is that the welder from harborfreight? i beleive it goes for like 200$?

 

yeah

 

i could weld just as well with my scratch start machine as with my machine with high freq.

 

i can get a kit that bolts on, includes
large 24x12x3 core intercooler
2.5 polished charge pipes
all couplers and t bolts
and 50mm BOV

$600.00

 

Nice, is that from a retailer or is that what you would charge me? And doesnt the FMIC for a SC loose alot more boost than say the AC?

 

well i finally picked up the car from ISP today. i would definitely take my car back there. the guys there are really cool and helpful and genuinely want to get your car tuned and fixed to your satisfaction. i ended up having to take off the fmic because it was losing too much boost and the intercooler wasn't cooling the air. i guess i can understand the boost loss because the insides of the piping weren't as smooth as we would have liked. but the failure of the FMIC to cool the air is what puzzles me. it is not a cheap eBay intercooler. it is an Ultimate Racing one intended for up to 12psi or 400whp regardless of the outcome, i still don't consider the endeavor of the custom FMIC completely fruitless. it cost me about $300 ($200 for the fmic which i plan to sell) and it was my first exposure to real fabrication from which i learned A LOT.

so i'm making a max boost of 6psi and 270whp/~160wtq. i was told by more than one other customer that the Dynojet at ISP reads inexplicably low for some reason. also i heard that having a higher fd ratio (4.77) makes the dyno read lower

sometime this summer i plan to install the Comptech aftercooler, or maybe get the full Ultimate Racing FMIC kit if i up my boost to 10psi. i was also told i should get a catch can because my dipstick pops out every once in a while when the car is driven hard

also, right after i left ISP my clutch started slipping on redline shifts and whenever i suddenly gunned it anywhere above 4,000rpm. since it happened so shortly after installing the SC, i guess it was already wearing prematurely due to driving on a leaky master cylinder for about 9 months.

right now i'm just happy that it's drivable and i have my car back. but it's going to the body shop to take care of a bunch of small things i've been meaning to get around to. i hope to have my car complete both cosmetically and performance-wise by the summer.

 

How did you read the intake temps? I'm sure your FMIC will work better driving around rather than on the dyno.

 

Wow im suprised the intercooler was loosing to much boost, on the previous setups people did here it seemed to lose 1-2 lbs. If your using the stock comptech 5.5 psi pulley and lose 2 lbs so 3.5lbs? maybe thats what did it?

IMO Id try a 7psi pulley and see what the results are. Being said that most all other people had great results with the FMIC on S/C setups.

 

i'm using a 7psi pulley and made 3psi max with the FMIC on. now it has the plain Comptech intake tube from the blower to the TB and it's making 6psi max. i'm thinking maybe the blower needs a rebuild? it has 30k on it and wasn't used for some time.


with regard to the FMIC thing--the insides of the piping had precipitation from the welds, so it was not 100% smooth. i'm guessing that's what did it. i will most likely get the full UR kit eventually. it's cheaper, has better cooling, and looks much better than the CT aftercooler.

 

Hmm 4psi loss, somthing has so be wrong.

It could be that the blower needs a rebuild, im eager to hear from somebody who has more understanding of the novi 1000 chime in.

BTW your pics are not loading, Id love to see them.