Inlinepro Tubular Manifold
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From: London, England
Originally Posted by flexer,Oct 2 2006, 10:48 PM
#2. Go with Lovefab Mini-me and relize it is a custom set-up and will require babying, but you will smoke a inline pro car all day long at lower boost levels.
Just look at the evidence. Inline pro cars on avg make 300 horse at 8 psi of boost. Avg Lovefab car makes around 340-360 on 8 psi. Once you start driving a real "Tuner" car with custom set-ups........its like driving a ferrari. There performance is breathe taking, but they require alot of TLC and watching over.
Just look at the evidence. Inline pro cars on avg make 300 horse at 8 psi of boost. Avg Lovefab car makes around 340-360 on 8 psi. Once you start driving a real "Tuner" car with custom set-ups........its like driving a ferrari. There performance is breathe taking, but they require alot of TLC and watching over.
the reason the lovefab kit puts out more whp at 8psi compared to the inline kit is because the lovefab kit is still running stock compression while the inline is running lower compression.....
lower compression = safer, but less power... so you boost higher to compensate...... you're also able to run more "total" boost at this lower compression then you can on stock compression.....
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Sellersburg, IN
Originally Posted by blue03s2k,Oct 3 2006, 09:20 AM
this has got to be the dumbest thing i've read on this forum in awhile.......
the reason the lovefab kit puts out more whp at 8psi compared to the inline kit is because the lovefab kit is still running stock compression while the inline is running lower compression.....
lower compression = safer, but less power... so you boost higher to compensate...... you're also able to run more "total" boost at this lower compression then you can on stock compression.....
the reason the lovefab kit puts out more whp at 8psi compared to the inline kit is because the lovefab kit is still running stock compression while the inline is running lower compression.....
lower compression = safer, but less power... so you boost higher to compensate...... you're also able to run more "total" boost at this lower compression then you can on stock compression.....
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Originally Posted by flexer,Oct 2 2006, 10:48 PM
Those looking for big numbers like yourself have two options.
#1. Go with a mass produced no problem item like the inlinepro set up and get your Numbers from High boost and heavy strain.
#1. Go with a mass produced no problem item like the inlinepro set up and get your Numbers from High boost and heavy strain.
So you think putting 8 or 9 pounds on the stock motor @ 11:1 is less strain than putting 12-14 on a motor with 9:1?
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From: Springfield, VA
i personally STILL believe its the TURBO that makes the power. We had another s2k at the shop before with a lovefab setup, and it made the same power we made with a gt35r on it. Give or take about 1% on both manifolds, due to variables like temperature and what not, but the turbo makes the power.
There is a local with a Lovefab kit being put on. Hopefully we'll be able to tune it, and see how it works on low boost settings, and see how it is on our own.
believe me, if we didn't have to make a tubular on our race s2k, we wouldn't. Our b-series SFWD race car, just laid down a new record at e-town 9.47 at 158mph with the 802 WHP with our off the shelf b-series manifold.
They are the same designed manifolds for our b series, k series, and F series. We know it works !
There is a local with a Lovefab kit being put on. Hopefully we'll be able to tune it, and see how it works on low boost settings, and see how it is on our own.
believe me, if we didn't have to make a tubular on our race s2k, we wouldn't. Our b-series SFWD race car, just laid down a new record at e-town 9.47 at 158mph with the 802 WHP with our off the shelf b-series manifold.
They are the same designed manifolds for our b series, k series, and F series. We know it works !
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From: The HS that is NoVA
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Oct 3 2006, 09:29 AM
You have that all wrong my friend. Whether you lower compression and up the boost or just leave it stock at a given boost, your over-all or total engine compression will be the same in the end. The only reason to lower compression is to bring the boost up to where the turbo can run more efficiently.
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Effective compression is the sum of the static compression, plus the additional compression added to the cylinder by a turbo or super charger, or any other forced induction tool for that matter.
Effective compression is defined by the following formula:
E = C((B / 14.7) + 1)
Where E= Effective Compression, B= boost psi, and C= Static compression. Also remember that 14.7 is equal to 1 bar of boost.
E = 11((9 / 14.7) + 1)
E = 11((.61) + 1)
E = 11(1.61)
E = 17.71:1
So the effective compression for 9psi of boost on the stock 11:1 compression motor is 17.71:1.
E = 9((14 / 14.7) + 1)
E = 9((.95) + 1)
E = 9(1.95)
E = 17.55:1
So the effective compression for 14psi of boost on a motor with 9:1 compression is 17.55:1.
Hmm....
I'm making right around 400whp at 14psi with the InlinePRO kit/3mm head gasket on pump gas. I have seen several Lovefab kits making more power on less boost, but with no attempt made to reduce the stock 11:1 compression ratio, and I believe the higher WHP numbers are in part due to having a higher effective compression ratio.
I have no doubt that the tubular mani is more efficient, but I prefer less problems.
Effective compression is defined by the following formula:
E = C((B / 14.7) + 1)
Where E= Effective Compression, B= boost psi, and C= Static compression. Also remember that 14.7 is equal to 1 bar of boost.
E = 11((9 / 14.7) + 1)
E = 11((.61) + 1)
E = 11(1.61)
E = 17.71:1
So the effective compression for 9psi of boost on the stock 11:1 compression motor is 17.71:1.
E = 9((14 / 14.7) + 1)
E = 9((.95) + 1)
E = 9(1.95)
E = 17.55:1
So the effective compression for 14psi of boost on a motor with 9:1 compression is 17.55:1.
Hmm....
I'm making right around 400whp at 14psi with the InlinePRO kit/3mm head gasket on pump gas. I have seen several Lovefab kits making more power on less boost, but with no attempt made to reduce the stock 11:1 compression ratio, and I believe the higher WHP numbers are in part due to having a higher effective compression ratio.
I have no doubt that the tubular mani is more efficient, but I prefer less problems.
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From: London, England
Originally Posted by Spoolin,Oct 3 2006, 09:29 AM
You have that all wrong my friend. Whether you lower compression and up the boost or just leave it stock at a given boost, your over-all or total engine compression will be the same in the end. The only reason to lower compression is to bring the boost up to where the turbo can run more efficiently.
guess you don't like to read the whole post....
"lower compression = safer, but less power... so you boost higher to compensate.... "
and this is the reason at 8psi lovefab gets est: 350 while 8psi inline gets est: 310..... but you COMPENSATE for the lower compression by upping the boost to achieve the same power output...
so there's nothing wrong with my post... 
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More food for thought:
Low static compression / High boost
Tuning plays a big key in all boosted setups. As the static compression ratio gets higher, it gets harder to tune. Lack of proper tuning leads to detonation, which leads to blown head gaskets, thrown rods, and cracked cylinder walls. Since this setup involves low static compression ratios, it is easy to tune. Just crank up the boost a little more to make up for the effective compression that is lost from the lower static compression. This is the easiest way to get a car boosted with the least amount of tuning. This set up, however, lacks in the low end torque department due to the fact that it relies on the turbo for most of its power.
High static compression / Low boost
This setup is harder to tune than the above setup, but at the same time, its output is overall higher, due to the higher static compression. This eliminates a lot of the low end torque/turbo lag problems that the above setup has, due to the fact that the higher static compression creates more power from the engine, and relies less on the source of the forced induction to create the higher effective compression level. Proper turbo size also plays a factor but, for the sakes of argument, we will simply discuss the motor's properties.
Medium static compression / Medium boost
This setup takes the best and the worst features from both sides. It will give a little more bottom end, but makes it a little more difficult to tune. A lot of people choose this route for VTEC engines. Dropping the compression down to say 9.5:1 and running around 9psi creates this medium zone that most people who boost tend to fit in.
Google is your friend
Low static compression / High boost
Tuning plays a big key in all boosted setups. As the static compression ratio gets higher, it gets harder to tune. Lack of proper tuning leads to detonation, which leads to blown head gaskets, thrown rods, and cracked cylinder walls. Since this setup involves low static compression ratios, it is easy to tune. Just crank up the boost a little more to make up for the effective compression that is lost from the lower static compression. This is the easiest way to get a car boosted with the least amount of tuning. This set up, however, lacks in the low end torque department due to the fact that it relies on the turbo for most of its power.
High static compression / Low boost
This setup is harder to tune than the above setup, but at the same time, its output is overall higher, due to the higher static compression. This eliminates a lot of the low end torque/turbo lag problems that the above setup has, due to the fact that the higher static compression creates more power from the engine, and relies less on the source of the forced induction to create the higher effective compression level. Proper turbo size also plays a factor but, for the sakes of argument, we will simply discuss the motor's properties.
Medium static compression / Medium boost
This setup takes the best and the worst features from both sides. It will give a little more bottom end, but makes it a little more difficult to tune. A lot of people choose this route for VTEC engines. Dropping the compression down to say 9.5:1 and running around 9psi creates this medium zone that most people who boost tend to fit in.
Google is your friend