Well I have been wiring soo much my fingers are starting to bleed. Here is where I started and went on from here.

Boost Controller
D4......High Side Driver......Output......Available Switched +12v. 1.5a max
D16.....PW #2....................Intput......Available Boost Solenoid
**This is not polarity Specific

Pressure Sensor
Black......D9....Sensor Ground..........Input.......Availible Ground Reference
Red........D6....+5V Sensor..............Output......Available 5.0V Reference
Green.....D8.....ADR14.....................Input.. .....Available, 0-5v input (100K pu)

Boost Switch Input [High Boost Switch]
D11......Switch #2....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground

Nitrous Input
D12......Switch #3....Available Switched Input
To Chasis Ground

Intake Air Temperature
Must be wired into the factory, according to AEM unless you open the EMS and change one of the RTD/EGT input jumpers there is no extra tempeature sensors availible.

 

Just thought I would add this for all those installing an EMS.

I wanted to make a fail safe High Boost / Nitrous Map switch so I sat down and came up with this. It is not perfect but I am pretty happy with the results. This will also integrate well with my methonal injection when I get around to it.

For those, like me that go cross eyed looking at this stuff, it works like this. You push the button, which I have mounted in the console, that activates the High boost and Nitrous Map. Then if there is any problems where the ECM or Serial Guage would send a warning to the Check Engine light then, that signal will break contact to the Nitrous and High Boost switch until the problem is cleared.

If I was doing this again would probably replace the push button switch with a momentary push button and latching relay but this will work for now.

 

I know who to ask when it comes to wiring now.

 

I was reviewing my build and I forgot to post this little beauty.

It is used like an electronic stethescope so that you can hear preignition before it is loud enough to hear over your exhaust. Using a 3.5mm jack this is plugged directly into my stereo. I attach on of the clips in the front of the engine and one in the rear. The audio is then split into right and left channels which helps isolate the individual cylinder with issues, if just one.

The entire thing cost $20 to build and was very easy. All I needed to do was unsolder the microphones from the board and then use some wire to extend the microphones to the clips. Using some epoxy I glued the mic so that the receiving side of the mic was facing the metal on the alligator clip.

 

I wouldn't give me too much credit I have yet to install it.

 

It works now but my first diagram was logiclly correct but in practice did not function.

 

Update..

Why isn't this car running yet?

 

So I need some help, I got the fuel talbles lined up so that I could turn on the O2 Feedback and it drives nicley. Pulled the plugs and other than being a little rich they were clean.

However I am have a terrible time with the car idleing and burning oil. It does it when it is up to temperature and only at idle. As soon as I give it any kind of throttle it goes away even with no load. Now based on my plugs I am 95% sure I have a leaking turbo seal but I would be insterested in someone elses opinion.

 

It is very possible, I have noted in many posts about the wrong restrictor in the precison turbos and they can blow out at start up. It has happend before to others thats why I went with the BB precision turbo. Still waiting on my car, Ptuning is still tryng to get it tuned it is only running up to 8400 rpms and they need to increase my notch cause the turbo was hitting the frame. Good luck. I hope you get it figured out.

 

Yeah, I am running a 5965b-b which is a ball bearing cartridge. I checked the intake side of the turbo and it was dry but I have not pulled the DP yet.