inlinepro TCT
I had pm'd ya before. if your running the 3mm headgasket he had said it gets rid of the slack in the chain that happens over time so its not a issue and IP tensioner isnt needed . So im assuming that this tensioner would break chain or the possibility too and inline doesnt wanna have motors break and get bad p.r. .
I see red star motoring runs this now in there high hp s2k. im assuming something is done to make this better.
I see red star motoring runs this now in there high hp s2k. im assuming something is done to make this better.
So i guess i have the only real solution to this problem, STILL.
Which makes me feel good.
I have alot on my plate and so i havent really "offered" the solution.
Most of what i have found, is already known. but......
It seems the number 1 problem is oil volume to the setup.
Over 2 years ago i began modifying the body of the tensioner by drilling the oil inlet port. I doubled its size, to .060" (thou of an inch.)
I simply retension the springs (stretch) and reassemble. I then have the person switch from shitty mobil1, which is what almost all the problem cars have, to valvoline 10/40.
Thus far i have not had one tensioner issue reoccur. And i have probably 25 out there.
There is an oil jet bolt in the end of the tensioner, it decides what volume of oil gets to the worm gear. So the only thing that could happen, is you overdrill the inlet port on the side of the tensioner, and you will overfill the cap on the tensioner and notice a leak. You cant possibly overpressurize the tensioner and snap the chain with my method.
I dont know what IP did to the tensioner, but a monkey could figure it out in 3 mins if they just disassemble it. I doubt they can patent any sort of modification to an existing design, and charging a ton of money for a tensioner thats less capable than a factory unit is just asking for trouble.
Thats my 2 cents. Need any tensioner help, PM me.
Later dave
Which makes me feel good.
I have alot on my plate and so i havent really "offered" the solution.
Most of what i have found, is already known. but......
It seems the number 1 problem is oil volume to the setup.
Over 2 years ago i began modifying the body of the tensioner by drilling the oil inlet port. I doubled its size, to .060" (thou of an inch.)
I simply retension the springs (stretch) and reassemble. I then have the person switch from shitty mobil1, which is what almost all the problem cars have, to valvoline 10/40.
Thus far i have not had one tensioner issue reoccur. And i have probably 25 out there.
There is an oil jet bolt in the end of the tensioner, it decides what volume of oil gets to the worm gear. So the only thing that could happen, is you overdrill the inlet port on the side of the tensioner, and you will overfill the cap on the tensioner and notice a leak. You cant possibly overpressurize the tensioner and snap the chain with my method.
I dont know what IP did to the tensioner, but a monkey could figure it out in 3 mins if they just disassemble it. I doubt they can patent any sort of modification to an existing design, and charging a ton of money for a tensioner thats less capable than a factory unit is just asking for trouble.
Thats my 2 cents. Need any tensioner help, PM me.
Later dave
So Does a 3mm head gasket add slack to the timing chaing. Thus causing all these problems? Or are the two not related? My friend is looking at going turbo'ed and doesn't wanna blow his motor up cause his timing chain wore out cause of a 3mm gasket.
Originally Posted by Muscle Cars Blow,Jul 28 2010, 08:53 PM
So Does a 3mm head gasket add slack to the timing chaing. Thus causing all these problems? Or are the two not related? My friend is looking at going turbo'ed and doesn't wanna blow his motor up cause his timing chain wore out cause of a 3mm gasket.
Ya, I suggest you tell your friend to stay NA. We wouldn't want his chain to "wear out"!!!! 
Think about it, would adding a spacer create slack? Or tighten the chain? Tighten it of course.
I would assume with a 3mm HG you would be BETTER off with an oem TCT not worse. It's when you remove material (not add) like head milling, that creates slack in the chain which is where you run into problems.
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From: 13851 A Better Way #11D, Garden Grove, CA 92843
Originally Posted by S2oooNvegas,Jul 28 2010, 08:05 PM
So i guess i have the only real solution to this problem, STILL.
Which makes me feel good.
I have alot on my plate and so i havent really "offered" the solution.
Most of what i have found, is already known. but......
It seems the number 1 problem is oil volume to the setup.
Over 2 years ago i began modifying the body of the tensioner by drilling the oil inlet port. I doubled its size, to .060" (thou of an inch.)
I simply retension the springs (stretch) and reassemble. I then have the person switch from shitty mobil1, which is what almost all the problem cars have, to valvoline 10/40.
Thus far i have not had one tensioner issue reoccur. And i have probably 25 out there.
There is an oil jet bolt in the end of the tensioner, it decides what volume of oil gets to the worm gear. So the only thing that could happen, is you overdrill the inlet port on the side of the tensioner, and you will overfill the cap on the tensioner and notice a leak. You cant possibly overpressurize the tensioner and snap the chain with my method.
I dont know what IP did to the tensioner, but a monkey could figure it out in 3 mins if they just disassemble it. I doubt they can patent any sort of modification to an existing design, and charging a ton of money for a tensioner thats less capable than a factory unit is just asking for trouble.
Thats my 2 cents. Need any tensioner help, PM me.
Later dave
Which makes me feel good.
I have alot on my plate and so i havent really "offered" the solution.
Most of what i have found, is already known. but......
It seems the number 1 problem is oil volume to the setup.
Over 2 years ago i began modifying the body of the tensioner by drilling the oil inlet port. I doubled its size, to .060" (thou of an inch.)
I simply retension the springs (stretch) and reassemble. I then have the person switch from shitty mobil1, which is what almost all the problem cars have, to valvoline 10/40.
Thus far i have not had one tensioner issue reoccur. And i have probably 25 out there.
There is an oil jet bolt in the end of the tensioner, it decides what volume of oil gets to the worm gear. So the only thing that could happen, is you overdrill the inlet port on the side of the tensioner, and you will overfill the cap on the tensioner and notice a leak. You cant possibly overpressurize the tensioner and snap the chain with my method.
I dont know what IP did to the tensioner, but a monkey could figure it out in 3 mins if they just disassemble it. I doubt they can patent any sort of modification to an existing design, and charging a ton of money for a tensioner thats less capable than a factory unit is just asking for trouble.
Thats my 2 cents. Need any tensioner help, PM me.
Later dave
Originally Posted by juntuned,Jul 28 2010, 09:45 PM
Ya, I suggest you tell your friend to stay NA. We wouldn't want his chain to "wear out"!!!! 
Think about it, would adding a spacer create slack? Or tighten the chain? Tighten it of course.
I would assume with a 3mm HG you would be BETTER off with an oem TCT not worse. It's when you remove material (not add) like head milling, that creates slack in the chain which is where you run into problems.
but he told me 3mm was thinner then the stock head gasket. Which would in fact create slack. Now if 3mm is thicker then putting this in would of course add to the tension. Which to me doesn't make sense to put a 3mm gasket and increase the combustion chamber size when your going to add FI to the motor. Seeing as most people reduce combustion chamber size at the time of going FI usually with Low Compression Pistioins. But hey I'm a domestic guy and maybe things are done differently over here.
Originally Posted by Muscle Cars Blow,Jul 29 2010, 07:23 AM
Was asking for my friend, no need to be banging your head on a wall
but he told me 3mm was thinner then the stock head gasket. Which would in fact create slack. Now if 3mm is thicker then putting this in would of course add to the tension. Which to me doesn't make sense to put a 3mm gasket and increase the combustion chamber size when your going to add FI to the motor. Seeing as most people reduce combustion chamber size at the time of going FI usually with Low Compression Pistioins. But hey I'm a domestic guy and maybe things are done differently over here.
but he told me 3mm was thinner then the stock head gasket. Which would in fact create slack. Now if 3mm is thicker then putting this in would of course add to the tension. Which to me doesn't make sense to put a 3mm gasket and increase the combustion chamber size when your going to add FI to the motor. Seeing as most people reduce combustion chamber size at the time of going FI usually with Low Compression Pistioins. But hey I'm a domestic guy and maybe things are done differently over here.
Originally Posted by NaturalAspirations,Jul 29 2010, 08:00 AM
Low compression pistons increase the open area in a combustion chamber ( less dome less volume) this makes preignition less likely. The thicker HG increases cylinder volume ( specificaly reducing the quench area ) while running the factory high comp pistons. I think you just got confused.


