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I just wanted to chime in and say thanks again for all of the work that went into this thread. I just ordered the valve and the two filters, and I'll pick up the rest of the caps and clamps later today.
I still need to do this, or figure out a way to operate the EVAP without the OEM ecu. Im on the fence about how much I want to dig into/reverse engineer the evap system to make it work without the factory ecu... sounds like too much work when I can just delete it lol.
FWIW the source of smell in my garage was my vent to atmosphere catch can, not the EVAP (yet).
I just installed everything that was shown in previous thread. I did not take out the hoses and cap the lines in the engine bay. First thoughts, I did hear the system buzz like the video while car was on. I assumed it was working. I went to the gas station and put in 4 gallons. I heard hissing sound from gas cap removed like normal. Drove home, I could hear system again. Drove few more miles and got home in my garage. Turned car off, then I heard the valve again much much louder since car wasn’t on. Sound was constant for about 15 seconds. Then went away, BUT I can still hear a hissing sound like it was still venting, I could smell faint fumes smell. I left to go in the house and 15 min later, I go back to the garage and the gas fumes smell was starting to get worse and I still could hear the small hissing sound from the new purge vent breather. I then opened up the gas cap and a big vacuum sound came from I assume the air vent. Now the hissing sound is gone. I relieved all the pressure now. Sooooo… my question is…why am I smelling gas vapors still? lol the whole point of doing this is not to smell gas in my garage after installing my AEM V2 . I did smell it bad with the charcoal canister with the car warmed up and driving but it didn’t smell when I parked it in garage. I hope I’m explaining this well. But the hissing sound and fuel smell went away after I took the gas cap off to relieve the pressure all at once instead of it slowly venting them rough the red purge valve.
The point of this mod is to remove a component that can no longer be controlled by the ECU and adds dead weight. Unfortunately the downside of this mod is that you will always smell gas. The vapors that used to go into the intake manifold are now just free to disperse under your car. The smell goes away when you remove the gas cap because you depressurize the system and there is no more pressure difference between the tank and the atmosphere.
The point of this mod is to remove a component that can no longer be controlled by the ECU and adds dead weight. Unfortunately the downside of this mod is that you will always smell gas. The vapors that used to go into the intake manifold are now just free to disperse under your car. The smell goes away when you remove the gas cap because you depressurize the system and there is no more pressure difference between the tank and the atmosphere.
I don't get much of a gas smell from my car, but maybe the faintest whiffs occasionally. The thing is, you're doing this mod when you've gone to a standalone ECU; in that instance most people are usually running a test pipe to get the most out of going standalone in the first place, whether N/A or boosted. So you'll occasionally get the raw fuel vapor smell, but almost certainly get the stink of catless exhaust. Pick your poison.
Vented gas cap makes more sense when doing this Evap mod. Instead of vapors fuming for hours while in garage through the purge valve, have a vented gas cap to make the process faster. If I open the gas cap , instant depressurization and no more fuel smell. Not sure where to even get a vented gas cap for this car.
Id be halfway interested in designing a circuit board to keep the evap system operational without the OEM ecu. Only problem is I don't know jack shit about how evap systems work lol.
There are a lot of control valves and a fuel tank pressure sensor. It shouldn't be too difficult to control if one knew what needed done.
There is a lot of information in the service manual on it. I might have to do some digging, but if anyone has a TL ; DR for how this system works (what valves need open/closed and when) I'd be all ears.
For what it's worth I believe the new LINK plug and play ECU can control the EVAP system. I haven't tested it personally on my car yet but I will shortly. I came across the ability to control the purge feature while digging around on their forums. EDIT: Here is a link to one of the many threads on their forums: https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/126...id-activation/ I'm not well versed in electronics and wiring. That's my next thing to tackle. Also for what it's worth if this works it's really only going to be a solution for me while the engine is stock. I don't know if I want to incorporate this in with my ITBs.
I also came across a vented gas cap that I ordered. From what I'm reading it's pressure and vacuum release which should be the same thing as the value if I understand correctly. That might be an easier less involved solution. I've talked several of the local boosted guys out here and the just run the cap without any fuel smell.
I have the value and the two filers that Kyle outlines on the way as well. I figure I'll swap the ECU on the car, see what I can do about getting it set up and running the EVAP. If I can't sort that out then I'll have both options at my disposal.
For anyone who wants a vented cap the part numbers are as follows:
Vented gas cap makes more sense when doing this Evap mod. Instead of vapors fuming for hours while in garage through the purge valve, have a vented gas cap to make the process faster. If I open the gas cap , instant depressurization and no more fuel smell. Not sure where to even get a vented gas cap for this car.
The valve only purges when there's a certain pressure in the tank. When the car is running this valve purges quite frequently to keep the pressure value in the tank equalized as fuel is consumed and air is ingested. When the car is not running the valve shouldn't be purging at all, aka no fuel smell. The only instance that would cause any sort of pressure buildup in the tank without the car running would be a very hot garage and a full tank of gas which would cause the valve to periodically release built-up pressure due to thermal expansion and vapor buildup, but nowhere near the extent that it would permeate the garage with the smell of fuel.
A vented gas cap like mentioned above is also an option worth considering and would be much cheaper and simpler. I just wanted to keep the tank vented and breathing through the orifices and valve it was designed around, so I simply expanded on a method that others before me had come up with. I'd be interested to hear how a vented gas cap works vs all of this because I plan on mounting a surge tank in the location where I currently have the valve and filters bolted up to.
