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HELP! Doesn't hold compression in CYL #4 after ILP

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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 10:20 AM
  #21  
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I helped Max with all of this work, to answer your questions...

RTV sealant was added on the front of the head, followed the FSM word for word.
Anything with the valve train wouldn't allow coolant into the block. Thats why I think there is NO problem with the valvetrain, but more in the headgasket itself.
NO external HG leaks at all. Only #4 cylinder has coolant inside.
There is only 1 way to put those HG on, so you cant put it on upside down.
This has nothing to do with the compression tester, or numbers, #4 cylinder has COOLANT in it, thats our problem right now!
Dont want to RUN the vehicle until the engine is in proper working order.
As far as I know, the engine was in good condition prior to install, head was removed in a 3 step de-torque sequence, via the FSM instructions. So it seems any chance of warping should be out of the question.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 11:31 AM
  #22  
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just because you remove the head bolts in a 3 step sequence it doesnt mean that the head wont warp. in anycase pressurise the cooling system and make sure that coolant is leaking between the gasket. if it is take the head off and inspect the gasket and check both surfaces for straightness.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 11:33 AM
  #23  
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I didnt mean for you to think i was poking fun at you for your HG problem if it came across that way. I was just stating that its weird some people hve these odd issues and some dont. I hope you get it resolved. One thing you can do is order a new Honda OEM HG and split it and put it on the 3mm plate and try again.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #24  
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Its either the HG or the block is cracked. Just pray its the HG.
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 03:12 PM
  #25  
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The coolant issue wasn't emphasized enough. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 06:51 PM
  #26  
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Got a tech to do a leakdown for me. Looks like either the headgasket, or warped head....

So I guess i gotta take the head off again....
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:14 PM
  #27  
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It's probably a warped head BUT...

Buy some ARP head studs and replace the used head bolts one at a time from the middle out in the tightening sequence but only to 75 ftlbs, then tighten in sequence to 80, then again to 86.

If you're lucky this will fix your problem without too much work.

If it doesn't, your head is really warped. Take it off and machine it straight and do it all again.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 04:03 AM
  #28  
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yah, that sucks im sorry to hear that..I would try what auss2000 said first with arp studs to see if that does anything if not than pull the head. Sorry about not adressing the cooling situation I didnt really see that, I thought it was just not holding compression... good luck
Jordan
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 11:03 AM
  #29  
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So you think if i get some ARP head bolts i may not have to remove the head??? I might wanna try that first i guess.....
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #30  
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And what about re-using my 3mm head gasket??? any thoughts?
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