Forced induction S2000 long term reliability.
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From: West Linn, OR
Originally Posted by spectacle,Nov 10 2010, 11:21 AM
That is a killer powerband. Love it. Tune looks spot on too
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From: USA
Originally Posted by mezzfin,Nov 10 2010, 09:32 AM
Near stock reliability? Not going to happen. That's not to say you cant't get a good DD out of a turbo or SC setup, and the tinkering you mention isn't necessarily going to change your ability to get from point A to point B. The OEM motor has a brazillion hours of engineering put into its reliability, and even the best of FI kits can't come close to that. IMO, the real culprit is the addictive nature of boost. Could you get a used GReddy kit, keep stock exhaust, etc, and get a fun to drive DD with 275whp and 200 in torque? Sure - easy (300-350 is starting to leave the "mild" category). Will you live with that as your DD forever? Unlikely! Chances are you'll be back for more, and that's where the tales of blown motors start 
Whatever you do, invest the time and $ to get a quality installer and have it tuned properly. The good ones will understand you want to run it "in the green zone" and talk you off the cliff if they see you going there. Good luck!
Whatever you do, invest the time and $ to get a quality installer and have it tuned properly. The good ones will understand you want to run it "in the green zone" and talk you off the cliff if they see you going there. Good luck!
Well put
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Originally Posted by SlowTeg,Nov 10 2010, 03:00 PM
That's what I was honestly most concerned about.. I've always been of the mentality that the turbo drain has to do actually that, drain. With the oil drain going to the drain bolt, it'll essentially always keep oil backed up in the drain tube upto the level of the oil. The question is, does this cause problems for anyone? I've always thought that this is a bad/lazy way to implement the drain..
For oil changes then, is the drain plug basically a banjo bolt w/ two washers (one on each side of the drain fitting) that you change each time? While I do like the simplicity of the drain, I'm not sold on it, and wonder if it's bad for the turbo at all long term..
Do many people opt to weld a fitting towards the top of the pan (which is how it's usually done) rather than use greddy's drain going to the drain bolt location?
I wouldn't worry too much about the hose clamp failing if you attached it properly. There are plenty of hose clamps and the like that hold our cars together for critical parts/systems.
For oil changes then, is the drain plug basically a banjo bolt w/ two washers (one on each side of the drain fitting) that you change each time? While I do like the simplicity of the drain, I'm not sold on it, and wonder if it's bad for the turbo at all long term..
Do many people opt to weld a fitting towards the top of the pan (which is how it's usually done) rather than use greddy's drain going to the drain bolt location?
I wouldn't worry too much about the hose clamp failing if you attached it properly. There are plenty of hose clamps and the like that hold our cars together for critical parts/systems.
This setup doesn't seem to have any draining issues, or at least I've not noticed mention of them in the time I've spent in the FI forum. It's definitely not a great solution, but seems to work so far. Some people do tap and/or weld in a bung above the oil drain, and I intend to become one of them. The pan is easy, so I'll just tap it. Others prefer to penetrate the girdle.
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After quite some time with my Greddy kit, and I already have the need for more power. No doubt about it, that you will get issues no matter which way you go.
How long and efficient the motor runs highly depends on how and WHO tunes it. That will give you a peace of mind for quite some time knowing you have a good, reliable tune.
How long and efficient the motor runs highly depends on how and WHO tunes it. That will give you a peace of mind for quite some time knowing you have a good, reliable tune.
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