i can email you them later, just pm me your email. one pipe had like 10 welds in it within a 1 foot length of piping. i'm thinking the precipitation on the inside of that one pipe was what lost so much boost.

 

oh i also think i should relocate the HKS mushroom intake filter to near the headlight hole since i don't have fmic piping there anymore. right now it's very pathetically clamped to the front of the blower right behind the radiator fan

 

You had that RFL on there right? Did you check to make sure it wasn't a massive boost leak?

 

sucks about the bad results. Just for reference though I made 290 whp on the ISP dyno with my non-aftercooled Comptech before I had gears, but my A/F was a little suspect. What were you using to tune again, VAFC?

 

the RFL actually didn't leak. it wasn't set right on the flange, and ISP couldn't get it on right either. so they sealed the BOV/flange gap with JB weld and verified there was no boost leak anywhere. even after all that, it only made 3psi.

 

Neo. sounds like we could have actually been making the same thing, considering i dynoed with 4.77s installed, intake filter right behind the radiator fan, and i need to change my valvecover gasket and do a valve adjustment.

 

[QUOTE=nightcrawler7188,Jan 31 2008, 02:39 PM]or maybe get the full Ultimate Racing FMIC kit if i up my boost to 10psi.

 

The UR kit look good to me but kinda expensive MSRP 900 without the BOV

 

we eliminated that nasty U-bend, but it didn't make a difference lol. i'm sure the insides of the piping on the UR kit are much smoother, and that's probably what makes all the difference. we also used 2.5" because according to my research, 3" would have been overkill for a 7psi pulley.

 

2.5" seem right and I think the UR kit use the same size but my question is on the UR kit even it have the U-Bend they claim that they only loose .5lbs on the dyno. can the person that bought the UR kit varifty that. and also how much is the weight different compare to a aftercooler kit??