I have 2 questions now.

1. I noticed that my 10AN oil return line is grinding into the cross beam in the engine bay and shavings of the hose can be seen. I have not had any issues with oil backing up. Can I run an 8AN oil return line to resolve the issue? Otherwise, I guess I can try to get a SS braided return line too if best. Opinions?

2. The other day, I had to shut the car off after being driven hard and wasn't able to let it idle for a couple of minutes like it should have. Some smoke started coming from the engine bay as the oil was cooking in the turbo. It drove fine after. My blanket looks burnt on some parts on the bottom and my turbine and manifold changed colors a little bit. Is there anything I should check and do you think any damage may have occured with the seals?

 

1. One option is to get some large diameter heat shrink and shrink it over the braided line. I did this when I built my lines because the braided part was resting on the steering rack motor and I didnt want them to chafe. This was on my relocation lines BTW that are -8. I also am using a -8 drain line into the girdle that has been this way for 7 years on JB turbo's and I have never had a problem. Your other option is to go with the -8 drain line if youre going into the girdle or the drivers side front of the pan up high.

2. You could have possibly coaked up the turbo a bit but youll just have to give it time to see if there is any damage or not. Its a 50/50 gamble, just give it time and hopefully you cam e out on the good 50 side.

 

Use a larger dia wire loom to cover the drain line. I use this on my -10 oil relocation lines that rub the cross beam and it works great. Use wire ties around it to hold it in place.
How are things with the kit? Heat on other parts etc.. I'm thinking of upgrading my inline kit to this manifold.

 

I like it so far. It seems like a solid piece. It puts out a lot of heat though. I wish I would have heat coated it and probably will in the future. I have the downpipe wrapped in header wrap. I really want to relocate the AC lines and make a heat shield in between the manifold and battery. Currently, I just have a 12x36 sheet of the DEI heat sheathing in between the battery/fuse box and the manifold and I'm still weary on heat. I have the AC lines wrapped in a heat sleave and so are all of my vacuum lines now. I also noticed that I melted the vtec solenoid oil pressure sensor plastic connector so I guess I'll thread in a bolt and take the sensor out. The vtec solenoid oil pressure sensor is pretty much touching the down pipe so I should have expected that to happen.

The Turbosmart 50mm wastegate holds boost perfectly with no creep. The 5 Star T-bolts that I replaced the crappy worm drive hose clamps with are holding fine. It runs and drives great if you don't mind a decent amount of lag. I didn't realize that the same turbo in T3 and T4 would vary as much in regards to spool. A billet 6262 would be more optimal with the manifold and drivability if you can get that in a T4 flange. I'm not a fan of the intercooler per say because of the shear size of it and fitament with either cutting your frame rails or modifying the intercooler itself.

Overall, it was a lot of work, but I am pleased and happy with it.

 

Thanks for your review on the kit! Yeah (if) I change to to this manifold, I plan on running a smaller turbo than what you got for sure. I think even a 6262 with T4 would still be too large for what I want.

 

With this colder weather, I think I am getting spark plug blowout. Its happened a few times while cold but in between on warmer days, it runs perfectly fine. I thought it was boost cut at first because initially it was creeping a little high, but logs tonight show no creep with it cutting out at about 18psi and up. It first started out with little hiccups and now its popping. I will pull my plugs tomorrow as its a bit hot now and will look at them. I know on the garage floor, theres a lot of carbon from the exhaust.

Here is a picture of a log on a few gear pull

Any thoughts?

 

Okay, I pulled the plugs today and am a little puzzled. The plugs I am using were recommended by Mase as I wanted to use copper ones. They are the iridium BKR8EIX (NGK 2668)

1-3 are fine. The timing mark is a little aggressive, but I ran nitrous with the timing mark pretty much on the threads so I think it should be fine on E85.







Now to cylinder 4. It looks like it was running pretty hot and is wet fowled (the wet fowling could be caused from it not igniting all the fuel it was trying to burn when it wasn't igniting it.)

 

Have you thought about using the 7 Heat Range again?

 

Maybe I will.

For now, I will buy 1 new iridium plug, throw that in, switch the coil packs on 3 and 4. Pull them after a few hundred miles and see if anything changes.

 

No parts store could get me either plug this weekend. I had a set of autolite (long story why I have them) sitting around so I gapped them and tried them out. Same issue with cutting in and out.

I decided to take about a degree of timing out for positive MAP pressure and richen it a tad. That cured it. No more cutting in and out at all.

I did have it cut out pretty bad later this night, but it was the coldest I've driven the car yet and before it was getting really close to boost cut. I'm guessing it was boost cut and wasn't logging as I was driving home.