S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Inline Pro 6265E Build - Mase Tuned

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Old Feb 26, 2009 | 07:59 PM
  #21  
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What is the air temp sensor kit?

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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 07:11 AM
  #22  
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That head gasket looks sweet! I cant wait to see how that works out.

I also have the 5965B but my turbo isnt water cooled and I think my AR is larger on the exhaust than .63.. I'll have to check on that.

My blowoff valve is also some weird looking dual exit that I got from them.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:08 AM
  #23  
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nice build & pics

I have installed about 10 different inline pro kits, and this is what i would change if i we to install one on my car, i would have the manifold thermal coated ($90).
i would weld a vband to the turbo output and modify the downpipe (these are a pain in the ass to put on and the bolts either break or fall off over time.) these 2 simple changes will make the life of the kit last/look much beter. where the charge pipes go thru the openings in the inner fenders - cut them a little bigger, and slit a piece of hose and wrap around metal edge, have had several over time rub and put holes in the charge pipes. on passenger side with ac lines - becarefull to wrap them from rubbing - have had 2 rub holes in ac lines after a few years.

i would also extend the dump pipe, it is to short and in time will cover your tranny with black soot, and it is a real mess.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:40 AM
  #24  
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looks good, i see you got the arp studs for the manifold. Mine have been perfect...no bolts backing out, no studs breaking, perfect...ARP FTW!!

I used to get that red color when i ran a lot of octane booster with a certain additive in it. I usually run sunoco 110 if im running race gas and it makes everything white with the residue of lead.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 2big4aS2000,Feb 27 2009, 09:08 AM
nice build & pics

I have installed about 10 different inline pro kits, and this is what i would change if i we to install one on my car, i would have the manifold thermal coated ($90).
i would weld a vband to the turbo output and modify the downpipe (these are a pain in the ass to put on and the bolts either break or fall off over time.) these 2 simple changes will make the life of the kit last/look much beter. where the charge pipes go thru the openings in the inner fenders - cut them a little bigger, and slit a piece of hose and wrap around metal edge, have had several over time rub and put holes in the charge pipes. on passenger side with ac lines - becarefull to wrap them from rubbing - have had 2 rub holes in ac lines after a few years.

i would also extend the dump pipe, it is to short and in time will cover your tranny with black soot, and it is a real mess.


Thanks for the heads up, in addition to what you have included I think I will fab a bracket for the charge pipes to keep them from moving as much. I will also add a bracket to the exhaust which I can attach to the block like the factory used.

As far as the exhaust is conerened, I probably will add the vband and vband a cat so I can pass the inspection in my area, (All you need is a Cat and no service engine light to pass).

I will probably have the dump tube recirced to the exhaust though I am unsure right now.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #26  
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this is kind of an unrelated topic but do you use Chevron gas?
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jzz30,Feb 27 2009, 11:22 AM
this is kind of an unrelated topic but do you use Chevron gas?
techron has a lot of addictives that can do that to your plugs and internal parts.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:47 PM
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1:5 Ratio Pump 91 an VP 110

I added the VP before the dyno and tear down b/c I have a 3 month old tank of gas.

I you really pay attention to the head you can see the signs that #1 cyliners valves were not sealing well.
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 09:58 AM
  #29  
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Dsddcd: Could you take more pics of the headgasket? I did not see the coolant passage sealant in those shots.. thanks!
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 12:24 PM
  #30  
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-BOV has no locknut / Jam nut to secure the adjustable position
There is a lock nut in the picture of the BOV. That nut on the adjuster locks it into place by tightening it down against the top of the BOV.

It doesn't need to be that tight, so don't go nuts and strip the threads off the adjuster...
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