same thing...I got one w/the kit, so I'm not sure if I can make that work or not. I'll figure something out, appreciate the heads up though.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 04:35 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by EternalLx,Feb 8 2011, 04:49 PM
Siadam fyi the AEM float switch doesnt work with the cmgs.

The polarity is switched. The AEM float switch is grounded when the tank is full but the CMGS is set to read ground as empty, so if you hook up the lines the low fluid fault will turn on even tho your tank is full.

I am not sure if you can rotate the float switch without causing the seal to break.. I just didnt hook up the switch at all.



Also I've completely tested the aquamist check valves in each line and it works great. Instant spray and vacuum doesnt open it. The flow is normal also.
Did you have to order 4 aqua mist check valves, or just one?

I am ordering this stuff ASAP
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #36  
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Joey, he used a check valve on each individual line, which would be 4 total.

I didn't go this route, I'm curious to see what the outcome is, and if it doesn't work out, I'll try it.

Here is what I finished last night.



Tonight, I'm going to try to get some things bolted up, figure out a place to mount my distribution manifold, and make a little mount for it.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #37  
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^^^^ nice! I like the idea of the 4 small check valves on each injector, this I think is a must to prevent all the drain back in the lines and distribution block- which is a fair bit to have under vacuum running. The part I don't like is that it will rob my 150psi pump of essential pressure/atomization, which means if I were smart I would upgrade to the 250psi pump, especially considering I was still going to use a smaller single injector on a two stage.

...and Joey, you decided to make the change to direct port?
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:19 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky,Feb 10 2011, 09:55 AM
^^^^ nice! I like the idea of the 4 small check valves on each injector, this I think is a must to prevent all the drain back in the lines and distribution block- which is a fair bit to have under vacuum running. The part I don't like is that it will rob my 150psi pump of essential pressure/atomization, which means if I were smart I would upgrade to the 250psi pump, especially considering I was still going to use a smaller single injector on a two stage.

...and Joey, you decided to make the change to direct port?
The best way, but most expensive is a solendoid on each line.

Most solenoids are ~$50/piece, so thats another 200 added into the price + more wiring/etc.

An actual injector would be ideal, b/c it solves both the jetting problem and the solenoid problem by combining both into one part.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Feb 10 2011, 11:19 AM
The best way, but most expensive is a solendoid on each line.
Yeah I’m using one in my set up, it works awesome, but the problem with this is they are pretty large, to make them effective you would still need to place them as close as possible to the injector such as were these mini check valves are. Do to the location of the injectors/manifold/size of solenoids it would at the very least be a real eye sore, but I don't see how we even have room to place them. The most logical and affordable way is with the mini CV and a large enough pump to offset the pressure loss associated with the cracking pressure needed x4.
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Old Feb 10, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by siadam,Feb 10 2011, 11:19 AM
An actual injector would be ideal, b/c it solves both the jetting problem and the solenoid problem by combining both into one part.
True, but what is the support system for this rout? fuel rail, cost of injectors, EMS or other type of controller? It would be a pulse type system just like our fuel injectors right? An EMS or complicated/expensive brain would need to be used, able to read MAP etc.
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