A bit annoying for me since I live in an emissions state. I guess I’m going to look into getting a different ecu so I can have the evap disabled. The tuning shop I went to recommended I get a hondata kpro ecu. Anyone have experience with a kpro, is it worth it over another brand?

 

The Kpro is a decent option, but you would have to change out some engine sensors for it to work properly and it can get complicated to setup IMO. What do you have planned for the car? If going boosted eventually, it would probably be best to go ahead and spend a little more for a more advanced ECU, like AEM or Maxx. If interested, I am actually selling my brand new AEM Infinity ecu and AEM s2k harness. You can PM me (or email me at inovatv@yahoo.com if you are unable to PM) if you would like more info.

 

That's a definite issue. Depending on your plans for the car, it might just be worth registering it out of state for the time being. In my case, my car is an 02, and I've just been riding dirty on expired reg since I've gone boosted - no fcks. Haven't had an issue yet for several years, I just avoid cops haha. I'm just going to ride it out for a couple more years until the 25 year rule exempts me. I'm so tired of this emissions nonsense in the fact that a neighboring state (MA) eased their requirements to 15 years whereas my state is still 25.....It's just total bureaucratic nonsense so they can piss off on getting paid taxes then. Kpro is old and not worth it imo, and it doesn't absolutely guarantee you a pass from what I've heard, but YMMV. Reinstalling all of that evap stuff will be a major pita....I'm assuming you also have the air pump removed as well?

 

Plan on keeping it na. Car has skunk2 headers,skunk2 exhaust,and a J’s racing intake. I’d like to avoid have to change out those parts for the hondata to work. I just want to get rid of my engine light for emissions purposes. Should I just go with the aem ecu ?

 

That's the problem. You need an OEM ECU in order to pass emissions (depending on state and how they do it). In my state they hook up to the OBDII port to check monitor readiness. Hondata can supposedly either spoof or disable those to varying degrees of success because it's using an OEM ECU with a sister board soldered to it. If they just do a visual check with maybe a sniffer and see no CEL you might be okay. The main issue is any aftermarket standalone ECU won't be readable at all, so it'll be an instant fail.

Here's your solution:

https://www.izzeracing.com/products/...simulator.html

And if your air pump has also been deleted:

https://www.izzeracing.com/products/...simulator.html

Those two are your absolute best bet. Only other thing I can think of to get you through the emissions fiasco is finding all of the stock junk to put back on (fck that)

 

Thanks a lot for the information, and yes the air pump is gone.

 

Are there any videos or guides on how to install that evap simulator ?

 

FYI, For those with an AP2 DBW 2006+, this will not work. T da B on post #40 only has half of the solution. He connected the pressure release hose (tiny hose) to the fuel pressure pressure (FTP) valve, which is just a sensor and goes no where. The setup that T da B has is simply venting to atmosphere with no pressure valve holding gasses in. In other words, air freely escapes and is ingested as fuel is consumed or gas pressure releases.

What I found through my research is that the AP2 2006+ gas tanks have a different vent float. On AP1, there is a separate tube for venting pressure, and breather for taking in fresh air. On AP2, there is just one hose that combines a pressure release and breather. The AP2 Evap system is different and uses the Evap canister to manage the gasses going in and out of the tank with different pressure sensors.

The solution:
The recommend Mocal/Newton valves that Kyle listed needs to be fitted on the main breather (large tube) for 2006+ AP2s. You have to cut the main breather tube connector off and expose the raw tube, which has an ID of about 15mm. Then you will need to find a ~15mm to 8mm barb fitting. The Newton/Mocal MOCTPV8 valve will work as a pressure relief and vent for fresh air.

 

Just another update, my $100 ACDelco charcoal canister has been working great for driving around at home, still no fuel smells in my garage. But when I'm in the mountains pinning the throttle for excessive amounts of time, the stock mufflers just cook absolutely everything in the back of the car, including the fuel tank. I still crack the filler cap when I can audibly hear the valve actuating after a run. Trying to figure out how to get more airflow back there and keep things cool.

On warm days, I can really see that the valve is working while I'm driving because my idle will be higher. My idle strategy is super lean so any tiny vapors coming from the tank through the valve will raise the RPM when I come to a stop. Once it's burned all the vapors the idle will return back to normal.

 

This thread is awesome - thanks for taking the time to document it. I implemented it. Very clean