First of all, thank you to Kyle and everyone else who contributed to this thread. I know it was a lot of work, and it is much appreciated.

I have a question regarding the 2 small K&N breather filters that are installed at the end of the vacuum and vent hoses that are connected to the fuel tank which are mounted to the un-used mounting holes left behind by the charcoal canister.

If the car is driven in the rain would this pose a problem of water getting sucked into the fuel tank since there would be a bit of vacuum in the hose(s) as fuel is pumped out of the tank?

 

If you do it my way (posted above) using a replacement ACDelco 215-153 charcoal canister, the "vent from canister" that goes to the chassis hard line to the engine bay, should be plumbed into the intake and not need a breather filter. The ACDelco 215-153 fresh air intake (left port) has its own cover to prevent splashes from going into the canister. The fresh air intake for the gas tank does not have a filter stock, and you don't really need it either. I put some foam on it anyway, held with a zip tie.

If you do it using the original posted method with no replacement vapor canister, I would not worry about water ingress as if you saturate it enough for fluid to pass it, then you've got bigger problems on your hands. The suction is minimal from fuel loss. It's mostly pressure to vent (tank to canister line) as the heat from your mufflers is evaporating the fuel in the tank at all times, and you should expect to always smell gas when driving. This is why you wouldn't want to do it as OP did for a street car and instead do it my way... I NEVER smell fuel, in my garage or driving.

The ACDelco 215-153 bolts into your subframe using the factory bracket and clears just fine. Hold the bolt heads to the bottom of the canister with hot-glue while you get them started, a couple taps with an impact driver will get them "torqued"

 

Thanks for the info. I'd like to use a charcoal canister similar to you but I have a few questions/concerns?

Can I just use the OEM charcoal canister instead of buying the ACDelco 215-153?

Did you install the Newton TPV8 check valve in between the tank and charcoal canister?

I am turbocharged, so with your set up connecting to the charcoal canister to the intake manifold will introduce boost pressure into the charcoal canister (and maybe fuel tank?). Is this something to be concerned about?

 

The valve goes between the gas tank and canister.
Correct, boost is bad. It would be attached to your intake, ahead of turbo. About the old canister, not sure but it's probably old and used up.

 

Thank you!….. I totally forgot about plumbing the canister “pre” turbo. I actually have my oil catch can currently plumbed from the valve cover to the intake pre-turbo. I can just tee off of that hose.

I have been reading a lot about this topic to familiarize myself about the evap system. It seems that the OEM evap system does not always open the purge valve due to testing of the system and allowing the engine to get up to proper operating temp (so that it doesn’t cause start up issues due to an overly rich air/fuel ratio). Having a more passive system such as the way yours is setup:

Have you noticed or smelled any fuel vapors coming out of your intake (after your car has been off and parked for an extend period of time, especially in hot weather)?

Have you had any start up or drivability issues?

 

Nice addition with the charcoal canister. I was considering adding one myself but that area is now occupied with an external surge tank. I may still potentially find a way to do it myself in a different location eventually.

If you would, post pics of how you got that set up and I'll add it to the OP post, giving you credit of course.

The idea behind me starting this thread was just to have more comprehensive documentation on how to fully remove the system and some ideas on what to do about the leftover hoses. A majority of it is just compiled info that I took in bits and pieces from various threads and sites, trying to give credit where it was due.

TL;DR: this thread was never intended to be an ends-all. I myself am always looking for better/cleaner ways to do things, so I appreciate people chiming in with ideas and alternatives!

 

Thanks for starting and contributing to this thread! I'll post up pics and explanations of my setup once I have everything in and working. It's nice to have this board where we can share info on our beloved S.

I have been brainstorming on how to set this up. I have ordered the TPV8. I'd like to use a charcoal canister as advised by AaronCompNetSys. The thing that I have been thinking about is also installing a purge control solenoid valve (It's a shame to find out that Honda has discontinued making this part, that leaves us with aftermarket only). If I were to reuse the oem purge valve I'd like to come up with a way to control it or use a vacuum triggered purge valve such as:


or


I am not sure what is the difference between the two, or at what vacuum do they open.

 

I was plagued with constant startup issues before I installed the charcoal canister. Since I've had it installed, it's only happened once and I think that's because I started and stopped the car multiple times while the gas tank was very very hot. I could hear the valve actuating instantly as soon as I turn the car off so there was a lot of pressure in the tank from heat. I think it even backfired out the intake later on and popped off one of the vacuum hoses that I did not have a clamp on. I plan to not stop and start the car a bunch of times like I did, anymore.
I have the canister purge line plumbed on the filter side of the throttle body and I'm thinking about moving it to the manifold side of the throttle body to get increased suction and drain the canister faster, not sure if that's a good idea. I'll probably wait for the issue to happen a second time before I make any changes. This makes me think that the new canister has less capacity than the OEM one.
If I go for increased suction then maybe I should consider a solenoid, but I don't want any electronic complication.

 

Are you tuned?

I am also concerned about start up issues but more concerned about drivability issues due to running rich while the charcoal canister is purging. I wonder if plumbing the canister back into the intake will cause any engine damage since I am boosted and tuned on Kpro. The ecu is not compensating for the added fuel vapors, except for maybe if the canister is only set to purge if the ecu is in closed loop?

I am trying to figure out how to pick up a signal from the ecu that shows that it is in closed loop.

Any ideas?

 

I'm tuned on Haltech. Mine drives fine with the extra vapors but not sure about yours.
Ask your tuner if it's safe, or maybe upgrade to a fuel cell.