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The new Vapor Trapper by shop48.co is a really good solution to the removal of the evap system when you still want to end the gas smell the comes from the removal of the oem system. Letting the vent lines stay open immediately allows the gas smell to be obnoxious. Look into the Vapor Trapper. It's easy to install and super high quality!
My car has been set up with the recommend configuration in this thread for a while. It works well, but on hot days the garage does smell like gas, and you can absolutely hear the pressure value open and let air through. It's a low humming noise.
My car's been up and running for a while, and was recently tuned so I have been driving it quite a bit. I can smell the gas at stop lights and in the garage when it's hot outside. I spoke with a few other people who also smelt the gas and added some sort of charcoal canister to help with that issue. Over the weekend I searched though google and that vapor canister that was posted above popped up. I noticed they were local so I swung by with the car to talk to them about my fuel evap set up, and if the canister would work. It seem like it's the exact thing I have been looking for.
The current plan is to figure out where to mount it, and what fittings I'll need to make it fit. Once it's installed I'll report back on if it eliminated the fuel smell.
Originally Posted by Spoolin
May as well keep the stock EVAP system if you're only going to change it over to that big contraption, just my opinion.
The stock EVAP system isn't going to work with any aftermarket ECUs. (I'm sure you already know this) You can leave everything installed but over time without the ability to purge itself the charcoal canister will absorb enough fuel vapors to start leaking. This has been a documented problem here for a while.
Everything they posted above isn't part of the set up. Most of that is the fuel cell. It's just the circular chamber that's being used to absorb the vapors. Like the OEM unit this will collect vapors and saturate the charcoal over time. The benefit here is that the unit is serviceable. You just unscrew one side of it empty the used charcoal and replace it with new material. For me this means that once I solve the problem it's solved permanently. I don't have to go buy another canister when this one is saturated because I can just empty and fill this and put it back into place. I should have an update for everyone in a few days.
Edit: I forgot this is in the forced induction section. It is worth pointing out that my car is on ITBs so I don't have the intake manifold to run the purge line back into the intake like a few people are doing.
My car has been set up with the recommend configuration in this thread for a while. It works well, but on hot days the garage does smell like gas, and you can absolutely hear the pressure value open and let air through. It's a low humming noise.
My car's been up and running for a while, and was recently tuned so I have been driving it quite a bit. I can smell the gas at stop lights and in the garage when it's hot outside. I spoke with a few other people who also smelt the gas and added some sort of charcoal canister to help with that issue. Over the weekend I searched though google and that vapor canister that was posted above popped up. I noticed they were local so I swung by with the car to talk to them about my fuel evap set up, and if the canister would work. It seem like it's the exact thing I have been looking for.
The current plan is to figure out where to mount it, and what fittings I'll need to make it fit. Once it's installed I'll report back on if it eliminated the fuel smell.
That AC Delco unit that was previously posted a while back that some have been using for the fuel smell control may be another less costly viable option.
The stock EVAP system isn't going to work with any aftermarket ECUs. (I'm sure you already know this) You can leave everything installed but over time without the ability to purge itself the charcoal canister will absorb enough fuel vapors to start leaking. This has been a documented problem here for a while.
Everything they posted above isn't part of the set up. Most of that is the fuel cell. It's just the circular chamber that's being used to absorb the vapors. Like the OEM unit this will collect vapors and saturate the charcoal over time. The benefit here is that the unit is serviceable. You just unscrew one side of it empty the used charcoal and replace it with new material. For me this means that once I solve the problem it's solved permanently. I don't have to go buy another canister when this one is saturated because I can just empty and fill this and put it back into place. I should have an update for everyone in a few days.
Edit: I forgot this is in the forced induction section. It is worth pointing out that my car is on ITBs so I don't have the intake manifold to run the purge line back into the intake like a few people are doing.
Ahhh, okay. If it's just that cannister, then this could be another viable solution. I thought it was that whole tank that was part of the system.
Basically just a billet charcoal canister that you can service. My plan is to keep all of the set up that's outlined in this thread, and have the pressure relieve valve plumbed to vent into this canister, then route the canister vent to somewhere inconspicuous. I'm really hoping that this takes car of the fuel smells.
Basically just a billet charcoal canister that you can service. My plan is to keep all of the set up that's outlined in this thread, and have the pressure relieve valve plumbed to vent into this canister, then route the canister vent to somewhere inconspicuous. I'm really hoping that this takes car of the fuel smells.
That one is pretty pricey at nearly $300.....A while back someone posted about using a AC Delco charcoal canister for the fuel smell. Those run about $100. Wonder how good those have been working?
BTW.....Did the vented gas cap work well? Noticed that you mentioned that. Is it a viable solution over doing what the OP wrote up?
That one is pretty pricey at nearly $300.....A while back someone posted about using a AC Delco charcoal canister for the fuel smell. Those run about $100. Wonder how good those have been working?
BTW.....Did the vented gas cap work well? Noticed that you mentioned that. Is it a viable solution over doing what the OP wrote up?
Yeah it's pricey, but it's a one and done. That AC Delco unit is going to need to be replaced at some point if you're just venting to atmosphere. You can't open and replace the internals on it. I just want to solve this problem long term and not have to go hunting for replacement parts down the line.
I have the gas cap, but I didn't use it. Someone else did and said it was basically he same as OEM.
Update on my setup: it was getting worse and worse until I discovered something that was aggravating the issue: under-hood temps. I was cooking the electronics in my engine bay because I'm tuned for more power, and had zero engine bay ventilation. Adding a carbon vented hood solved the heat issue and now boils off much less fuel in the fuel rail, both at idle and shut off. You can actually hear the difference, as it rarely "farts" into the canister. On the rare occasions that I park the car at super-high temps (race car mode), I simply crack the fuel cap while the engine is off.
What does "tuned for more power" mean? You're not boosted correct? That seems crazy that you're frying electronics in the bay because the car is tuned.
You are also still running a return fuel system right? I think that's also going to play a role in bringing the heated fuel from the engine back back into the tank, and help raise your fuel tanks average temperature causing it to need to vent more often. Why crack the gas cap? That's just going to release pressure the same as your set up with the pressure relief valve, only it's not going to go through the canister you added.
New charcoal vapor canister for the vent line
