You really should install a wideband AFR and boost gauge, and not rely on a dyno/shop for those readings.

 

So what you are saying is you tuned it with your VAFC, if you didnt have a means of adjusting fuel dynamically over changes in rpm for example, then you are not really tuning. You dont need a windband, you need a tuning shop that has one and you need them to tune the car. I dont know of any track car that runs a wideband in the car.

 

Nope not familiar with that kit, I have owned / built a Porsche 944 to 400HP, have a track AE86 with 200HP 4AGE N/A, built a Supra with a 1UZFE turbo with 500WHP... etc happy to post pics and dyno plots

Adjustments in fuel enrichment would be done through the inlet air temp sensor in my world, not adjusting the pressure of fuel. Seems like a crude and inaccurate solution to do that.

A wideband post tune is only really needed if you are running in a closed loop to keep cruising fuel ratios right (they dont work quick enough under WOT).

 

Ummm I recommended to go to a tuner to validate whats happening, and you are saying dont listen to me, and then suggest going to a tuner to work out whats happening? Cool.

 

Yup, thats my advice to go to the tuner to log some stuff. Im not sure if you are running closed loop functionality, or your ECU capabilities, but I have mine (Vipec, which is a fancy Link) set-up to run open loop, and have oil pressure, fuel pressure, engine temp, oil temp, knock sensor, inlet air temp, EGT etc all wired into the ECU to limit load based on certain returned values, i.e. if engine temp below X, limit RPM to Y. Its kind of set and forget and can concentrate on driving

I did have a full innovate wideband setup years ago, but found it needed new sensors on a regular basis to be accurate (standard Bosch), the gauge does oscillate a bit, and I was sure I needed it at the time! Years later, didnt see the need for a track car at least, only needed for tuning and the shop I go to has a nice and very expensive Motec system with fresh sensors and they plug in the 4 EGT's at the same time

 

you are confused I adjusted the rfpr to give the proper afr at redline and used the vafc to lean out the low rpm and lower vtec. when I went emu I installed 650 cc injectors and stock fpr at 11 psi at 350hp my new car I have a 2.2l aem id1000 injectors areomotive fpr currently at 9 psi car makes 340 hp if I bump it to 11 psi I should see 375 hp, I was just showing that you can have different setup to go with the rrfpr not everyone can drop 2k on a fuel and engine management. so if you don't have anything constructive then be quiet and let the people on this forum how know what there doing offer advice so the op doesn't hurt his motor

 

you are confused I adjusted the rfpr to give the proper afr at redline and used the vafc to lean out the low rpm and lower vtec. when I went emu I installed 650 cc injectors and stock fpr at 11 psi at 350hp my new car I have a 2.2l aem id1000 injectors areomotive fpr currently at 9 psi car makes 340 hp if I bump it to 11 psi I should see 375 hp, I was just showing that you can have different setup to go with the rrfpr not everyone can drop 2k on a fuel and engine management. so if you don't have anything constructive then be quiet and let the people on this forum how know what there doing offer advice so the op doesn't hurt his motor

 

So you were not able to adjust fuel at redline with your VAFC? Weird.

The point Im making is if you have a proper way to control fuel (lets call that tuning and exclude timing and dwell times etc) by moderating the duty cycle of the injectors, and you can do this by increasing or decreasing that duty cycle by MAP or RPM or Throttle Position, then thats tuning, increasing or decreasing fuel pressure to uni-formally moderate fuel flow regardless is an extremely crude tool. Does the AFPR moderate fuel delivery and spray pattern, yup, is it a good tuning tool, nope, will it be adequate in some scenarios, yup, if you want to call that tuning, knock yourself out, I dont though.

Im not sure how my advise to go see a tuner and log the outcomes on a dyno would be advise that would hurt his motor. Interested to hear your thoughts on how that would be the case.

 

For the OP, other things to consider that others have not mentioned (i.e. stuff outside of your motor and tuning), what was the transmission correction factor used on the dyno? Did they have the right diff ratio loaded? What air temp correction was in play if any? Is their dyno calibration within spec?

These can all effect it, but probably not likely if the shop is any good...

If the recommendation is the OP get a wideband, why not add pyros in each runner as well, then add a knock sensor gauge too. The point is I dont think the OP appreciates all this, and is best to go to a tuner and play with some variables.

 

AE85 - The OP does not have ANY means to tune his car in the fashion that you are suggesting. He said he is still on the stock ECU. He can't just go to a tuner and have them "tune" his car. He doesn't have a standalone ECU, GEMU, Flashpro, or anything of the sort. The ONLY tools he has at his disposal are the adjustable rising-rate fuel pressure regulator and the electronic signal modifier unit (MAP clamp) that came with the Comptech kit.

I agree with you that attempting to "tune" the AFR curve by solely using an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a crude method. I think we (Junky, RAIN H8R, s2konroids, manic, and myself) would all agree with that. But with the OP's current setup, that is the best that he can do. He could take his car back to the dyno, have the tuner hook up a tailpipe sniffer and log AFR's, then adjust the RRFPR while on the dyno to make sure that the majority of his AFR curve is in an optimum range. I, personally, would call that "tuning". Perhaps this is just semantics at this point.

We were suggesting that OP purchase a $100-$200 wideband setup. By purchasing this setup, OP could actually skip the "tuning" session on the dyno if he wanted and just adjust the RRFPR on his own while monitoring how each adjustment changes his AFR readings on his gauge. I would imagine that the tuner would charge a similar amount for a few pulls on a dyno while adjusting the RRFPR. So why not spend that cash on a wideband setup that the OP can now use in the future to safely monitor his AFR and possibly make future adjustments to the RRFPR as needed due to climate change? OP needs to know his AFR's in order to properly dial in the equipment that he currently has equipped on his car.

OP is not going to go out and spend $1,000 on an AEM/Haltech standalone or slightly less on a GEMU (plus another couple hundred dollars on tuning charges) if all he needs to optimize his current setup is a simple wideband gauge system and a few of his own hours doing 3-4 street pulls.

Through the help and guidance of Junky, s2konroids, and old threads on s2ki concerning the matter, I was able to easily setup the RRFPR on my Comptech kit back when I was on 7 PSI using my wideband gauge and making a few street pulls with a buddy in the passenger seat. This setup netted me 290 HP on a Mustang dyno in the winter.