FI tuning
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: South Florida
Originally Posted by devs2k,May 20 2010, 01:48 PM
^I only use tuners with their own shops 
I guess Mase is probably one exception...
I guess Mase is probably one exception...
in SFL, the SFL forum has organized tuning days with mase and its been very cost friendly for what you get.
the more people there, the better your price is. i guess it helps too that he likes to come down here and he has lots of friends here.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: SLC, UT
Originally Posted by bluemetals2k,May 20 2010, 07:53 PM
my tuner has set prices on tuning no matter how long it takes to tune the car...which in most cases I believe is never more then 4-5 hours...he doesn't charge dyno usage/time its a flat rate 
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: No va
I've spent a grand on tuning and I'm about to go again. My personal preference though because I'm impatient and want my car on the road asap I don't necessarily have time to gain and learn and have the experience or patience to learn the soft ware atleast right now. price for in house tuner < out sourced tuner+ dyno time. I give mad props to individuals tuning and building very high hp cars themselves vs a shop keep it up 
Joined: Jun 2005
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Originally Posted by Spoolin,May 18 2010, 01:00 PM
For such a low boost, 7-10 psi, 17 deg of timing at the top should be just fine. Hell, I had mine at 16 deg of timing at the top on 93 pump gas when I was at 17 psi of boost and making 465 whp on my old 60-1 turbo, but at full boost hit it was around 5 deg of timing and thats because I was running much more boost than 7-10 psi. With the lower boost as youre running, 17 deg of timing at the top will be plenty safe and having it start at around 10-12 deg at full boost hit will be just fine. I know a little about how the timing should be from the years of talking with my tuner, looking at my timing map and watching it being tuned.
Its kind of hard to explain on here and give you the exact timing numbers, but at WOT, the timing map while not in boost should be similar to NA numbers and as boost starts to come in, timing starts to drop. Timing will slowly drop down as boost comes in and as full boost hits it will be at around 10-12 deg (being that youre only on 7 psi) and then slowly go back up to a peak timing of around 16-17 deg at around 7500-8000 rpm and hold there to redline.
Its kind of hard to explain on here and give you the exact timing numbers, but at WOT, the timing map while not in boost should be similar to NA numbers and as boost starts to come in, timing starts to drop. Timing will slowly drop down as boost comes in and as full boost hits it will be at around 10-12 deg (being that youre only on 7 psi) and then slowly go back up to a peak timing of around 16-17 deg at around 7500-8000 rpm and hold there to redline.
4k -1degree
5k -2
6k -3
7k -4
8k -5
9k -6
i guess it depends on the type of ecu/piggyback you use.
i tuned my car last time on the dyno and used the dyno to see if i was making any more power while changing the timing.@9.5 psi i was retarding 5 degrees @8k-9k and less before that.one thing i did notice is that the stock ecu retards timing from 8300-9k by about 3-4 degrees from the previous amount.
i will be going back to the dyno soon.hopefully with meth/water and 12psi and hope to make near 400hp
btw stock comptech runs 6psi and doesnt retard any timing
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^^^ that's right, and at 6psi Comptech, if you look at your timing chart you listed there, that also happens to be a good reference for how much boost it makes at that rpm. 1psi 4k and so on.... That's why comptech didn't bother with retarding timing, just wasn't necessary with the factory curve and the curve of the SC, its a perfect match up, to about 9psi you can get away with no timing reduction as long as you run enough fuel I have found.
That's why comptech didn't bother with retarding timing, just wasn't necessary with the factory curve and the curve of the SC, its a perfect match up, to about 9psi you can get away with no timing reduction as long as you run enough fuel I have found.
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From: Martinsburg, WV
it took me awhile to learn my way around aem coming from hondata, which is for dummies, very easy to learn gui etc..
but its not hard, its all about knowledge, a degree in thermodynamics helps alot.
it also helps being best friends with your tuner..lol
but like said before, books.. theres one , i forget its name, but search on amazon for , internal combustion, or theory concept engine, something like that, its around 60$ but its well worth it.
wow, i had to edit this post alot ..i am still drunk from the beach..sorry
here The Internal Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice..ver 1
this one too tunin
but its not hard, its all about knowledge, a degree in thermodynamics helps alot.
it also helps being best friends with your tuner..lol
but like said before, books.. theres one , i forget its name, but search on amazon for , internal combustion, or theory concept engine, something like that, its around 60$ but its well worth it.
wow, i had to edit this post alot ..i am still drunk from the beach..sorry
here The Internal Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice..ver 1
this one too tunin
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