IP stage 2 progress and help thread
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: USA
Originally Posted by D1sclaimer,Oct 3 2010, 08:23 PM
No parts store could get me either plug this weekend. I had a set of autolite (long story why I have them) sitting around so I gapped them and tried them out. Same issue with cutting in and out.
I decided to take about a degree of timing out for positive MAP pressure and richen it a tad. That cured it. No more cutting in and out at all.
I did have it cut out pretty bad later this night, but it was the coldest I've driven the car yet and before it was getting really close to boost cut. I'm guessing it was boost cut and wasn't logging as I was driving home.
I decided to take about a degree of timing out for positive MAP pressure and richen it a tad. That cured it. No more cutting in and out at all.
I did have it cut out pretty bad later this night, but it was the coldest I've driven the car yet and before it was getting really close to boost cut. I'm guessing it was boost cut and wasn't logging as I was driving home.
As for the plugs what are you running? I have found that 0.025" seems to be the sweet spot.
You ready to try out my Ignition system?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nebraska
I have it set up for boost by speed, but haven't looked at boost feedback yet. I figure I should now since thats an issue.
They are Autolite 3922 plugs. I gapped them at .022 since the .024 was cutting out. They crosslisted with the NGK 4644 plugs (stock heat range, copper, with resistor).
I think over winter I will also look into CDI ignitions. I think your system uses LS1 parts right?
Do you think it was cutting out because the ignition or because it was a little too aggressive? Since I added fuel and it still doesn't cut out, I would think it was just a little too aggressive.
They are Autolite 3922 plugs. I gapped them at .022 since the .024 was cutting out. They crosslisted with the NGK 4644 plugs (stock heat range, copper, with resistor).
I think over winter I will also look into CDI ignitions. I think your system uses LS1 parts right?
Do you think it was cutting out because the ignition or because it was a little too aggressive? Since I added fuel and it still doesn't cut out, I would think it was just a little too aggressive.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nebraska
Almost done with the ignition. I hid the ignition box under the cowl next to the cabin filter. It seemed to be a good spot out of the heat and covered so it wont get wet. Instead of splicing into the factory harness, I bought an AEM patch harness for the s2000 and spliced into that. The AEM harness is a lot better quality than my Boomslang VAFC harness was so thumbs up to them. With the patch harness, I can change back to the stock coils in about 10 minutes by removing it and changing the settings in the EMS back to the stock coils.
A word of advise if you switch to a CDI ignition. I skipped the part in the manual where it said to verify timing after you change the dwell settings in the AEM. By switching to the CDI ignition, timing was retarded around 11 degrees so far I've found. It was hard to start and sounded like a WRX when it ran, but when a friend suggested that timing was thrown off, I used the "verify timing" procedure in the EMS to advance timing about 11 degrees to pull similar vacuum that it pulled last year. No more WRX sound. I'm gonna hook up a spark plug wire to the coil and timing light up to it tonight to verify it is on. With the COP CDI coils, you can't get a signal for the timing light like you can the stock coils. You need to put a spark plug wire in between the plug and coil and hook up the pickup off the wire.
Getting tuned at Full Blown on the 26th. I'll be driving 7 hours on this new ignition setup and taking with my stock coils just in case.
A word of advise if you switch to a CDI ignition. I skipped the part in the manual where it said to verify timing after you change the dwell settings in the AEM. By switching to the CDI ignition, timing was retarded around 11 degrees so far I've found. It was hard to start and sounded like a WRX when it ran, but when a friend suggested that timing was thrown off, I used the "verify timing" procedure in the EMS to advance timing about 11 degrees to pull similar vacuum that it pulled last year. No more WRX sound. I'm gonna hook up a spark plug wire to the coil and timing light up to it tonight to verify it is on. With the COP CDI coils, you can't get a signal for the timing light like you can the stock coils. You need to put a spark plug wire in between the plug and coil and hook up the pickup off the wire.
Getting tuned at Full Blown on the 26th. I'll be driving 7 hours on this new ignition setup and taking with my stock coils just in case.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nebraska
Manifold is not coated. Before summer hits, I was planning on getting a heat shield made.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
From: Nebraska
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2590907
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,19383.0.html
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=207837
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2849853
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,27290.0.html
These are just a handful of the AEM Twin Fire threads.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,507
Likes: 51
From: Sellersburg, IN
Hasnt AEM already fixed all the problems?
One guy here http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2849853 said to use the M&W pro14 box with the Honda OEM coils. Will that work instead of the AEM coils? That would be sweet if we could just get the M&W pro14 box and just hook it up to run with our OEM coils.
One guy here http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2849853 said to use the M&W pro14 box with the Honda OEM coils. Will that work instead of the AEM coils? That would be sweet if we could just get the M&W pro14 box and just hook it up to run with our OEM coils.
