My friend got this kit for his s2000 along w/ full 3" exhaust. Are there any general suggestions on what else he would need? For now he's leaving the stock clutch, halfshafts, and differential... how bad a move is this?
Also should he keep the Greddy E-manage in there? What can/can't you do w/ that setup? Why get teh AEM instead?
How about head gaskets. Should get the 2mm headgaskets to be safer?

Just some general tips on where to go from here would be nice. Also if this is been all discussed before, please point me in the right direction(not a search bar link) thanks!

Edit: Also does anybody have an online copy of the install instuctions? If so please email to firoze@rutgers.edu ... thanks

 

I'd suggest picking up a helms manual. May also want to reconsider where you tap for the oil return (I didn't do the block). Finally, I went with an AEM EMS rather than the eManage, so I can't speak to that. I did the whole install in my garage, just take your time.

I emailed you the Word doc (Its a year old and maybe UR has a new version). I'm surprised they shipped you a kit w/o any instructions.

 

If his clutch isn't slipping then I guess he can keep going on it. Just tell him to not launch his car from a stop and his drivetrain SHOULD be okay.

The standalone is much more capable of tunability and is overall a much better method of engine management. But it MAY be a little overkill if he isn't boosting that much. It is just a lot more costly for the standalone.

My kit came with an installation CD complete with pictures and everything. I too am surprised you didn't receive anything.

If you have any further questions you can PM me.

 

Good point on the clutch: I replaced my clutch/flywheel with a spoon setup prior to insalling the turbo, because my clutch was getting glazed/slipping from some autoX events, so you may want to consider doing that - but you can certainly see how it goes and do that later. Just remember there will always be a weak link, so if you have super sticky rubber, and a strong clutch, with gobs more torque, that leaves your tranny and diff. People have reported that the transmission is quite strong, but the differential is another thing. I simply don't do hard launches anymore.

If you are going to do any "real" tuning, get a wideband O2 sensor. The nice thing about the AEM EMS is that it plugs right in and you can use A/F ratio readings to retard timing, add fuel, etc.

At the end of of the day (with tools, odds and ends, and tuning) expect to spend twice the amount of the kit hardware; you might get lucky and have money left over

 

That may have been a bad move on your part. I made sure to research on this and where UR tells you to put the drain at the block is the best method. I know of one S that the drain was put high on the oil pan instead and his turbo ended up coking up because of poor drainage and back up. Warranty did not cover it either.

 

yeah - that was me (maybe other people too?). But in retospect, I had WAY too much return hose which actually went BELOW the level of the oil in the oilpan, not allowing it to flow into the pan easily. I've reconfigured it (direct flow to the pan) and have had no issues since the turbo rebuild.

I see nothing at all wrong with mounting the return where UR suggests - its just that it was physically impossible for me to do with the tools I had w/o removing the block, and if I had made a mistake its a lot cheaper to replace an oil pan than a block.

I'll chalk up the turbo rebuild to a lesson learned the hard way...

Note: I tapped it where vortech suggests.