I guess we are all stupid

 

I guess we are all stupid

 

Im not suggesting that, no need to get so defensive. Clearly Im the stupid one as I couldnt diagnose the issue over a keyboard with the information the OP provided. All I'm saying is that trying to road tune a car with known issues by adjusting the RRFPR is not a great option (lets call that option 1), and that a visit to a tuner and do the analysis in a more controlled environment would be a safer option thats more likely to uncover any issues than what option 1 would be. You are claiming thats dangerous advice, and Im keen to understand why you think that is.

 

I had a similar setup. The original base Comptech kit, but no aftercooler and no engine mgmt. When trying to figure out what to do to up the boost, do it right and establish a target hp I spent a lot of time on Evan's site looking through setups and dyno results.

A fairly common comment from Jeff on individual supercharged cars with lower boost levels AND free flowing exhaust was the exhaust actually hurt potential power and how good the stock exhaust is.

My car pulled a 271whp with the base setup before the aftercooler, injectors, smaller pulley, AEM blah blah blah with a header and CT Engineering exhaust - cat still in place.

Your exhaust could be holding you back a bit and definitely get a wideband...

 

wideband ftw

 

wideband, ems of some sort, data log, kthxbye

 

We get it bro, youre knowledgeable when it comes to car stuff, and you drive fancy high horsepower cars blah blah blah. You dont have to keep trying to prove yourself on this forum. However, by going against the grain of what everyone else is trying to suggest to the OP and suggesting other non-tested, hypothetical occurrences isn't helping anyone. Stop stroking your own ego and spouting out a whole bunch of other random ass facts about cars and engine theory that don't even apply to this guys situation, because its not helping anyone other than yourself.

All the things that AE85 had said have merit, they are real possibilities, you COULD have a clogged injector or a coil going out that would cause AFRs to read lean when you actually arent running lean, however I have also had both a bad coil as well as an injector that wasnt firing (due to a bad PnP clip) and it is BLATANTLY obvious you are misfiring and there is an issue with the car. You won't just be "down 50hp" because a cylinder isn't firing correctly, the car will sound like a subaru, and it will run and idle like shit, plus I doubt you could even make a WOT pull without blowing that cylinder with the problem.

Also, "just fueling" does have an effect on power, however it is quite minimal, if you are supplying adequate fuel, you will make the same amount of power regardless of what the AFRs are. On an N/A engine at 12.0 AFR across the entire band, youre gonna make the same power at 11.0 and at 13.0, obviously 13.0 will run a tad hotter and 11.0 wont be as fuel efficient but the power will still be there. However like everyone else in this thread has been stating, if you are running a little lean and the knock sensor is picking up knock it will retard timing, which WILL kill power, especially on an F/I engine. So if he is running lean and the knock sensor is pulling timing to save the engine, there no doubt in my mind he could be down 50hp in that instance. It's not just having a better AFR that will yield the lost power, its giving enough fueling to get the knock sensor to stop pulling timing that will net the lost power.

 

We get it bro, youre knowledgeable when it comes to car stuff, and you drive fancy high horsepower cars blah blah blah. You dont have to keep trying to prove yourself on this forum. However, by going against the grain of what everyone else is trying to suggest to the OP and suggesting other non-tested, hypothetical occurrences isn't helping anyone. Stop stroking your own ego and spouting out a whole bunch of other random ass facts about cars and engine theory that don't even apply to this guys situation, because its not helping anyone other than yourself.

All the things that AE85 had said have merit, they are real possibilities, you COULD have a clogged injector or a coil going out that would cause AFRs to read lean when you actually arent running lean, however I have also had both a bad coil as well as an injector that wasnt firing (due to a bad PnP clip) and it is BLATANTLY obvious you are misfiring and there is an issue with the car. You won't just be "down 50hp" because a cylinder isn't firing correctly, the car will sound like a subaru, and it will run and idle like shit, plus I doubt you could even make a WOT pull without blowing that cylinder with the problem.

Also, "just fueling" does have an effect on power, however it is quite minimal, if you are supplying adequate fuel, you will make the same amount of power regardless of what the AFRs are. On an N/A engine at 12.0 AFR across the entire band, youre gonna make the same power at 11.0 and at 13.0, obviously 13.0 will run a tad hotter and 11.0 wont be as fuel efficient but the power will still be there. However like everyone else in this thread has been stating, if you are running a little lean and the knock sensor is picking up knock it will retard timing, which WILL kill power, especially on an F/I engine. So if he is running lean and the knock sensor is pulling timing to save the engine, there no doubt in my mind he could be down 50hp in that instance. It's not just having a better AFR that will yield the lost power, its giving enough fueling to get the knock sensor to stop pulling timing that will net the lost power.
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Well if people hadnt suggested I have no experience in forced induction I wouldnt have posted anything about the cars I have owned and built. Simple as that. Im not looking to prove anything, I couldnt care less about peoples opinions of me which should be pretty obvious. None of the facts I posted were random or unrelated. Here is the issue, there is probably a very small percentage of people that have a reasonable amount of knowledge. Then a whole bunch of idiots run around and parrot things that they think are absolute principles. This is how the scenario would pan out for the OP. He gets a WB02, then gets a rich reading (assuming he knows what the range is and can validate that through the rpm range at WOT). He then goes, damn better take it to the shop to get the fueling adjusted on the dyno to prove adjustments are netting more power and doing so in a more controlled environment listening for knock etc). OR he gets the WB02 and runs lean, then back to the shop for same reasons about. OR he gets the WB02, and the AFR is bang on, then back to the shop to diagnose the issue... all roads would safely lead back to the shop... just go back in the first instance. Thats all im saying

The funny thing is most all are saying get a WB02, dont see the same amount saying get a knock reader when you describe the effect knock would have on power... anyway, I hope the OP has it sorted

 

man you just cant help your self can you here are some pics from one of the idiot parrots to show how the rrfpr works and I am a factory trained Honda tech and I built race cars and 600cc supersport race bikes back when a wideband was 2000$ and plug reading was the norm but we yanks are stupid right so I will not post any more as this is just ignorant oh and the last pic is of my stupid car with its stupid supercharger

 

I think this quote is now relevant...

"We get it bro, youre knowledgeable when it comes to car stuff, and you drive fancy high horsepower cars blah blah blah. You dont have to keep trying to prove yourself on this forum. Stop stroking your own ego and spouting out a whole bunch of other random ass facts about cars and engine theory that don't even apply to this guys situation, because its not helping anyone other than yourself"